School me on 22 LR ammunition

[Potatohead]

Top o' the mornin' to you fellas.
I'm just getting into 22, as my dad and I went in together on an SR22. I'd like for you guys to sum up the brands/types and what they are known for so if I ever do have a choice, I know what's good and bad and fast and slow, light and heavy..

I heard a guy reviewing an SR22 and he said "these are CCI stingers, a little bit faster ammo" so I know those are on the faster side. I'm also interested in knowing a little about the weight in grains, are the light ones more for pistol and such, and is it just the same as other ammo, like do stingers come in several weights, or is each brand the same every time, like stingers are 40gr only...etc. Or maybe there are just a couple different weights.

List form would be fine, example below:

-Stingers-good ammo-come in 40 and 60 gr-on the fast side-8$ 50ct
-Thunderbolts-suck-come in 30 gr-slow-4$ 50ct

Or however you want to relay the info.

fyi I had several FTEs with Winchester Super X the first time out, like they were barely cycling the slide. Ironically, in the review I spoke about, Winchester Super X was the most accurate the fella fired out of several brands, with no failures. (made me wonder if he was shooting a different weight).

I could just compare boxes at the store...but as we know, that is not quite possible at the moment. I also wouldnt mind if you put the price that you are comfortable paying for each...

Also, I finally see what all the fuss is about with the 22 LR. This thing is a blast to shoot, I could not quit feeding it while making a can jump from about 15-20 yds. Even after packing my gear into the car, came out for a curtain call and went through another box.

I have on hand: 40gr Aguila,Blazer 40gr, SuperX, Reminton golden bullet high vel (dont see grains anywhere), an ancient looking box of Western t22, and an even more ancient looking long tray of Hi Power 100s. Price tag 2.37 from Big K, whatever that is Looks like that one may have came out of my great grandfathers sock drawer.

Any and all comments are welcome. -PH

 

[tyeo098]

Everyone has their pet favourites. Go buy some and try it out.
(If you can find it lol)

 

[Potatohead]

Yea, I was able to buy 2 whole boxes of this aguila yesterday at Academy. 2 box limit.

 

[ford8nr]

22 ammo comes in 3 primary weights 32, 36 and 40gr and several speeds. Standard/sub sonic 1050fps, high velocity 1250fps and 'hyper' velocity above 1300fps. Most semi auto pistols work best with the High Velocity stuff. CCI MiniMags being a consistent choice. Every gun is different with 22 ammo, rifles seeming more so then handguns. If you get FTF's in a semi auto pistol make sure your NOT absorbing recoil through your wrists/arms. 22 ammo doesn't have much recoil and in a new pistol you need all of it to operate the slide. My wife's Ruger MKIII will shoot sub sonics reliably if you don't let the muzzle flip. Ammo prices vary CCI Blazers (which a lot of people like) can be had for .05/rd, MiniMags .08, Wolf Match .11

 

[hso]

We've referenced some test sites that have compared various .22lr types. Search various threads on .22lr (not in General) to see if you can find those links.

Here's one extensive test - http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/8711043/m/9871088921

Here's a terminal ballistic gel test - http://www.us-shooter.com/high-velocity-22-lr-ammo-test-ballistic-gel/

 

[Sunray]

Hi. There's Standard velocity that is also called Target. There's regular High Velocity ammo and the hyper-velocity stuff like Stingers. Plus there are Hollow points and Solids. Weights are 30 to 40 grains. The bullet weight has nothing whatever to do with the firearm used.
The Remington 'Gold Bullet' stuff comes as 36 or 40 grains. The 36 runs at 1600 or 1622 fps. 1500 or 1522 fps for the 40's. Hyper-velocity ammo. Yellow Jackets run at 1700+ with a 33 grain truncated cone bullet. Fabulous stuff for hunting if your rifle shoots 'em well.
When Hyper-velocity ammo(regular HV ammo runs around 1200 + FPS) first came out, long ago, some of the guys who hung around the gun shop I was working in then tested the 3 brands available(Stingers, Expeditors from Winchester and Yellow Jackets) on a regular GI issue helmet. The first two penetrated one side. The Yellow Jacket went right through the hard hat.
With ALL.22 LR firearms you must try a box of as many brands as you can to find the ammo your firearm shoots best and in the case of a semi-auto(like your SR22), also cycles the action. .22's are just like that.

 

[Furncliff]

I think you'll find that there will be one consistent answer when it comes to .22LR ammo. ...."every gun likes something different ".

My most accurate target pistols like CCI Standard Velocity. Also good are the pistol target ammo's from RWS and SK. This stuff is pricy though ~ $60/brick.

A few pistols like the .45 to .22 conversions like faster ammo.

I like all of the ammo that's made by Federal, that includes CCI and American eagle.

New to the game is "Norma Tac 22" I really like this stuff for practice. But it might be $$, but I'm finding it more available than some others .

I don't buy anything that says Remington on it. Just personal preference.

I mail order all my .22 ammo.

 

[akarguy]

If you are shooting an SR22, just shoot whatever you can find. The pistol is extremely accurate and you won't see a huge difference between bulk ammo around $.05-.05cpr or good stuff for >$.10cpr. SR22s eat anything. I've run 1000rds of blazer and a couple hundred rounds of federal bulk and minimags- no difference really especially for plinking. I assume youare not using this for bullseye ccompetitions where there can be some differences with these ammo types. And to be honest, part if me is thinking, "GREAAAT, another .22 eating machine," LOL

 

[chicharrones]

If you haven't seen the now often suggested source of ammo used in different guns, check out http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/22.html

It won't cover everything, but it will give a good basic understanding of some things ammo related.

Regarding CCI Stingers in auto pistols, it depends on how well the cartridge is supported in the chamber if they work well or not. In my Neos or Firestorm, they work well and throw nice fireballs. In my Bobcat, the feed ramp goes into the chamber a bit which causes a fired stinger case to deform into that feed ramp. That deformation causes the empty cartridge to fail to extract almost every time.

 

[Potatohead]

Great info so far. Thanks. Sunray, when you say yellow jacket, are you referring to Remington "golden bullet" or something different?

Awesome info again everyone, thanks.

 

[Potatohead]

If you are shooting an SR22, just shoot whatever you can find. The pistol is extremely accurate and you won't see a huge difference between bulk ammo around $.05-.05cpr or good stuff for >$.10cpr. SR22s eat anything. I've run 1000rds of blazer and a couple hundred rounds of federal bulk and minimags- no difference really especially for plinking. I assume youare not using this for bullseye ccompetitions where there can be some differences with these ammo types. And to be honest, part if me is thinking, "GREAAAT, another .22 eating machine," LOL

LOL, I hear you. The world needs another 22 shooter right? I was impressed with the accuracy. I was nailing a can shot after shot from what I think was a pretty good distance.. I was a bit surprised.



Great links everyone.

 

[Potatohead]

I was looking at HSO's link, and wonder...what causes the inconsistency of 22LR, that's just the nature of rimfire?

 

[medalguy]

Prices? No idea as I refuse to pay the scalpers' prices. I'm still shooting ammo I bought 15 years ago.

Basically as stated every firearm is different but generally you get what you pay for. Premium ammo usually shoots better. Think Stingers

Also be sure your firearm is reasonably clean and well lubricated. .22 can be pretty dirty pretty quickly.

 

[Potatohead]

Cleaned it before and after. Cleaned the barrel, though I didnt get a fully clean patch to come out...Does that fall into the "not clean enough" category?


Boy, the Aguila in HSO's link really put a whoopin on that gel.

 

[hso]

What inconsistency are you referring to, PH?

If you're asking why do group rankings change at different ranges you'll find that some ammunition will stabilize at different ranges and others will maintain or loose stability. You'll see the same with center-fire ammunition.

That's why you have to group at different ranges with different ammunition to see what groups best at what range.

 

[Potatohead]

Referring mainly to the author of one of those links opening statements, and stuff Ive read here..nothing really specifically that I saw with the groups or anything. And your statement above makes sense.


Do you guys think I got the barrel clean enough? The patches definitely got cleaner...but still some foul looking patches. Are they supposed to come out spotless? Ive always just ran the brush and some patches through my centerfires (mostly fmj), but want to make sure Im doing it right with lead.


Just checked my email and saw on Yahoo where the nuts in Iraq beheaded a journalist. Turns my stomach.

 

[Doc7]

I don't worry about a 22 barrel getting spotless. My Marlin 60 manual says not to even clean the bore.

Try every box of ammo you can find and shoot what works best. Reviews aren't very helpful in 22lr.

 

[Potatohead]

Reviews aren't very helpful in 22lr.

Starting to sound like you may have a point there.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

22 ammo comes in 3 primary weights 32, 36 and 40gr and several speeds. Standard/sub sonic 1050fps, high velocity 1250fps and 'hyper' velocity above 1300fps. Most semi auto pistols work best with the High Velocity stuff. CCI MiniMags being a consistent choice. Every gun is different with 22 ammo, rifles seeming more so then handguns. If you get FTF's in a semi auto pistol make sure your NOT absorbing recoil through your wrists/arms. 22 ammo doesn't have much recoil and in a new pistol you need all of it to operate the slide. My wife's Ruger MKIII will shoot sub sonics reliably if you don't let the muzzle flip. Ammo prices vary CCI Blazers (which a lot of people like) can be had for .05/rd, MiniMags .08, Wolf Match .11

Very good advice.

Standard velocity/subsonic ammunition is special purpose ammo:

• For older guns made before about 1934 and not rated for high velocity ammo.
• For outdoor rifle matches -- the high velocity ammo sheds velocity as it goes downrange, and when it drops below the speed of sound there ia a moment of instability
• For suppressed weapons

High velocity ammunition is the standard nowadays and will function modern semi-automatic weapons best.

Hypervelocity ammunition is in my experience, often inferior in accuracy to good high velocity ammo.

 

[Potatohead]

Good info Vern, thanks.

Was this:

If you get FTF's in a semi auto pistol make sure your NOT absorbing recoil through your wrists/arms.

a nice way of saying, "dont limp wrist it wus"?

Or just try not to "give" at all?

 

[Doc7]

Very good advice.



Standard velocity/subsonic ammunition is special purpose ammo:

• For older guns made before about 1934 and not rated for high velocity ammo.
  
• For outdoor rifle matches -- the high velocity ammo sheds velocity as it goes downrange, and when it drops below the speed of sound there ia a moment of instability
  
• For suppressed weapons
  

High velocity ammunition is the standard nowadays and will function modern semi-automatic weapons best.



Hypervelocity ammunition is in my experience, often inferior in accuracy to good high velocity ammo.

My Marlin 60 groups 70% of the size of most high velocity ammo with Standard velocity CCI round nose. So I stick to Sv.

 

[CB900F]

Potatohead;

You could buy two .22's, same brand, model, and consecutive serial number's. First gun likes "this" ammo and gun number two hates it & likes "that" ammo. That being said, usually target specific ammo is more expensive and gives better groups. Unless you are going to get into one of the accuracy competitions, some of that pretty pricey stuff isn't worth it for general use.

There are manufacturer's specs for chamber dimensions, .22lr included. Depending on the brand bought & intended use of the gun, there can, and will, be variations within those specs. You will run across the terms "match chamber", and "Benz chamber", they refer to specific variations within the specs. Tighter chambers usually shoot more consistently.

If you go to a match near you, ask to see the visible variations in some of the .22 ammo being used. Most competitor's are glad to help out & pass on knowledge as long as you don't interfere with the match itself. Some ammo will have a tiny dimple in the base of the brass case, some will be a lubricated lead bullet, other's will be lead but very little to no lubrication. There will be copper washed bullets, hollowpoint bullets, solid round nose, and truncated cone bullets. And the guy shooting that particular stuff is doing so because he thinks it works best in his gun. Some of the shooters will tell you that they've done an ammo testing regimen that makes a satellite launch look like an amateur effort.

Have fun learning!

900F

 

[Potatohead]

LOL, thanks CB.

You could buy two .22's, same brand, model, and consecutive serial number's. First gun likes "this" ammo and gun number two hates it & likes "that" ammo.

That's wild. Sounds about right too, from everything Im hearing.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Quote:
If you get FTF's in a semi auto pistol make sure your NOT absorbing recoil through your wrists/arms.

Was this a nice way of saying, "dont limp wrist it wus"?

Or just try not to "give" at all?

Centerfire handguns are mostly recoil-operated. The slide comes back on the rails of the frame, and unlocks the barrel from the slide. If you allow the frame to recoil too much, it nullifies the action.

Rimfire handguns are mostly blow-back and will function even if not held firmly.

 

[chicharrones]

Centerfire handguns are mostly recoil-operated. The slide comes back on the rails of the frame, and unlocks the barrel from the slide. If you allow the frame to recoil too much, it nullifies the action.

Rimfire handguns are mostly blow-back and will function even if not held firmly.

I think that depends on the type of rimfire pistol. For full size rimfire pistols with light recoil springs and more slide mass, that might be true. For the compact and subcompact rimfire pistols that compensate for lack of slide mass with a heavier spring, they are fairly easy to limp wrist.

My Beretta Bobcat and my Bersa/Firestorm are two rimfires that do not tolerate a loose grip or a relaxed wrist.