Scope Ring Question

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Whacked

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OK, my use of scopes is rather limited.
First was a Tasco that I put on a Marlin 795. Worked and recently replaced with Tech-Sights.
Bushnell premounted on a Savage
Rebranded Ruger on a Ruger Air Hawk. This scope blew up and I bought a Leapers/UTG 4x AO

Question:
I had to shim the scope rings for the Leapers to get it sighted in at 10 feet.
Used 6 soda can thickness. Dovetail rings and I didnt see any way to shim other than inside the rings.
I could reduce to 5 thickness. 4 is not enough as then adjustment is maxed and still shooting low
Shims are all on rear ring.

Everything is snug and after 100rds, still holding up. scope tube isnt crimped or damaged.
Should I just roll with it? get different rings? (these came with the scope)
not sure if its worth lapping as its a $100 air rifle and $60 scope.

Question/Observation
Looking for a scope to mount on my Traditions Vortek Strikerfire. The scope rings for the most part have 1 screw per side and one screw to mount to base.
The Leapers rings has 2. 2 to mount to dovetail and 2 per side on clamp.

Are rifle rings really that much stronger thus only require 1 screw?
It just seems odd that a air rifle scope ring has double the screw count than a rifle scope ring, especially since those rifle rings can be mounted on a magnum powerhouse centerfire with significant recoil.
Take a look at rifle scope rings, they are getting very pricey before you can see more than 1 screw. Then go to pyramidair and see that their cheapo rings a double set of screws.
Just seems weird to me.
 
If I need to shim I use a one piece base and shim it, not the rings. Shimming a ring or a front or rear base puts stress on the scope. You may not have the option of a one piece base though.
 
Am I reading this correctly?

"I had to shim the scope rings for the Leapers to get it sighted in at 10 feet."

This may be your issue - do you have access to a range - something with a bit more distance, 50 or 100 yards, maybe?

Mark H.
 
I think I've seen this same post some where before. Either way, some folks don't understand the functional concept of using optics, which are mounted above the barrel a good inch to inch and a half.

That scope will be impossible to adjust for distances beyond 10 feet, if shimmed to function for that close range.

GS
 
To clear things up better.

This is a spring-piston Air Rifle. I didn't buy it to shoot 50+ yards. I have 22LR and centerfires for that.

This is the scope I bought
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Leapers_UTG_4x32_AO_Rifle_Scope_Mil_Dot_Reticle_1_4_MOA_1_Tube_3_8_Rings/4628

This is the air rifle
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/m/Ruger_Air_Hawk_Combo/1504
Its a pretty good springer. Before the stock scope blew up I was getting decent groups and knew I could get better with different pellets and improve my hold.

This is the article I read which sums up countless others I have come across.
http://www.pyramydair.com/article/All_about_scopes_Part_3_April_2005/22

I had to shim just to get to step 2 and ~2.5" low at 10 ft, hence my original post.

10 feet is easy off my front doorstep. Can get 10-15 yards once I finish splitting firewood.
Doubt I'll ever shoot much beyond 30yds. Landlord parked a trailer at only spot I can get 20-30yds so will have to wait for him to move/use it.
99.99% of the time it will be 10-15yds.

I have tightened everything up. checked the air seals, everything is OK. If I shim the air seal that will increase my fps but would rather hit the target.
 
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