Geez, you guys make such a big deal about this stuff.
streetstang67, what you need to do is mount your scope (or have a gunsmith do it) then boresight it (or have a gunsmith do it) to get yourself in the ballpark. Then you go to the range, put up a target at 25 yards, and dial in a nice tight zero at that distance. Then you do basically the same thing at 100, or 150, or 200, or whatever range you think is appropriate for the terrain and conditions where you hunt.
Zeroing the gun at 25 yards won't make it perfect for hunting purposes - what it will do is get the scope close enough that you can then effectively shoot at those 150 yard targets without just kicking up dust. If you still can't put consistent groups in at 150 yards or more, then there may be something wrong with the way your scope is mounted (or it may just be a bad scope) and it's getting knocked off of zero by the recoil of your gun.
Just remember... when it comes to zeroing scopes, the most common mistake I see newbies make is trying to dial things in the wrong direction. You aren't trying to change where the bullet goes. You can't alter that at all. What you're trying to do is make the crosshairs point at the spot where the bullets are already going.
Also remember that it's not smart asking someone else to zero your gun for you - which is another common mistake. Everyone's eye is different in shape and depth, and because of that, everyone's zero is slightly different. It's something you've really got to do for yourself.