Sears 3T/Winchester 190 Issue

[JayZee]

I got a Sears 3T rifle in a trade awhile ago. I ran it a few times and it was flawless. Slowly it started failing to fire. I tore down the rifle completely, pulled the barrel and cleaned it alongside the chamber well. I used to get an occasional failure to go into battery, this was immediately alleviated when I cleaned the rifle as such. Gun probably hadn't been cleaned in decades. Gun has always had FTF here and there. I shoot good and cheap stuff, so it varied. Lately it can't shoot a few rounds without a failure to fire. It has become very unreliable which saddens me as I enjoy the rifle a lot.

Not sure if the gun has been damaged from dry-firing. It has happened once in a while because new shooters with it usually fire it when empty since it has a magazine tube. I can only assume this has damaged my firing pin. The bolt looks like a pain to disassemble, so I haven't touched it.
Anyone got advice on replacing the firing pin?
Contemplating buying a whole new bolt as well.
Could it be the chamber has been peened or damaged?
If so, how could I repair this?

 

[HB]

The barrel is loose. Tighten the barrel nut and lock tite it. Sounds crazy but thats what fixed mine.

 

[Phil70]

I have looked on line and found a Sears model 30 manual that may help you if it is the same
Yes, it can be a little scary to take apart, just watch what your doing.
Something about Winchester 190 about it also

 

[fpgt72]

The barrel is loose. Tighten the barrel nut and lock tite it. Sounds crazy but thats what fixed mine.

+1.....IIRC this is a common failing on these guns...happened to my sons rifle....it was his first gun, he picked it out....even knowing the issues with this model we went for it.

Both good and bad he learned that sometimes used guns have issues, some can be fixed some can't....it introduced him to the wrench.

 

[Ifishsum]

Another +1 for the barrel nut likely being loose. Look at the top where the barrel meets the receiver; if there is any gap at all there's your problem. IIRC you can use a flat blade screwdriver from underneath (action removed from the stock) to tighten the barrel nut which is round with two slots in it.

 

[JayZee]

Thank you all for your responses. I appreciate your patience as well. I had the issue of a loose barrel and should have mentioned that. I think I eliminated it as a possibility. However, I do acknowledge that perhaps the barrel is not seated fully. There are lined groves for the barrel to slide in with. Could I torque it down and remove the wiggle while having the barrel still not seated deep enough? I will tear it down and double check. I patiently use a brass punch to torque or loosen the barrel nut. Carefully and slowly tapping it as it gets snug. I could have it not seated fully yet torqued because it feels solid. It appeared to be perfectly fine.

If I have done the aforementioned AND it still acts up, do my theories of dry fire damaging the bolt/firing pin assembly or peening the chamber somehow warrant investigation? I'll post pictures of the rifle when it's up and running sound. I gave it a rattle can OD green paint on all the metal. Seemed to be suited since this is more of a small game rifle for me. The finish on the rifle was meh, there was pitting on the barrel and the guy just painted/cheap blued over it.. I am doing the barrel last, and will correct this as best I can. It isn't a magazine fed gun, and I bought it intending to shoot shorts as well. Gun will fire, and eject but won't feed a short. Wished it would because they are STUPID quiet. Anyone get shorts to run in similar guns like this? Marlin 60's? Winchester 190's?

 

[boom boom]

The problem with reliable function of .22 shorts in a semi-auto is that the entire recoil, ejection, and feeding system is based on the energy and recoil pulse of the .22LR and cartridge size. Even among .22LR, some rifles simply won't function with lower power rounds. One of the limitations of semi-autos is that the energy generated by the cartridge must be enough to "work" the action and must do so in accordance to its design. Absent tinkering with the recoil system which would probably make it unreliable for .22 LR, you probably can't get it to function with top notch reliability with mild .22 shorts as the energy to work the action is not there. It would work as a single shot though. For example, it is possible to fire a .380 ACP in a 9mm as a one shot but it will not work the action sufficiently as to fire, eject, and reload another. If you want the maximum variety in ammo and reliable function, get a manually operated action (a bolt, lever, or sliding action in rifles or a revolver in pistols). Gas systems have a bit wider range than blowback but to get maximum flexibility requires an adjustable gas block.

However, CCI apparently makes a .22 short that is close to the energy of a .22 LR
https://www.sportsmansguide.com/pro...e-22-short-cphp-27-grain-100-rounds?a=1592306
Have no idea whether the recoil impulse is similar as CCI could use different priming compounds and powders to do that. You might try that although this ammo is close to supersonic depending on altitude. Another possibility is the Aguila SubSonic Sniper which crams a 60gr bullet into a .22 short case and is definitely subsonic.

Dry firing on a lot of .22's with a chamber relief cut for the firing pin (aka firing blade) is a no no so you could have burrs around the chamber rim and a damaged firing pin. Given the 190's have been out of production for years, it is not a good practice to do so. If you have problems with folks doing that, keep a snap cap in the chamber. A burr around the chamber can be handled--Brownells used to sell a reamer to fix this. A firing pin will have to be replaced, cleaned up or replaced by you if it has burrs or is chipped out, or worked on by a gunsmith.