• You are using the old Black Responsive theme. We have installed a new dark theme for you, called UI.X. This will work better with the new upgrade of our software. You can select it at the bottom of any page.

Securing Doors/ Deadbolt Recommendations

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
2,075
Location
"The Gunshine State"
I need to swap out a flimsy exterior door, and replace some locks. I was at Lowes today, their steel lined entry doors look ok but the dead bolts look a little flimsy.

Does anyone out there have any recommendations as to good door locks and a security doors? I don't mind paying for quality.

To keep this gun related, I am trying to create a barrier so that a home invasion burglar is delayed for a while so that I can make appropriate arrangements.
 
I went with these recently;

http://www.thermatru.com/products/entry/

If you get the right model they lock at 3 points on the door and are much harder for a std kick in. Even then, I replaced all the screws with 3in vs the 1in the doors come with.

In the past I have also drilled holes in the floor and put a steel rod into it to secure a door. Not always an option but point is there is a way to do things if needed.
 
Might want to look at a Secure Elegance Full View Glass Door at Lowes to go in front of your door. Home Depot has a similar model but not quite as substantial. Secure Elegance Locks in three places and has the security glass in place to take a baseball bat to it without yielding. Also rated as Energy Star. Normal exterior doors open inward. Screen doors or glass ones open outward so kicking it in is not an option for invaders. Run a little over $300 per door complete and a bit more for custom colors etc.
 
As noted by the last poster you want a door that opens outward as one of your basic requirements. Next you need to look at your wall construction before any door replacement (is your wall sturdy enough to complement your chosen door and casement?). Next, you're wanting both steel door and casement and they'll come as a set. The installation should get a bit more attention than normal if you want to make someone work a bit to breach it.... I've seen casement installations that were beefed up with poured concrete, but you may not want to get that serious.... You can still reinforce any casement installation with a mix of re-bar and concrete (and this can be a DIY project once the door and casement are properly hung and leveled.

Folks pay quite a bit of attention to locks but they're not worth much if the door can be popped or the casement spread (that's why I'd pay some attention to those items first..). For locks there's lots of choices but the basics require a deadbolt with at least a one inch throw (the bolt goes into the casement at minimum 3/4" with beefed up receiver and hinges (longer, heavier screws). As far as the locking mechanism itself you can go from a cheapie like a Kwikset all the way up to a Medeco but what you're really trying to do is stop, or delay a forced entry so I wouldn't think a high security lock like a Medeco was really necessary.

Hope this helps.
 
IMHO it doesn't make a lot of sense unless you're going whole package. My bro in law spent bucks on having a hardened entry door installed next to a standard window on a front porch. We're I the breaking in type, I would take one look at the door and go in thru the window.
We looked at our budget and went with moderate security level doors and windows and beefed up the lighting and security system. Unless you're willing to live in a fortified structure, there is only so much you can do with hinges and screws and lock sets. The overall layout, lighting, visibility and surrounding environment have more bearing on security. When we designed our home, i actually got some input from a retired military facility security analyst. He had some interesting insight but agreed that even with a generous budget, there are always more vulnerabilities than people realize.
 
We just put in the best Security doors Home Depot has. After some research we went with the Schlage Dead bolt set. Now front and rear doors have 2 sets of locks apiece. We have a large home and security doors everywhere in addition to movement lights. A well trained GSD has full access to the inside.
My main thought is to make certain I can get to a 12 gauge located in each part of the house.
I have a nephew who is getting out of prison and has been part of the Aryan Brotherhood. I've spoken to him in depth for the past year and he says he has changed, but we can't take the chance on who he will meet. The P O said that the A B will put pressure on him to get a few guns.
 
The last two posts are both on the money..... Assess the threat, make reasonable installation upgrades (with an eye towards all of your vulnerable points -not just the doors....), and remember that friends and family should be included in any threat assessments. No one wants to live in a fortress (unless you're in a life style or situation that might be described as extreme....) but there are still reasonable, cost effective measures to make your residence or business less attractive to those who look for weakness....

One last thought from some of the things I saw in police work. If you work with jewelry (or other small items of great value) or lots of cash - make a point of not bringing any of it home with you ever - no matter how great your safe and security measures are.... since eventually someone is going to decide that your house is a much easier target than your business....
 
With decent deadbolts already installed, I also reinforced each hinge with a couple of 3" screws and lastly, added Door Devil plates at the jambs. (They've since made a security kit, which you can see in the link.)

http://www.doordevil.com/
 
You can get commercial steel doors with steel frames . Mount them with 3 inch heavy duty Screws and your set. When you set them to open out they are very hard to breach.
 
As part of a broader picture, you're not going to completely keep someone out, so build your plan around making them come in through the place you prefer. The comment about an easy access window next to the door is spot on. I'm not saying leave the front door unlocked - just make the other points too much trouble. (This also serves to make many would-be intruders choose the next house).

As for specifics, there are some really good answers above. I will point out, though it seems common sense, if you get a door that swings to the outside, make sure the hinges are made for that purpose. Don't spend $1000 on burglar-proofing your home only to leave them quick access with simple tools.

Make them cause as much racket as possible for as long as possible. It discourages them and buys you time to arm yourself.
 
Alarm systems are good as well. I don't bother to have mine monitored but I set it when I leave the home and at night as an early warning device. If you don't have an alarm, you can still buy alarm stickers and yard sign which will make someone think twice before breaking door or window.
 
I added something like the "door devil" posted above. I forget the brand, but same idea, mine is a 5' long steel plate. 3" screws in everything tying the whole thing to the studs.

Edit: This is what I have: StrikeMaster II

For windows, my lower level ones (including glass patio door) and the upper story ones over an easy access garage roof have a "shatterguard" laminate installed. This makes them extremely hard to break. Has to be installed by a Pro, but you can get different tints/UV protection etc. 3 medium size windows and the door were something like $750 installed I think.

I don't actually care that much about when I'm gone (that is what insurance is for), but they will have to seriously up their profile and detection chances getting through either the door or windows. What we have inside is not worth the increased risk/hassle and nothing about our home/neighborhood suggests a big payday inside.

The main purpose for me to up physical security is to buy time to prepare and orient to the threat as well as increase the detection due to all the racket they'll be making. Sure, they can still get in, but not quickly.

Doesn't mean crap if you forget to lock your door though...I'm in the habit of always locking it when I go through, even if I'm in and out for various reasons during the day.
 
Last edited:
I sold commercial doors, and security hardware to go with them.

The primary goal is to keep the door jamb from being spread far enough apart to defeat the locking mechanism - which includes the hinges. Long screws aren't enough, and residential grade is basically useless. In security applications, the walls on both sides of the openings need reinforcement back to the next two - 2 - studs, at least 32 inches. Which means NO sidelights or windows. A window next to the door defeats everything you do.

Tying the jambs horizontally to the studs imposed enough resistance to prevent spreading them. Second, the hinges need to be interlocked to the jamb - use studded screws that project a pin into the opposite hole, or hinges with tabs/pins that do so. Metal jambs aren't necessarily stronger, especially if they are hollow - ensure they are correctly anchored, and have them filled to prevent moving them apart their combined depth, which is enough to pry the bolts out of their recesses. If an outward swinging door, the hinge pins also need to be secured.

On the lock side, double dead bolts at top and bottom are needed, the latching mechanism should be a mortise lock - they project solid bolts, not pressed steel composites that are easy to bend. The lock recesses should be armored to prevent simply cutting it them out and allowing the door to swing open. The door itself needs to be welded seam construction - if the outer skin can be pried up and away, so can the inner skin. Gauge is also important, a 22 ga lightweight residential door has no security rating. It starts at 14 ga, and 12 gauge doors have actually been defeated by determined 14 year olds in counseling centers.

As for keying, any commonly available key sold for residential use is a joke, every BigBox and hardware store will duplicate them without question. Get a security keying from a commercial locksmith that cannot be purchased except thru authorized outlets. Mark the keys so you know who lost theirs, and if lost, rekey. Let them pay the bill, they will learn on the spot. If they can't be trusted with the key, they shouldn't be home alone with it, either.

All this can be defeated by simply finding a more obscure entry point - the existence of cordless tools means a determined attacker will simply cut a hole thru the outer wall, which frankly, is easier. They just aren't that smart, usually. And that includes the roof.

As an example, one perpetrator beat in the back door on a business, stealing items inside. The door was located across an alley in a residential neighborhood, no one called the cops, although the sound of them striking the door and jamb with a sledge hammer and prying it open with a crowbar should have been. The ironic point is that the building was sheet metal, five minutes with a drill driver and some bending, they could have gotten in without the noise and a whole lot more time. Ya can't fix stupid.

A desire for security is a red flag in many situations - there are good reasons to do it, but you have to ask, what suddenly became so much more attractive to want to break in? Someone is showing off too much personal wealth to the wrong people, and were clueless about the deterioration of the neighborhood or unwilling to take a small loss early and just move out. Sometimes personal circumstances change, too - at which point it's not going to be just a door that needs changing. Cut back the shrubbery, add lights, and being proactive about the neighborhood security is better than living with drug dealers and prostitutes literally on your steps.

One thing is guaranteed - neighborhoods change. Nothing stays the same, be aware of what is going on, is it maturing with years left to grow, or deteriorating? One of the first clues is watching an older couple pass away and seeing the children put it up for rent. Sorry - flame on - it's the worst thing that can happen. You now have absentee landlords and residents with no care to see the property maintained. It's the end of a peaceful neighborhood, and within 20 years, it's too late to lament.

We saw our property values stall in those circumstances, and were lucky to get out - the next owner remodeled the kitchen and broke even, the one after that can do nothing but watch others drag down the values.

If you are thinking security doors and needing to keep out certain people, then you are already behind on a successful defense, which is to live somewhere it simply never happens.
 
I have used things to brace my doors from the inside.

Mainly it will slow down folks, and make a lot of noise to either make them abandon the entry, give me time to defend, or alert passersby.

You can get commercial door stops or make your own.

Eye-screws in the studs on either side of the door on the inside, with a length of rebar across it. Put one on top and bottom and even in the middle...

Brace it with a length of 2x6 against the door frame, and the floor of the opposite wall.

Again, these measures will create a lot of noise and hassle for a would-be door-kicker.
 
The neighborhood I used to own a home in in North Charleston had houses built cheap or cheaper. The builder would frame it up, attach cross-ties to the studs, then it was vinyl siding on the outside and wallboard on the inside. Anyone with a stout knife could just cut away the vinyl and kick in the wallboard- a door or window wasn't necessary. We had cement board thankfully.

:mad:
 
Last edited:
We have steel plates inside the door that help us for more security of the door and also its hard to break that gate or open that gate because the frame also have the steel plates.But its a little expensive but secure.
Queensland Security
 
Last edited:
the strikemaster II with 4" stainless screws goes a long way for 99 bucks. I've since moved and now have heavy security doors , and the remainder have to be accessed by an 8 foot brick wall and noisy crushed rock, motion floods, a pool, a dog, an ADT alarm wailing and calling the cops and a light sleeping owner.

But yeah, check out the strikemaster II for some quick reinforcement against kickdoor invasions
 
While your door is out, beef up the door frame with solidly anchored oak beams, or maybe Microlam.

Then install steel brackets to either side of the door frame large enough to slide Microlam beam through them.

With a sturdy enough door, coming through that will mean either complete destruction of the door or completely removing the door frame itself.

You could also replace your front porch with a moat and drawbridge to make things more difficult and buy you some more time during an attempted home invastion.

Just sayin'...

:neener:
 
My $.02

Don't put too much faith in your door. I'm not saying that you shouldn't try to harden the structure, just that no matter what, you're going to have a weak point for someone to attack. Its kind of like Jui-Jitsu... Door-Jitsu: You don't want someone to kick the door in, so you use an outward swinging door... now the Hinges are exposed and can be attacked (although that would take a long time and isn't worth it). To prevent someone from just busting up the door, you use stronger materials, but now its easier to pry open. Mortise locks may have a stronger latch, but the face can be sheared off and the lock manipulated.


IMHO, your best bet is going to be a pair of drop bars - one mid door, and the other close to the bottom.

Hope this helps,
Chris "the Kayak-Man" Johnson
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top