Securing safe to concrete

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ttinlv

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I'm about to buy a safe. (to avoid off-topic, it's technically an RSC). I have a hall closet with double doors that I would like to put this into. The house unfortunately (for this purpose) is on a post-tension slab. While normally I would pay to have such a beast x-rayed to avoid the cables and lag it down, the builder's warranty is void if I drill of any-kind into the slab. The garage is post-tension as well, so just moving it there is no real solution.

What type of epoxy is commonly used to glue safes to a concrete floor?
 
LiquidRoc by Gunnebo Fastening Corporation (800) 336-1640

You'll need to scuff the bottom of the safe and the floor to get it to stick good.

Although I've never used it myself, I did run across a drop safe glued to the floor with Liquid Nail. It was a bear to get loose.
 
#1, would it void the entire warranty, or just if it failed in the place where you drilled?

#2, if you ever want to move/remove it, how will you? Consider gluing down some kind of plate that you can then bolt the safe to?
 
#1, would it void the entire warranty, or just if it failed in the place where you drilled?

This is more severe than a warranty issue. If you drilled into one of those cables you could kill yourself.

It is our policy to NEVER drill into tensioned slabs.

#2, if you ever want to move/remove it, how will you? Consider gluing down some kind of plate that you can then bolt the safe to?

This isn't a bad idea, although many gun safes are usually inexpensive enough to leave behind if you need to.
 
As an experiment, I glued a weird shaped limestone rock on edge on top of a cement block with Gorilla Glue about three years ago.

http://www.gorillaglue.com/

It has been setting outside in all kinds of weather in my wifes flower garden since then.
It is still firmly stuck together.

I pity the fool that tries to move a gun-safe glued down with that stuff!

rcmodel
 
drilling into post tention slabs is not really a good idea, just too much risk.


A better option would be to pore a base( say 8" high x a foot larger all the way around) and install J bolts into that. if you use a good mix and lots of bar/ wire( if I was doing it I would weld the J bolts to the bar) it would be just as good as bolting it down to the slab.
 
How about drilling some small holes into the back of the safe and lag screwing it to the studs in the wall.

You will be able to hit at least two studs on top and bottom. Just find them with a stud finder and a measuring tape.
 
Why not use "Tab" and "Arkey's" together. Would give you a very strong position. If you want more rear support you could use a piece of angle iron to catch several more studs. You could even frame in the entire safe leaving only the door area for access. That would make for a very difficult to remove safe and limit tool accesability to the joints of the door. wc
 
Just a quick note. Some concrete anchors sell an optional seating tool, even though most just hammer them in. If a tool is available, that's probably for a good reason.
 
If you want to get really creative and go medeviel on it use a piece of angle iron that's as wide as the safe and long enough for the safe to sit on. Bolt that through the sheetrock to studs and bolt the safe to the bottom of it. Then bolt the upper part of the safe to studs.

Or you cold pour concrete on top of your slab about a foot thick and bolt the safe down to that.

Jim
 
Why not try to find a piece of concrete to put in the closet and bolt the safe to it.As long as it is wider than the doorway it will serve the same purpose.Something like an air conditioner pad is what i'm thinking. Lightman
 
The whole problem with a concrete base is that concrete tends to sweat by holding in temps. Concrete to metal can cause major rust issues, over a period of time.
 
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