set screws in rcbs dies

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Quit using the nuclear Allen key. Set screws don't have to be more than snug.

This here^^^^:)

I have a Hornady /Wilson deburring tool that is held with a set screw. It i stainless. I buggered up the set screw so I called Hornady. The Tech gave me a lecture on not over-tightening the screw.:eek: Gee sorry but i didn't, he did send me a new one though. What a jerk.
 
The post about Hornady lock rings being easy to strip is false. Horandy's dies come with the best lock rings of all that I have seen real steel with a slot cut and a screw to tighten around the die. Hornady recently started making a cheaper die set (very few dollars) that come with setscrew type rings. My opinion is that the stell cross slot type rings alone are worth the few dollars extra for Hornady dies compared to the cost savings dies I'm not sure of other differences in Hornady dies regular versus cost savings I think Hornady makes some of the best rifle dies in the business.

Hornady's standard dies, "New Dimension" series, have knurled bodies, elliptical expander balls, wrench flats on sizing dies, the zip spindle on sizing dies, a floating sleeve on seating dies, and the Sur-Loc rings. The budget series, "American" series, don't have any of those features. I believe the American series are compatible with RCBS decapping rods. As a matter of fact, those dies look like RCBS dies without knurled bodies, and with more of a bright finish like Lee dies.
 
When the locking nut is tightened you pull the side opposite into the thread and you move the side of the screw out of the threads. the two sides at 90 degrees have the normal tolerance in the threads so the die is free to move axially.

Now when you have a split nut the dynamic changes. The threads in the locking ring are drawn into the entire circumference of the die threads creating better and more positive seating.
Makes sense. Thanks.
 
Thanks KansasSasquatch, Hornady makes a fine set of rifle dies in the "New Dimension" I can't imagine why anyone would not pay the $5-$10 extra and get them. I owned a 221 fireball, and at the time the dies were not common, or they commanded and extra cost. I purchased a set of Hornady New Dimension FL dies and never had problems forming brass from 223.

Back on topic I forgot about Lee they go about the lock ring using a o-ring method that keeps the die loose enough to self center in the threads, yet enough tension from o-ring to lock the ring in place. If you use a die lock ring with a setscrew (really any lock ring) before locking the ring in place put some pressure on the die by using a piece of brass (just like you would full length size)to size with, or a washer (washer between shell holder and die), then raise the ram until the slack is removed from the die threads, lock ring threads, press threads. This should be done with any die, just takes a few extra, seconds I'm sure all of this is probably just old info that everyone already knows, but maybe someone can use it.
 
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Not me, I do not secure the lock ring to the die, I secure the die to the press with the lock ring. I adjust the die to, or off and or below the top of the shell holder every time I use a die. Then there are turret presses, and two ram type presses and presses with tool heads.

I use leather strips to protect the jam nuts cut from slings and belts. I remove the slack between the thread of the press and die.

F. Guffey
 
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