Setting up for 9mm

[AR. Hillbilly]

Soon will be my first attempt at handgun ammo.
I’ve been loading 25-06 and 223 for some time on a single stage.
I bought a RCBS pro 2000 last winter so this will be my first attempt at a progressive as well.
I’ve been slowly gathering parts, shell plates, dies, case gauge and such.
I bought a universal decapper die and a powder check die also.
I ordered Lee 4 die carbide dies and they should be here next week.
The pro2000 has a case activated uniflow as well.
Wondering what else I should be looking for. I have a Lee manual.
I’m looking for 115 grain bullet and powder recommendations also.
I have extra die plates for the pro2000 but plan to focus only on the 9mm until I’m comfortable and will use the single stage for rifle until then.
I have the progressive action disconnected as of now until I’m comfortable.
I use a vibrator with corncob for cleaning. planning on decapping on the single stage and running the brass once.

 

[ImjinScout85]

I load a lot of 9mm and for bullets I use Berry's 115gr, RN. My best powder is VV N320 but I use to use a lot of HP-38 in the past also,

 

[Random 8]

Can't speak to the progressive aspect, I still load even volume handgun single stage. I have a lot of seasonality in my workload, gives me something to pass the time in winter when it's too cold to cut firewood or ice fish.

As for powder/bullet combinations for 115gr, this will depend a bit on what you can find and what your desired outcomes are. You'll want a powder that meters well. Any of the H/W/AA sphericals are in the wheelhouse here. I've had excellent luck with HP-38 and 115 or 124 grain bullets. Power Pistol would be an option, but a bit over throttled for your assumed use (I assume casual plinking given your chosen bullet weight). Sport Pistol or BE-86 should fit, but haven't tried them personally. I did load WST in 115 9mm cast. Accuracy was good, but not a lot of safety margin with the very light charges. Ditto for Titegroup. Autocomp and W244 are worth a look. HS-6 will work well near the top of the pressure curve. Not familiar with the AA lineup, but I hear good things. If I could choose one and availability were of no concern, it would be HP38/W231.

My favorite 115 gr bullet so far has been the RMR 115 match winner. Flawless function and outstanding accuracy across 3 modern pistols. If anything military surplus is in your arsenal, you might stick to a conventional FMJ RN or Berry's RN. The TC bullet styles tend to hang on the feed ramps of milsurp guns. Looks like RMRs shipping and production has caught up, which is great news. Given their pricing, I will likely never shoot cast again in this caliber.

 

[243winxb]

powder check die

Look into each case before seating a bullet. I use 700X -3.2grs- 120gr lswc, in 9mm Luger. I would guess the PCD is not that sensitive? A ball powder will work better in the measure.

Till you know you new equipment well, check every powder drop. Some powders will have a .2 gr. +/- variation. Avoid maximum loads.

Hodgdon has load data for these ball powders.


Photos of powders & type here- https://www.ilrc.ucf.edu/powders/sample_detail.php?powder_id=325

 

[Hugger-4641]

I've loaded quite a bit of 9mm, but I'm doing it on a Lee Classic 4 hole turrett.
A couple recommendations:
1. Get a case gage, I use Wilson, but there are others. If it is ammo that I plan to use in my EDC or SD then every round gets checked and then also plunked in my barrels . If it is just plinking ammo, I check every 10th rd or so with the gage.
2. If you are not using virgin brass, get a Bulge Buster or Makarov crimp die to fix "Glock Bulge". I usually only encounter a few rds of this at a time, but after loading a couple thousand rounds, you'll have enough to make it worth saving those rounds and buying the die. Oh, BTW, if you don't already have one, a collet style bullet puller that you can use in your single stage is going save you a lot of time.
As already mentioned, check every powder drop until you are very comfortable, especially if you are near min or max charge. Some powders have a very small tolerance and under charge can be just as bad as over charge.

I found that 6.4gr of HS-6 behind a RMR 115 fmj rn gives me about 1100fps out of my pistols, which is about the same as factory Federal 115rn ammo. CFE pistol takes about 5.1 gr for same velocity. But as mentioned, don't try to downgrade Hs-6 or CFE Pistol, stay between published min and max.

 

[Rule3]

My .02 cents. There are many many powders you can use. Ask 5 people get 10 answers. Same with bullets.
You will suffer from information overload!
Invest in another manual. like Hornady or Speer. There is also plenty of "data" on Hodgdons/Accurate powders.

I would also try loading a few hundred on your single stage press to get the "feel" of loading 9mm. Little cases, faster powders , seating depth can yield problems. Lot different than rifle rounds.
Using the progressive is a learning curve all it's own.

 

[243winxb]

Invest in another manual. like Hornady or Speer.

Speer & Alliant data free online. https://www.speer.com/reloading/handgun-data.html

 

[Rule3]

Speer & Alliant data free online. https://www.speer.com/reloading/handgun-data.html

Yes, but nothing is learned from online load recipes. Manuals have much more to offer.
Reading is a lost art.

 

[Charlie98]

I would also try loading a few hundred on your single stage press to get the "feel" of loading 9mm. Little cases, faster powders , seating depth can yield problems. Lot different than rifle rounds.

That is the general advise I give any new handloader looking to load 9mm (or similar high pressured cartridges.) Tiny cases, fast (or very fast) powders, and bullet seating depth can have significant impact on safe handloads. In the Early Years, I got into pressure trouble loading 9mm... I hadn't made the connection between pressure and bullet seat depth, and I was using 147's at the time. Use established data, with attention to the fine print.

As was mentioned... there are close to a Jillion powders (or thereabouts) that work with 9mm. These days it's more a matter of what you can find on the shelf, cross-referenced with 2 or 3 powders you have data for.

 

[bullseye308]

What will be purpose of the rounds loaded? Are you just looking for store bought accuracy, decent plinking accuracy, competitive accuracy, or self defensive/precision accuracy? Will these be fired through a single 9mm, or multiple? If multiple will you load one load for all of what shoots best in each one and have dedicated loads for each gun? Do you want full power loads or midrange target/plinking ammo?

Now the important stuff, do you have a local source for powder and primers? If so, what is available to you? If not it’s get what you can when you can online and pay more with less selection. Do you plan to shoot cast, coated, plated, or jacketed bullets, and do you have a preference in bullet weight?

In a better world, I’d prefer BE-86 with 124 RMR jacketed bullets or my own cast and coated 124 grain lead and CCI500’s. If I was having to buy all new stock right now there is no telling what I’d actually be using for bullets, powder, or primers. Fortunately for me I have been loading 9mm for 25+ years and keep a good stock of my preferred components.

When I load 9mm, I use a Lee universal deprimer, tumble, resize, flare, swage, prime, and store till time to load. All done on a single stage, and then loaded on a single stage. I use my barrel of my tightest 9mm to ensure all my rounds fit whichever gun they end up in and don’t use a case gauge anymore. I flare slightly to ease the seating. If the lead bullet and just remove the flair and barely crimp at all.

 

[AR. Hillbilly]

What will be purpose of the rounds loaded? Are you just looking for store bought accuracy, decent plinking accuracy, competitive accuracy, or self defensive/precision accuracy? Will these be fired through a single 9mm, or multiple? If multiple will you load one load for all of what shoots best in each one and have dedicated loads for each gun? Do you want full power loads or midrange target/plinking ammo?

Now the important stuff, do you have a local source for powder and primers? If so, what is available to you? If not it’s get what you can when you can online and pay more with less selection. Do you plan to shoot cast, coated, plated, or jacketed bullets, and do you have a preference in bullet weight?

In a better world, I’d prefer BE-86 with 124 RMR jacketed bullets or my own cast and coated 124 grain lead and CCI500’s. If I was having to buy all new stock right now there is no telling what I’d actually be using for bullets, powder, or primers. Fortunately for me I have been loading 9mm for 25+ years and keep a good stock of my preferred components.

When I load 9mm, I use a Lee universal deprimer, tumble, resize, flare, swage, prime, and store till time to load. All done on a single stage, and then loaded on a single stage. I use my barrel of my tightest 9mm to ensure all my rounds fit whichever gun they end up in and don’t use a case gauge anymore. I flare slightly to ease the seating. If the lead bullet and just remove the flair and barely crimp at all.

These will be for plinking/practice. Hoping for similar to store accuracy.
For my wife and I in two completely different brand guns.

 

[AR. Hillbilly]

My .02 cents. There are many many powders you can use. Ask 5 people get 10 answers. Same with bullets.
You will suffer from information overload!
Invest in another manual. like Hornady or Speer. There is also plenty of "data" on Hodgdons/Accurate powders.

I would also try loading a few hundred on your single stage press to get the "feel" of loading 9mm. Little cases, faster powders , seating depth can yield problems. Lot different than rifle rounds.
Using the progressive is a learning curve all it's own.

I’m willing to buy both if y’all feel it’s a good idea.
Not in a hurry. I’ve been gathering things one at a time as I find them. I’ll not pay panic prices for any of this stuff. got the dies on sale below prepanic price but been waiting a while.
Adding to this, the powder I’m presently using in 223 isn’t listed in my Lee manual. It was purchased 2002 or 3.
Lgs has a good supply of manuals. I’m open to all suggestions.

 

[Rule3]

OK here you go my added .02cents

Lee data is just copied for other sources. Lee never tested any powders.

Get some coated 115 gr bullets in stock from ACME (in stock)

Powder you can't go wrong with HP38/Win 231 or similar in the same burn speed range. (it's a matter of what you can find right now)

http://www.acmebullet.com/9MM-Lead-Cast-Reloading-Bullets?product_id=542

https://hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/burn-rate-color.pdf

 

[sparkyv]

My 2 cents: good stuff from Hugger-4641 and Rule3. HP38 is a great 9mm powder for me as well. I gauge check every round regardless of application. The first out of battery round you light off will bring you to the realization of why I do this. You can fix Glucked up brass with the bulge buster as described:

I've loaded quite a bit of 9mm, but I'm doing it on a Lee Classic 4 hole turrett.
A couple recommendations:
1. Get a case gage, I use Wilson, but there are others. If it is ammo that I plan to use in my EDC or SD then every round gets checked and then also plunked in my barrels . If it is just plinking ammo, I check every 10th rd or so with the gage.
2. If you are not using virgin brass, get a Bulge Buster or Makarov crimp die to fix "Glock Bulge". I usually only encounter a few rds of this at a time, but after loading a couple thousand rounds, you'll have enough to make it worth saving those rounds and buying the die.

 

[LiveLife]

RCBS pro 2000 ... first attempt at a progressive

... bought a universal decapper die ... Lee 4 die carbide dies ... 9mm ... 115 grain bullet ... planning on decapping on the single stage

If you are planning to decap using the decapping die on the single stage, consider using the Lee resizing die so you decap and full-length resize at the same time.

Running resized brass on progressive press will eliminate/reduce effects of shell plate tilt/deflection for more consistent OAL variance and will make progressive operation silky smooth.

With unsized mixed range brass and RMR 115 gr FMJ, I got .003" OAL variance (Which is pretty good) but with pre-resized brass, my OAL variance reduced to .001", which is "match grade" - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...progressive-press.833604/page-2#post-10779806

 

[KYregular]

I've loaded quite a bit of 9mm, but I'm doing it on a Lee Classic 4 hole turrett.
A couple recommendations:
1. Get a case gage, I use Wilson, but there are others. If it is ammo that I plan to use in my EDC or SD then every round gets checked and then also plunked in my barrels . If it is just plinking ammo, I check every 10th rd or so with the gage.
2. If you are not using virgin brass, get a Bulge Buster or Makarov crimp die to fix "Glock Bulge". I usually only encounter a few rds of this at a time, but after loading a couple thousand rounds, you'll have enough to make it worth saving those rounds and buying the die. Oh, BTW, if you don't already have one, a collet style bullet puller that you can use in your single stage is going save you a lot of time.
As already mentioned, check every powder drop until you are very comfortable, especially if you are near min or max charge. Some powders have a very small tolerance and under charge can be just as bad as over charge.

I found that 6.4gr of HS-6 behind a RMR 115 fmj rn gives me about 1100fps out of my pistols, which is about the same as factory Federal 115rn ammo. CFE pistol takes about 5.1 gr for same velocity. But as mentioned, don't try to downgrade Hs-6 or CFE Pistol, stay between published min and max.

I also use the Lee 4 hole, but I have resorted to using it "SEMI-SINGLE" stage so to speak.
1. I take a bunch of brass and size and flare until i have plenty or more than plenty (usually several thousand)
2. I then hand prime whatever amount i need
3. I use the new Lyman bench mount powder drop (most accurate I have ever used) to fill the cases with charge
4. Ill weigh every tenth round for verification, and when I have a couple trays full I hover over every charge to visually inspect
5. Then I seat and taper crimp each round, then code mark with a sharpie for times fired.

Ive tried electric powder drops, mounted powder drops, etc. but this method works the best for ME. Find your own method and roll with it.

 

[Hugger-4641]

I've got the newest Hodgdon and Hornady manual as well as the Lyman 50th. I was a little disappointed in the powder selections in the Lyman. But it's good to have multiple manuals and compare data, especially since one manual may have the exact bullet and powder you are using and the other manuals may have one or the other but not both. I do check the Powder mfg's data online to compare, but you have to keep in mind that each manual and online data probably used a slightly different gun or barrel length to get their data and they give you that information. I also like being able to open a manual anytime I get ready and not depend on the internet connection, which can be unreliable at times in my area.
What Bullseye308 said about the tightest barrel is also what I do when I plunk test. Right now my Taurus G3c is my tightest chamber, so I adjusted my COAL and powder charge to it and made sure those loads were still acceptable in my other 9mm. Since it has a shorter barrel, the same load has slightly higher velocity in my other pistols.

 

[Hugger-4641]

I also use the Lee 4 hole, but I have resorted to using it "SEMI-SINGLE" stage so to speak.
1. I take a bunch of brass and size and flare until i have plenty or more than plenty (usually several thousand)
2. I then hand prime whatever amount i need
3. I use the new Lyman bench mount powder drop (most accurate I have ever used) to fill the cases with charge
4. Ill weigh every tenth round for verification, and when I have a couple trays full I hover over every charge to visually inspect
5. Then I seat and taper crimp each round, then code mark with a sharpie for times fired.

Ive tried electric powder drops, mounted powder drops, etc. but this method works the best for ME. Find your own method and roll with it.

I have similar method with a few differences depending on the brass

If it's once fired brass that I've saved myself, it gets tumbled, deprimed , primer pocket cleaned,, then primed with my hand primer or bench primer depending on how many I've got.
If it is dirty range brass, it gets ultrasonic clean first, then deprime.
I do all my resizing on the turret press, inluding virgin brass.
My first stage is resize with the primer punch removed. Second is expander and powder drop, I'm using the Lee auto drum.
Third stage is seating. Last stage is either empty or factory crimp die, depending on the bullet used.
I also have a couple single stage presses. When not loading rifle cases, I usually have the universal deprime in one and the bullet puller in the other.

 

[mljdeckard]

I found out that if I order them bulk, (1000 or more,) rocky mountain 115 gr fmj is cheaper than Berry's plated lead.

I run a Lee Auto-lock Breech progressive press, and I had some drama (a squib that did no damage) as a result of arguing with the sizing/decapping stage. I stuck a case in the die, and I replaced the Lee sizing die with an RCBS, and now I have my juvenile range slaves size/decap separately, and the other processes run beautifully.

I run 4.0 of titegroup, but when I run out, I may switch to a powder that is bulky enough to not allow a double charge. I installed a light and I visually inspect every single case before I seat. I pulled and re-loaded every single round of the batch that had the squib. (Collet bullet puller.) The collet puller may not work as well with lead bullets. The Lee powder-drop/belling die setup works fine, and I like the Lee Factory Crimp die in my last station. Some of these pros will tell you that if you are doing everything else correctly it isn't necessary, and they may be right, but I find it certainly doesn't hurt, and if I have an extra space for it, why not?

 

[Lennyjoe]

My biggest challenge with 9MM out of my Lee Loadmaster is seating primers. For some reason I’ll foul up on average 1 out of 20 primer seatings. Not sure what it is but I do t have that problem with .40 cal and small pistol primers.

 

[Hugger-4641]

I found out that if I order them bulk, (1000 or more,) rocky mountain 115 gr fmj is cheaper than Berry's plated lead.

I run a Lee Auto-lock Breech progressive press, and I had some drama (a squib that did no damage) as a result of arguing with the sizing/decapping stage. I stuck a case in the die, and I replaced the Lee sizing die with an RCBS, and now I have my juvenile range slaves size/decap separately, and the other processes run beautifully.

I run 4.0 of titegroup, but when I run out, I may switch to a powder that is bulky enough to not allow a double charge. I installed a light and I visually inspect every single case before I seat. I pulled and re-loaded every single round of the batch that had the squib. (Collet bullet puller.) The collet puller may not work as well with lead bullets. The Lee powder-drop/belling die setup works fine, and I like the Lee Factory Crimp die in my last station. Some of these pros will tell you that if you are doing everything else correctly it isn't necessary, and they may be right, but I find it certainly doesn't hurt, and if I have an extra space for it, why not?

That's kind of my thought on the crimp. I have to pull the handle anyway. But at some point I am going to add an auto prime and a case feed. When I do, I'll either have to move the crimp or resize to the single stage. Since I only crimp certain bullets, I'll probably move that die.

 

[KYregular]

I have similar method with a few differences depending on the brass

If it's once fired brass that I've saved myself, it gets tumbled, deprimed , primer pocket cleaned,, then primed with my hand primer or bench primer depending on how many I've got.
If it is dirty range brass, it gets ultrasonic clean first, then deprime.
I do all my resizing on the turret press, inluding virgin brass.
My first stage is resize with the primer punch removed. Second is expander and powder drop, I'm using the Lee auto drum.
Third stage is seating. Last stage is either empty or factory crimp die, depending on the bullet used.
I also have a couple single stage presses. When not loading rifle cases, I usually have the universal deprime in one and the bullet puller in the other.

I didn't mention it but all my brass is cleaned first, then separated by head stamp (lotta trouble but has been worth it). My quoted method is primarily for pistol and small rifle. If, say, I'm loading 30-06 or 300 WM every round when brass is ready is weighed on a digital scale and then on a beam scale and funnel loaded. Then, bullet seated and measured at the ogive.

 

[Toprudder]

9mm is a great place to start for handgun loading. Lots of powders work well in 9mm, but my two favorites are Power Pistol and BE86. BE86 is a very versatile powder that also works well in many calibers. I’ve used it in calibers from 380 to 44mag. For 115gn bullets, I primarily use plated bullets from RMR, but their in-house 115 FMJ is an excellent bullet as well.

For a good manual, I like the Speer manual. Their load data for their TMJ bullets has correlated closely to my results using plated bullets. The TMJ bullets are thick-plated.

 

[lordpaxman]

Wondering what else I should be looking for.

You’ll need to know what your different 9mm guns max COL is before even starting to load. Do a plunk test to figure this out first as recipes specify a COL and you’ll need to know if you can use that data as is or will have to extrapolate.
Pick a faster powder for your plinking/target loads and you’ll be much better off. Titegroup is as fast as I’d go to begin with, but N320, sport pistol, 231, AA2, 244 all would be good. Save the slower powders for full power loads.
I’d go with a plated or jacketed 115 to get used to loading 9, and a round nose will give you the most COL flexibility. A coated bullet would be fine but you’ll have to bell the mouth more so you don’t shave coating. Read your manual, you already know your metallic cartridge reloading steps, it’s just a much smaller case. Good luck.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Can't speak to the progressive aspect, I still load even volume handgun single stage. I have a lot of seasonality in my workload, gives me something to pass the time in winter when it's too cold to cut firewood or ice fish.

As for powder/bullet combinations for 115gr, this will depend a bit on what you can find and what your desired outcomes are. You'll want a powder that meters well. Any of the H/W/AA sphericals are in the wheelhouse here. I've had excellent luck with HP-38 and 115 or 124 grain bullets. Power Pistol would be an option, but a bit over throttled for your assumed use (I assume casual plinking given your chosen bullet weight). Sport Pistol or BE-86 should fit, but haven't tried them personally. I did load WST in 115 9mm cast. Accuracy was good, but not a lot of safety margin with the very light charges. Ditto for Titegroup. Autocomp and W244 are worth a look. HS-6 will work well near the top of the pressure curve. Not familiar with the AA lineup, but I hear good things. If I could choose one and availability were of no concern, it would be HP38/W231.

My favorite 115 gr bullet so far has been the RMR 115 match winner. Flawless function and outstanding accuracy across 3 modern pistols. If anything military surplus is in your arsenal, you might stick to a conventional FMJ RN or Berry's RN. The TC bullet styles tend to hang on the feed ramps of milsurp guns. Looks like RMRs shipping and production has caught up, which is great news. Given their pricing, I will likely never shoot cast again in this caliber.

I can say about 90% of that applies to me, too. Except the cold-just the opposite down here. I use whatever 115gr bullet is on sale for plinking and either Sierra or Speer for factory reproduction loads. W231/HP-38 for plinking and HS-6 for velocity. TiteGroup is tempting considering how economical it is but it takes a practiced hand and eye to load safely. I highly recommend ACME or MCB for coated lead to get started. In my opinion lead is more forgiving.