Setting up for 9mm

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I have a Pro2000 press and it is a good press. The APS priming system is better than the tube priming system provided on other progressive presses but folks do get them to work.

That said, I still prefer to prime cases with a hand primer before feeding them to the progressive. I can prime 100 cases as fast or faster than loading the tubes or APS strips to prime on the press. For a hand primer, I use an RCBS hand primer tool with the universal case holder. I also have the hand primer APS tool that I can use if I have primer strips already loaded.

I like the case activated powder system although I prefer the Hornady version. If I remember correctly, the Hornady version is a license built version of the RCBS version. I use a modified Redding 10-X powder measures for pistol cartridges but the RCBS Unflow with the handgun drum should do just fine. I use a Uniflow for small rifle cartridges like 300 Blackout or 204 Ruger.

Separating sizing from reloading reduces the load the operator has to go through when operating the press. When resizing cases, you can pay less attention to what is going one. Then, later, when actually loading cases, you have less to pay attention to. It allows you to concentrate on what is important. You may think you are losing time but you can operate the press faster in the sizing process and then pay more attention to the reloading precess. A side benfit, you can tumble cases after sizing but before loading.

Hope this helps.
 
I have a Pro2000 press and it is a good press. The APS priming system is better than the tube priming system provided on other progressive presses but folks do get them to work.

That said, I still prefer to prime cases with a hand primer before feeding them to the progressive. I can prime 100 cases as fast or faster than loading the tubes or APS strips to prime on the press. For a hand primer, I use an RCBS hand primer tool with the universal case holder. I also have the hand primer APS tool that I can use if I have primer strips already loaded.

I like the case activated powder system although I prefer the Hornady version. If I remember correctly, the Hornady version is a license built version of the RCBS version. I use a modified Redding 10-X powder measures for pistol cartridges but the RCBS Unflow with the handgun drum should do just fine. I use a Uniflow for small rifle cartridges like 300 Blackout or 204 Ruger.

Separating sizing from reloading reduces the load the operator has to go through when operating the press. When resizing cases, you can pay less attention to what is going one. Then, later, when actually loading cases, you have less to pay attention to. It allows you to concentrate on what is important. You may think you are losing time but you can operate the press faster in the sizing process and then pay more attention to the reloading precess. A side benfit, you can tumble cases after sizing but before loading.

Hope this helps.
Thank you it helps a lot.
I’m not looking for fast at this point. Everything I’ve done up to now has been on a single stage. I have always primed by hand as well. I have a Lee hand primer which works awesome on large rifle primers but not on small rifle primers. 9mm will be the same.
mill buy the RCBS hand primer, set it up for small primers and use my Lee for large.
As of now I have the auto index disconnected on the pro 2000 and will operate it single stage. Only benefit will be having the dies all on one plate. I still plan to size/deprime on the single if needed.
 
For a number of reasons, 9x19 Luger is not a great place to start your handgun reloading career. I would highly recommend (if you can) starting with 45ACP, 380Auto, 9mmMak, 38Super, 40S&W or one of the other true "straight-walled" cartridges.

Yes, plenty of people start with 9mm, but it's not always an easy road. Especially when coming from rifle cartridges. 9mm Luger is actually a sub-set of those cartridges listed above.
 
I’ve found that a few of my 9MM pistols seem to prefer the cone shaped bullets like XTP, HAP, RMR Matchwinner, etc. for best accuracy. Maybe because that bullet shape has a long bearing surface?

I like Bullseye, Win 231 and Unique for my loads, in that order. Of the three, I’ve found Win 231 to be slightly softer shooting than Bullseye or Unique.
I plan to try AA#5, Blue Dot and Red Dot sometime soon.

I’ve been reloading for decades and have loaded lots of different calibers, .45 ACP, .40 S&W, .357 Sig, .357 Mag, .44 mag, .45 LC, and others. For whatever reason, I’ve had the most problems with 9MM.

My biggest problem with 9MM has been oversize cases. Seems like I have a few cases with enlarged heads in nearly every batch of brass I reload. The cases sometimes have head stamps I don’t recognize so I think I may be getting other people’s brass mixed in with mine even though I shoot in the boonies. I think this extra brass might have fired in an unsupported chamber or a open bolt sub gun. Of course it could also be my brass at the end of it’s useful life but I’ve not had any other caliber swell like that. It continues to mystify me.

Maybe a small base sizer would fix the problem but I load 9MM with a Dillon press and have found Dillon dies to work best in my press.

In any case, this is one cartridge you need to gauge before you stuff your magazine with it. Whether you use a gauge or plunk test with your barrel, you DO need to gauge this cartridge because an oversize round can disable your pistol in the field.

Mi dos centavos.
 
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Best use ever for a Hi Point 9mm - one of the guys who shoots at the indoor range told me he bought a Hi Point a few years back for under $50 and stripped it down to parts. He sold off parts on evilB to make back his purchase price plus a little and turned the barrel into a chamber checker for his brass. If it plunks in the Hi Point, it's good. Wicked clever.
 
Best use ever for a Hi Point 9mm - one of the guys who shoots at the indoor range told me he bought a Hi Point a few years back for under $50 and stripped it down to parts. He sold off parts on evilB to make back his purchase price plus a little and turned the barrel into a chamber checker for his brass. If it plunks in the Hi Point, it's good. Wicked clever.
I have a Hornady case gauge and it just happens I traded an old worksite table saw for a new unfired Highpoint 9 mm.
 
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For a number of reasons, 9x19 Luger is not a great place to start your handgun reloading career. I would highly recommend (if you can) starting with 45ACP, 380Auto, 9mmMak, 38Super, 40S&W or one of the other true "straight-walled" cartridges.

Yes, plenty of people start with 9mm, but it's not always an easy road. Especially when coming from rifle cartridges. 9mm Luger is actually a sub-set of those cartridges listed above.
I have been thinking on this reply a lot. I have a few other handguns but 9mm is what we (wife and I) need to practice with. We have a good supply of ammo but I’ve been saving brass all along.
I really don’t mess with other handguns much. Trying to get us each more accurate and comfortable with these 9’s.
im giving this reply much thought.
thank you.
 
I have been thinking on this reply a lot. I have a few other handguns but 9mm is what we (wife and I) need to practice with. We have a good supply of ammo but I’ve been saving brass all along.
I really don’t mess with other handguns much. Trying to get us each more accurate and comfortable with these 9’s.
im giving this reply much thought.
thank you.

I wouldn’t let any comments here discourage you. Loading 9MM is relatively easy. It's no more difficult than loading any other cartridge I’ve loaded.
However, I have found that with 9MM it’s especially important to check your rounds either with a gauge or a barrel plunk test. I sometimes find enlarged heads for whatever reason.
Actually, I gauge my rounds in every caliber I load. I consider it time well spent.
Good luck loading your new caliber. If you have a question, just holler. Feel free to PM me if you run into any snags.
 
I reload a lot of 9mm and 45acp. I started out reloading 45acp and then started reloading 9mm a couple of years later. Presently I reload both on a Dillon 550C. I don't see any difference reloading 9mm vs 45acp other than changing over the set up.

I use Bullseye because it works well with both 9mm and 45acp. And just one flavor powder on the shelf. Many say Bullseye is a dirty powder but it doesn't take any longer to clean my guns shooting Bullseye that the so called cleaner powders.

RMR makes awesome bullets. If you buy x 1000 their price is hard to beat.
 
I LOVE 115gr or 124gr plated bullets (Target Hollow point) from Xtreme combined with WIN-231 powder. Im in the low to low middle of recommended load range. I use the same OAL as Speer bullets of same weight per Xtremes recommendations

Im mindful not to over crimp these so I don't break the plating (as well as make sure there is just enough bell so plating doesn't strip when seating)
I've recovered these bullets from "the woodpile" and there's no indication of plating coming off)

These are very accurate, and very, very clean.
I choose these for accuracy, economics, compatibility with my glock factory barrels.
Available in bulk! I've always been able to buy them at any given point in time within the last 20 years, there's something to say for that as well.
 
@cfullgraf
"I like the case activated powder system although I prefer the Hornady version. If I remember correctly, the Hornady version is a license built version of the RCBS version."

The case activated powder measure was invented by Richard Lee. Any case activated powder measure made by any company is a licensed copy of the patent by Richard Lee.

RL spent a lot of money and time in court, defending his patent. Every big company out there tried to sidestep his patent, and they all lost in court. Every one of them paid him.

RL writes about this in his book(s) Modern Reloading.
 
I just looked at RMR 115 grain round nose FMJ.
I believe I’ll soon order 1000 of these.
Then on to the powder hunt.

Almost everyone makes good bullets... I've used all manner and brand of bullets in the 35 years I've been loading... but if you really want to take the variation obstacle out of the way, find a bullet that a) works well in your pistols, b) displays reasonable accuracy, and c) will be continuously available without changes. RMR is probably the best bet, beside the big commercial makers, although even the Big Guys bullets may not check all those boxes now and then (the Speer 230grn TMJ bullet for me, for example.) This way, you aren't having to do a partial or full load workup with a different profile bullet every time you buy a box of bullets.

rfwobbly is correct... sort of. I wouldn't recommend 9mm as the first cartridge I would try to handload, but it is what it is. 9mm gave me fits at first, this after successfully loading for both .45ACP and .41MAG for a few years prior, and it was quite frustrating... so much so, that I gave up loading 9mm, and eventually gave my 9mm pistol away. True story. I am back to loading for it, however reluctantly, for the very same reasons you are, the 9mm being my primary carry cartridge now. Starting to load 9mm from scratch, again... working with it slowly at first, and following published data and procedures, I've had far more success this time around. ;)
 
IMHO, the problems with 9mm are in the sorting/selection. One must separate the 380 from the 9, and also separate the crimped primer pockets (mainly the NATO brass). I swage the NATO primer pockets. I cull the internally stepped cases as well. Once that is done, loading 9mm isn’t really much different than 40 or 45.

I mark the heads of all the rounds I load so I can identify them from range pickup that I bring home. I know my marked cases have already been through the selection and prep steps I listed above.

Different calibers will each have their own quirks that have to be dealt with. For 40, I have to watch for bulged cases (Glock smiley). For 45acp and 10mm, I have to sort large and small primer pockets.
 
As already mentioned, check every powder drop until you are very comfortable, especially if you are near min or max charge. Some powders have a very small tolerance and under charge can be just as bad as over charge.

I believe you will find a great deal of good information here. Go slow at first and double check each step in the process!

If you are planning to decap using the decapping die on the single stage, consider using the Lee resizing die so you decap and full-length resize at the same time.

Running resized brass on progressive press will eliminate/reduce effects of shell plate tilt/deflection for more consistent OAL variance and will make progressive operation silky smooth.

Separating sizing from reloading reduces the load the operator has to go through when operating the press.

I decap first, wet tumble the brass second, inspect when drying and sorting, resize and prime the brass as a separate step on a Lee Pro 4000. LiveLive is correct in his statement above. I found that by utilizing this approach it slows the process and makes the COAL more consistent.

I use RMR 124gr FMJ RN and FMJ HP as a projectile. They are very consistent and Jake is a member hear (great service & price too). I also utilize Ramshot True Blue Powder because it meters so well in the Lee Powder Thru die that was included with my press.

As for other powders, I hear a great deal of good anecdotally about Sport Pistol and BE-86. I haven't used them yet but plan to as soon as supplies loosen up.

As others have said, find what works best for you with safety in mind. Test all that you read and hear for yourself. Then shoot safe and have fun!!
 
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