Shooting a Revolver "correctly"

[Thatguy686]

im guessing your shooting a revolver in double action right? cause most revolvers in single action are lighter trigger pulls than autos but your probally pulling up a little by rolling the bottom of the handle forward and left because of the heavy trigger pull

 

[Thatguy686]

also another small trick ive kinda picked up is take a spent casing and place it standing up on the top of the gun and put it on target and pull the trigger without letting the casing fall

 

[9mmforMe]

There is always the possibility that the sights are off, which is not unheard of with fixed sighted revolvers. Firing single action, see how you do on paper and then fire some double action and compare. You could also see if you could enlist someone familiar with revolvers to verify the truth of your sights. Lots of good advice on trigger control here so practice a good deal and barring any sight problems you'll be good to go soon.

 

[chriske]

Try every trick anyone suggests, staying focused & keeping track of the results. Memorize those tricks that work for YOU & forget all the others, from whichever GunGuru they may come.

Then shoot a LOT.

You'll be surprised how natural-feeling & accurate DA revolver shooting can get.

You will also get severely addicted.

Welcome to the club.

 

[CDR_Glock]

One thing I notice when I shoot a Revolver is that my shots don't always hit the paper where I put my Sights. When I shoot a Semi-Automatic, nearly all my shots hit where I aim. Please not, this could be from 7 yards or 16 yards.

I prefer revolvers over Semi-Automatics, but the fact that I do better with a Semi-Auto vs a Revolver bugs me. I would like to be able to "master" the revolver. Any help would be good and appreciated.

Here's one thing I've noticed when I shoot my M&P 360. I aim for the Center of the Target, but my shots end up to the left. Now, when I aim for the Center of a Target while using a Semi-Auto, my shots hit the center and my groups are pretty good, unlike a Revolver, where my groups are good but not good enough.

I have tried 3 different rounds of ammunition for my M&P 360. I've shot Federal American Eagle 130 Grain .38 Special (NON +P), Speer LE Gold Dot 125 Grain .38 Special +P, and CCI Blazer 158 Grain .357 Magnum.

When I shot the .357 Magnum Rounds, I must say, I wasn't sure what would happen because the M&P 360 weighs 14.7 oz empty but I shot 5 rounds and actually my hand didn't hurt and I even felt better shooting the .357 Magnum Rounds, even if they weren't heavy rounds. Another thing is that shot placement was better with the .357 Magnum Rounds.

One thing I know I have to get over is not having a 3-4 lb competition trigger anymore.

So, if anyone has any way I could improve my Revolver Skills, then please tell me. Maybe I'm not gripping the Revolver correctly, Maybe I'm not pulling the Trigger correctly. I don't know for sure.

-Adam

I use a straight back trigger pull. I strengthen my grip and fingers with a trainer. I also practice dry firing for endurance with the revolver in double action. I did replace my 15lb trigger spring with a lighter one.

Shooting semi autos is easier due to the lighter trigger pull. My friend has the sane problem. I critiqued his technique (breathing, grip, stance, and pace) and now he knows it's the shooter not the gun. He is now consistently in the center and I only took a few adjustments to get him shooting accurately.

Get an experienced shooter to watch your technique and results.

Another buddy asked me if his GP100 was sighted correctly. I asked to try his gun and give me one bullet. I sighted the target and the number in the middle of the head. I said that the gun shoots fine. In his case he was pulling to the right.

 

[LubeckTech]

Here's something to try in both dry fire and live fire; pull the trigger slowly back while observing the cylinder turn to bring the next chamber into battery then stop when it locks into place. Watch what is happening to your front sight as you turn the cylinder with the trigger and notice the change in the feel of the trigger when the cylinder stops. At this point the hammer is all most all the way (on the DA sear) back and with a little more trigger pull you break the shot. This is a technique Jerry Miculek uses to make long shots double action. If you can learn to do this and keep your front sight on the target during the first "stage" (bringing the cylinder to lock) and the second "stage" (breaking the shot) in slow motion just put it all together and you should be on the way to good shooting. It has helped me see what I was doing wrong and helped me learn how to manipulate the trigger to correct the problems.

 

[S&Wfan]

If you are using ANY pressure on the trigger face which causes the gun, in the slightest, to pull left or right . . . OR up or down . . . OR any combination off multiple errors, you will not be an accurate shot.

1. Grip it high in the web

2. Center the backstrap on the center of the web

3. Use the part of the finger, based on your hand size, which allows a trigger pull that goes straight back with ZERO up/down/left/right motion in any way when shooting double action.

Now . . . if we could go into grip specifics . . . but there are lots of small things that affect trigger pull. Practice, and fine instruction, can turn a mediocre shot into a fine shooter.

 

[Old Fuff]

Gosh!!!

Am I supposed to do all that while yanking a ultra-light J-frame S&W out of my pocket because a mugger is getting ready to stick a knife in my body???

 

[btg3]

Sorta mebbe like depends on whether you're a doin' it fer the first time or not. The mugger may have had more practice, so it's prolly a good idea to have some yerself.