Shorten synthetic stock for trigger pull

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dog gone it

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I have an old Marlin .22 rifle that I need to shoot several rounds through and practice. Due to an injury I cant reach the trigger comfortably as I would like and so I want to shorten the stock. I know I could just take my hacksaw and cut the butt-end off, but it would be hollow. So I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to make the stock end look half way decent if I were to cut it off.
Thanks
 
One option would be to make a block to fit inside the stock. a block would serve two purposes, it will help strengthen the stock and also give you something to mount the butt plate/pad to. You will most likely have to reshape the butt plate after cutting the stock. A belt sander or block of wood with sand paper will do the job. If you decide to cut the stock, take your time when cutting and sanding it to keep everything straight.
 
One option would be to make a block to fit inside the stock. a block would serve two purposes, it will help strengthen the stock and also give you something to mount the butt plate/pad to.
That's what I did with one of my 5'1" wife's rifles that has a hollow, synthetic stock. It took me a while, but it looks good.
I shaped a block of wood to fit perfectly inside the stock, then after roughing up the inside of the stock with 60 grit sandpaper, I epoxied the block in place. After that, it was just a matter of reshaping the original but plate to fit the shortened stock, then screwing it to the block.
As 12Bravo20 said, go slow, take your time, and keep everything straight.
 
I use epoxy instead of wood. Same deal. Many polymer stocks have a rib down the middle of the top and bottom at the rear, that which serves to support the buttstock screws when full length, but they can serve as anchors for epoxy blocks to offer a bit more meat.

Another option, albeit a bit tacky and unrefined, is to cut the stock an extra 1/2-1” short, and use a slip on stock pad to cap the end.
 
That's what I did with one of my 5'1" wife's rifles that has a hollow, synthetic stock. It took me a while, but it looks good.
I shaped a block of wood to fit perfectly inside the stock, then after roughing up the inside of the stock with 60 grit sandpaper, I epoxied the block in place. After that, it was just a matter of reshaping the original but plate to fit the shortened stock, then screwing it to the block.
As 12Bravo20 said, go slow, take your time, and keep everything straight.
I’ve seen this method used and not only did it work great, it looked great too.
 
Thanks for all the great replies. I will consider all options and great ideas. I forgot about those slip on butts, as Im pretty limited as to what I can do as far as other modifications.
 
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Slip on pad after cutting is the simplest and easiest route in my opinion. And unless someone is pretty skilled would probably look better.
 
The only thing that I would add these good ideas is that I would remove the old butplate and install the block of wood inside the stock before the stock is cut. I think that was what 12Bravo20 was saying. The block of wood would be bonded in place using Bondo. Plain Bondo would work but since I work with Bondo often I would use a mixture of 80 percent Bondo, 10 percent polyester fiberglass resin and 10 percent chopped fiberglass. After the Bondo sets up overnight I would cut the stock, and by making the cut with the block bonded in place the cut would be straight, flush and strong. The block of wood should be thick enough so that when the cut is made the thickness of the wood remaining in the stock would be at least an inch thick. The area of the stock in front of the block could be filled with some kind of insulation so the block and the bondo would stay in place as it sets up. The insulation would also keep the stock from sounding hollow.
 
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Slip on pad after cutting is the simplest and easiest route in my opinion. And unless someone is pretty skilled would probably look better.
No doubt
The only thing that I would add these good ideas is that I would remove the old butplate and install the block of wood inside the stock before the stock is cut. I think that was what 12Bravo20 was saying. The block of wood would be bonded in place using Bondo. Plain Bondo would work but since I work with Bondo often I would use a mixture of 80 percent Bondo, 10 percent polyester fiberglass resin and 10 percent chopped fiberglass. After the Bondo sets up overnight I would cut the stock, and by making the cut with the block bonded in place the cut would be straight, flush and strong. The block of wood should be thick enough so that when the cut is made the thickness of the wood remaining in the stock would be at least an inch thick. The area of the stock in front of the block could be filled with some kind of insulation so the block and the bondo would stay in place as it sets up. The insulation would also keep the stock from sounding hollow.
Gotcha. I understand and will consider that option. Thanks for explaining that.
 
Filling the stock with a block of wood or epoxy will work. I would probably fill the part way up first with some foam so that the wood or epoxy sits against something. Yes adding something to the stock before cutting it will help keep the stock from flexing while making the cut. Also don't forget to leave a hole to access the stock bolt.
 
When I cut down my daughter’s plastic stock I removed the plate and cut an inch and a quarter off the stock. I then drilled the plate screw holes deeper, as Varminterror alludes to.
Since this stock is junk when she gets older, when I reinstalled the butt plate I used some solvent glue and glued and screwed it on. Then I wrapped the stock in one layer of masking tape and sanded the plate down to match the stock.

With a cursory glance, it looks as a factory stock would.
 
Word of caution: sometimes those homemade filler blocks are hard to permanently stick inside those slick plastic shells. Your recoil pad will fall off at just the right time.
 
If I was worrying about the Bondo not sticking to the inside of the stock I would rough the inside using a Dremel tool with a small burr. I would concentrate on the sides and the heel, since the toe is slanted to the rear I wouldn't rough the inside of the toe.
 
20200705_154742.jpg 20200705_154651.jpg 20200705_154552.jpg 20200705_154625.jpg Update: Not the best or prettiest but it will get the job done for me. Thanks for all the help and replies. Now I have to get out there and practice.
 
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