Shot first rifle reloads (chronograph results)

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First off everything went smooth. My first time shooting rifle handloads.
Gun is a Howa 1500 270 bolt.
Here are the results and have a couple questions
1st string was factory Federal ammo I had for a while.All strings are 5 shot groups

2,956 ft/sec
2,949 ft/sec
2,892 ft/sec
2,956 ft/sec
2,892 ft/sec
AVG 2,929
ES:64
SD:33


2nd string started with handloads. Rem brass. Hornady 130 SP interlock bullets. CCI LRP. 50.5gr of IMR 4831.
2559
2588
2578
2564
2650
AVG:2587
ES:91
SD:36

3rd string. same as above except went to 51.0 charge
2614
2599
2599
2614
2604
AVG:2606
ES:15
SD:7

4th string@ 51.5gr
2656
2629
2635
2650
2629
AVG:2639
ES:27
SD:12

5th string@ 52.0gr
2656
2682
2666
2715
2666
AVG:2677
ES:59
SD:23


COAL length was 3.725 off ogive. At that length the bullet was .020 of lands. I seperated all bullets. They were within a 1.5 grains off each other. Best I could do trying to find 20 bullets that close together.

My question is where to go next ?
Hornady's powder range is 49.5-56.1
Lyman 49th suggest starting at 53.0. Max is 57.0 which is compressed
IMR reloading manual 55.8 max

I feel like I should get velocities up to where factory is. But then again it seemed like accuracy got worse as velocity increased. My first string of reloads at lowest velocity grouped as well at a 100yds as the factory did at 50 yds.

I also have a couple other powders I could try
I have A4350 and H1000. Although havent found much data for the 1000.

Any suggestions ?
Anybody else had good experiences with the 270 cartridge ?
 

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Velocity means nothing without accuracy. At this point, use your velocities as a reference to published data. In other words, it would help detect a problem if your loads were unusually high or low compared to a reference point.

Many loaders, myself included, will often keep a benchmark to start every session. For me it is a surplus 22lr SV round. I usually get around 1000fps out of my rifle. If I start off and it shows 1500, something is wrong and I reassess.

I use a chronograph while working up a load to compare it. If the test barrel was 24" and they got 2800 and I got 2740, no worries, but if I got 3100, certainly something is amiss. Stop and figure it out.

I'd go back and continue to move up 1/2 grain at a time until you achieve the target velocity, accuracy/velocity you want or signs of pressure. Stop at the first signs of over pressure. I typically go on the side of caution and don't surpass the lowest reported maximum load, this being approx 56 grains.

What are you trying to be your endpoint?

So,y recommendation is to use your chronograph as a tool. Start off each session with a constant. I run a known velocity 22lr every session. Keep good records and be disappointed like the majority of us when we first realize how slow our loads are compared to what we thought they were gonna be. :neener: work up slowly to your endpoint. Velocity without accuracy means nothing.

Also 50.5gr yielded 2587fps
52gr yielded 2677

That's roughly 100fps per 1.5gr increase. Theoretically 55-56gr should yield close to factory velocity. I'm not sure what powder they are running. Again, velocity without accuracy means nothing. At practical hunting ranges....100fps means nothing IMHO.
 
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My question is where to go next ?

No where. I'd load up a bunch at 50.5 where that great group was and shoot em.
Don't get caught up on velocity. I don't own a chronograph. I find an accurate load and go hunting. I have no clue how fast they're going, but deer drop like they've been struck by lightening and that's all I care about. I will say, my most accurate loads are almost never at the top of the range of data. Like osteodoc08 said, an extra 100 fps means absolutely nothing if you're shooting at sensible ranges.

Welcome to the addiction and happy loading.
 
I'm loading 57gr IMR4831 in my .270 and its going 3019fps out of a 22" tube. Accuracy is there at .584" groups at 100 yards.

Disclaimer: this load is safe in my rifle and may not be in yours use with caution.

57gr IMR4831
Winchester Brass
130gr Nosler Accubond
COAL 3.300
Rem 9 1/2 primer.
 
1. Measure the bearing surface of your bullets and sort your bullets this way.

2. Weight sort your brass. I have .280 Rem brass from 191.X to 201.x grs. Fed brass was much closer 191.X - 193.X

2. Measure the rollout of your cartridges, .003 or less

3. Do a ladder test to find the sweet spot (node) and then load groups in this area. You're looking for about 1.5 grain spread where the bullets impact the target very close to the same horizontal location. Do a search on this for a ton more info.

4. Once you find a good load, adjust your bullet seating depth to find where your rifle likes a jump or a jammed bullet. Research this also for possible pressure spikes you will need to avoid.

5. Keep all of your targets. I write dates and all component info on the targets, plus case measurements to datum line, bullet bearing surface measurement, COG - (case to ogive) measurement, case trim length, etc

I sold the .270 and went to the .280 for better bullet selection but with good bonded bullets the .270 is no slouch.
 
Here is a target shot by my handloads. Granted its just a 3 shot group.

photo13.jpg

I'm not always capable, but this load will do this all day long.
I have never weighed a piece of brass in my life.
I have never weighed an individual bullet in my life.
I have never sorted brass by headstamp. There's no telling what headstamp these three shots in the photo were.
I have never measured a chamber to seat a bullet just off the lands.

If you're a benchrest shooter and are trying to squeeze every last ounce of accuracy out of a gun to shoot 1,000 yard competitions, MAYBE these things will help. However, since you're shooting a .270, I'm assuming you're in it for hunting purposes, in which case all of these things are absolutely pointless.

This is my opinion and my photo is to show that it is largely unnecessary. If you want to do these things, you are certainly free to do so. Just don't get all bent out of shape thinking they're really going to make a real world difference.
That first group is a damn fine group and more than good enough for any hunting situation you're likely to encounter.
I admit, it is fun to play with loads trying to tighten them up though.
 
OP I just noticed that you COAL was 3.725. I'm just guessing but I don't see how that bullet is seating in the case far enough...just a thought try seating that bullet deeper in the case and slowly add more powder.
 
OP I just noticed that you COAL was 3.725. I'm just guessing but I don't see how that bullet is seating in the case far enough...just a thought try seating that bullet deeper in the case and slowly add more powder.
I was using bullet compartor which adds 1.006" and measures off ogive Guess I should have mentioned that. You have a good eye. Measuring off the tip they are 3.210..
 
Country, I would rather see your targets than the chrono results. keep loading up until (A) pressure signs or (B) accuracy goes away. You should see your groups getting smaller then larger as velocity goes up. Load to the sweet spot, then check your velocity, es and sd. At that time you can adjust your seater by .05 for best groups. If this is a hunting rifle, I wouldn't weigh each bullet, you are going to have a whole lot of bullets left out of a box. You got a good start though.
 
With proper load trials ... you can get both velocity and accuracy! There can be three nodes of accuracy during load development ... one at the lower end of the velocity range, one near the middle and one near the maximum load ... you have just to work to find it...
 
With proper load trials ... you can get both velocity and accuracy! There can be three nodes of accuracy during load development ... one at the lower end of the velocity range, one near the middle and one near the maximum load ... you have just to work to find it...
What he said. You are well below max, and there is likely at least one equal or more accurate load at a higher velocity. Keep going up in increments of .3 to .5 grains to book max or until you see pressure signs ( sticky bolt, flattened or cratered primers, or burns around primers). Were you letting the barrel cool good between groups? Fatigue, getting recoil shy, or dirtier barrel could have also contributed to groups spreading out - try to keep everything as similar as possible from one group to the next.
You could definitely hunt with the first group, but you might as well take a 30 - 30. With a powder & bullet that shoots reasonably well at the low end of the range, I can almost always find a good load within 100 FPS or so of book max. You just have to play with it a little more - when you get a pretty good one, you can fine tune COAL and usually get it even better.
To me, that is part of the fun of reloading.
 
I will add I do not own a chrono either. I start low, work my way up, find the most accurate load and load them all like that. I watch for signs of over pressure but have never seen any.
 
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