Shotshells: Does matching hull type (tapered versus non-tapered) to wad type really make a noticeable difference?

[WVGunman]

I've got all the free once-used hulls I could ever want from my local skeet range. The only primers I can get right now are the Cheddite/Clerinox brand stuff made in Europe. I've heard there ARE size differences between these and the primer/pocket size on American (Winchester/Remington) shells, so I figure I'd best stick to foreign brand hulls for that reason. (Such as Fiocchi, Rio)
I already have a bag of wads, and I believe they're supposed to be for tapered hulls, the aforementioned Remington and Winchester. So, I have a mismatch between the hulls I need to use and the wads I have. I'm looking to load 1-1/8 oz loads in 12 gauge 2.75" shells at pretty low velocity (1,100 fps) for casual trap and skeet shooting.

Reading around about this, the variances involved can get pretty .... abstract. I'm looking to make rounds to mess around with, not competition. Nobody can really seem to say if using a tapered wad in a non-tapered hull (or vice-versa) would make any real difference at all in a casual-shooting-for-fun environment. Most comments I've seen on this are from serious/competitive shooters who can talk for an entire page on how 1/2 grain of Red Dot or the thickness of the plastic in the hull affects their scores.

As far as I can tell, mismatching hulls to wads seems like maybe it would cost me 50 fps in velocity, or somesuch, which hardly matters to me at all. Can anyone shed more light on this situation?

 

[jmorris]

I load mixed brass pistol and rifle for 3 gun ammo and other non precision uses but I always seem to run into trouble if I don't stick with "A" hull and the right wad for it.

 

[FROGO207]

I have found that you can mix up wad designs/lengths to a degree but the differences between straight wall and tapered hulls makes enough of a difference that you do not want to try it. Having a blooper and getting things stuck in your barrel are not worth it cause free wads. Wads are cheap, just get some of the knock off's of the correct type and be happy you are at least somewhat accurate and more importantly safe!

Oh yeah the cheddite primers will work in our hulls but will make the primer pockets large enough that US primers will fall out if used after. So use Cheddite and keep on using them in those "modified" hulls.

 

[Howa 9700]

The tapered hulls are basically a cone or funnel at the base. So wads to match are pressed into base until they stop. Straight walled hulls are just that. I measured them at base of wad......where cup seals in the powder.......and wads for tapered hulls were a full 30 thousands smaller in diameter. Inserted backwards into a straight walled hull, there was a gap between hull and wad base.......and a lot of slop around the base. Read failure to seal.

Next problem is they are a bit shorter and fail to fill space to get stack height right. This new clear Fiocchi hull with wad for 1 oz payload. Note where it stops. Lower marks were from tapered hull wads. Loads with those would dish in.



So if you are wanting to load 1 1/8 oz payloads into straight walled hulls, (Top Gun, Fiocchi, Cheddite, etc), the wad you want is CB6118-12.

CLAYBUSTER WAD 12ga 1-1/8 STRAIGHT WALL 500/BAG - Graf & Sons

For use in 1 to 1-1/8 oz. skeet, sporting clays or hunting loads. Designed for Federal and all Imports. Optimum load is 1-1/8 oz. 5 Bag Limit or Purchase a Case of 5,000 Here.

www.grafs.com

Really ought to measure to confirm, but I think the deal with Cheddite primers being different size has been corrected. Modern version same size as US primers. Have pretty much taken over US reloading market, if for no other reason than you can actually buy them in any amount you want and they work just fine.