Shudda bought a mk IV
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Blue68f100
Member
Need a little more info as to what your working on. I know of several MKIV, rifle and pistol.
Ohen Cepel
Member
I'm guessing a Ruger .22 pistol. Sorry no help, I have some I should take down to clean but dread it.
BBBBill
Member
First time disassembling? They can be a bit tough the first few times. Is it cocked? If so take it off safe and drop the hammer before trying to pop the lever. There are about 1000 videos on You Tube. Watch a few to ensure that you understand how to proceed.
PWGUNNY
Member
Youtube is your friend on this. I've had my Ruger competition for about 7 years. I've dismantled it maybe 4 times. Each time a challenge getting the main spring housing back in. Separating the top from the bottom was done with a tap from a rubber mallet. Some owners bring their pieces of Ruger back to their LGS and pay to have it cleaned and reassembled.
Blue68f100
Member
If it's the Ruger MKIV you have to drop the hammer for the the strut to get dislodged under a pin. Point gun down, squeeze trigger and shake the gun a little has always worked for me. Point gun up and see if the bolt comes out. Normal flat position will stick the strut.
Here is a web site that is run by a gunsmith that address all models of the Ruger's. It's a pictorial guide with detail pictures. Clicking on the images expand them to full size. The MKIV is there newest model and maybe slightly different in some areas. But all have the same function.
https://guntalk-online.com/service.html
Here is a web site that is run by a gunsmith that address all models of the Ruger's. It's a pictorial guide with detail pictures. Clicking on the images expand them to full size. The MKIV is there newest model and maybe slightly different in some areas. But all have the same function.
https://guntalk-online.com/service.html
What model, MKI, MKII or MKIII?
Need a picture to show the part location. Did you latch the mainspring without getting the hammer strut into the mainspring indent?
MifflinKid
Member
Check out the Speed Strip kits from Majestic Arms. Saves time, aggravation and swearing.
https://majesticarms.com/product-category/speedstripkits/
https://majesticarms.com/product-category/speedstripkits/
WAS a mk3 ruger.
I worked on it for about 6 hours on and off.
Took it to the gunsmith that I normally use to reassemble it.
Chad thought it would be an easy 50 bucks to disassemble, ultrasonic it, lube and reassemble. Told me to come back in 30 minutes.
I came back 45 minutes later and it's still not together. He's dumbfounded. There's something seriously wrong with it he said. He pulled his sons mk2 out and showed me how fiddly and easy it is on his.
He gave me 200 for it and I'm done.
I worked on it for about 6 hours on and off.
Took it to the gunsmith that I normally use to reassemble it.
Chad thought it would be an easy 50 bucks to disassemble, ultrasonic it, lube and reassemble. Told me to come back in 30 minutes.
I came back 45 minutes later and it's still not together. He's dumbfounded. There's something seriously wrong with it he said. He pulled his sons mk2 out and showed me how fiddly and easy it is on his.
He gave me 200 for it and I'm done.
Obturation
Member
I like the mk3 takedown and reassembly only because It's easy after you've done it a dozen times but people are dumping them for the mk4 and I've seen some very cheap.
I'd like a mk4 but I'm not taking a huge loss on my older model so with me it'll stay.
Sounds like yours had something real wrong, did it work properly?
I'd like a mk4 but I'm not taking a huge loss on my older model so with me it'll stay.
Sounds like yours had something real wrong, did it work properly?
earlthegoat2
Member
I got my stainless MkII 6” Target for $250 OTD.
On the lookout for a MkII slab side target for the same price. Haha. Yeah right.
On the lookout for a MkII slab side target for the same price. Haha. Yeah right.
Obturation
Member
Hope you find one. I love my mk3 slab side
Blue68f100
Member
The MKIV is suppose to be redesigned so the kit is no longer needed.
Once you take one apart several times it becomes second nature. The line I posted above the gunsmith put together to help people with the MK's. He said he was getting a lot of them coming through that were in boxes disassembled and the owner could not get them back together. With his guide a novice could do it if you look at the photos only. Has detail pictures of the problem areas.
Obturation
Member
I wasn't going to do it, but I'll admit it...
The first ruger mk3(the most hated mk pistol) I bought I stupidly took apart before firing to check everything out. Got it back together and it was the dragging bolt locked up kind of assembly job. I took it to a pitiful excuse of a gunsmith employed in house at the gun store I purchased it from. He was no help and told me they'd send it in for me. I declined and took it home to fiddle for hours and a bunch of videos and I got it back apart and assembled correctly. That gun ran like champ through 20,000+ rds and I sold it a year later for $20 less than I bought it for new.
I never forgot the lessons learned that day. Mk3 for life!!. When I see a deal on a mk4 I'll buy it but im not getting rid of what I've got.
The first ruger mk3(the most hated mk pistol) I bought I stupidly took apart before firing to check everything out. Got it back together and it was the dragging bolt locked up kind of assembly job. I took it to a pitiful excuse of a gunsmith employed in house at the gun store I purchased it from. He was no help and told me they'd send it in for me. I declined and took it home to fiddle for hours and a bunch of videos and I got it back apart and assembled correctly. That gun ran like champ through 20,000+ rds and I sold it a year later for $20 less than I bought it for new.
I never forgot the lessons learned that day. Mk3 for life!!
. When I see a deal on a mk4 I'll buy it but im not getting rid of what I've got.
FROGO207
Member
I have a bunch of MKII stainless targets in different configurations I have purchased right over the years. Love them for a lot of reasons. Once you take them apart a few times and clean them ( following the instructions in the manual!!!!!) It becomes second nature. Not every firearm comes apart as easily as a 1911. There are many that require a little trick or two to clean. I will add with the Rughr MK series you will peen the back of the firing pin and get light strikes after about 90K rounds. I have several spare firing pins for that reason. I have had this happen to two of them I use for bullseye guns so far.
I recommended a Ruger 22lr to a friend, but the MKIII had just come out and the design was new on the market. He bought it, and what a mistake that was.
The first generation loaded chamber indicator rested directed on the rim of the cartridge in the chamber. The indicator would knock cases off the breech face as they extracted causing a stove pipe jam in every magazine. And when we looked at the thing, we figured out, that if you dropped his MKIII, an impact on the loaded indicator would fire the round!
Took the pistol to another bud and he milled off the flange that rested on the rim. The pistol now feeds and extracts perfectly. Ruger sent a notice for a indicator up grade, but Bud did the right thing and ignored it.
Not being able to pull the trigger when the magazine was out of the pistol made the assembly confusing. It takes multiple trigger pulls to get the hammer strut to align with the mainspring housing.The assembly is blind, you can't see if the hammer strut is in alignment with the spring pin.
The absolute best thing you can do with a MKIII is to buy a Volquartsen conversion kit and restore the gun to a MKII configuration.
The MKII is an excellent pistol once you get the thing reassembled, I highly recommend the Volquartsen trigger, it is adjustable for take up and over travel. I had to watch a video to learn how to install the thing, but I managed to do it!
The first generation loaded chamber indicator rested directed on the rim of the cartridge in the chamber. The indicator would knock cases off the breech face as they extracted causing a stove pipe jam in every magazine. And when we looked at the thing, we figured out, that if you dropped his MKIII, an impact on the loaded indicator would fire the round!
Took the pistol to another bud and he milled off the flange that rested on the rim. The pistol now feeds and extracts perfectly. Ruger sent a notice for a indicator up grade, but Bud did the right thing and ignored it.
Not being able to pull the trigger when the magazine was out of the pistol made the assembly confusing. It takes multiple trigger pulls to get the hammer strut to align with the mainspring housing.The assembly is blind, you can't see if the hammer strut is in alignment with the spring pin.
The absolute best thing you can do with a MKIII is to buy a Volquartsen conversion kit and restore the gun to a MKII configuration.
The MKII is an excellent pistol once you get the thing reassembled, I highly recommend the Volquartsen trigger, it is adjustable for take up and over travel. I had to watch a video to learn how to install the thing, but I managed to do it!
earlthegoat2
Member
Iowegian, over on Ruger Forum, always said you had to get the angle of the dangle right to reassemble them.
The commentator is right. The problem is, unlike the other guy who arrived on earth in a space ship, when my space ship landed, I lost my X Ray vision.
So, I can't peer inside the frame and see the angle of the hammer strut, and that angle has to be perfect for the parts to align.
rabid wombat
Member
Yeppers, the MK IV was designed to stop the cursing. I have not bought this yet for my Mark II’s, but I have read good things....
https://www.hammerstrutsupport.com/
https://www.hammerstrutsupport.com/
FROGO207
Member
I have no real problems working with my half dozen MKII's. Once you take those apart and reassemble following the manual a couple times it becomes easy. The next version was NOT an improvement IMHO.
Riomouse911
Member
My Standard (Mk I), and Mk II aren’t too tough to reassemble... once you learn how. And yes, You Tube was my friend.
I bought a Mk IV 10” Model last week, because finding a good MK II 10” is almost impossible anymore. I’d talk about the MK IV...but it’s still in the California penalty box awaiting my “background check” approval from our inept DOJ.
Stay safe.
I bought a Mk IV 10” Model last week, because finding a good MK II 10” is almost impossible anymore. I’d talk about the MK IV...but it’s still in the California penalty box awaiting my “background check” approval from our inept DOJ.
Stay safe.
That Mk3 that I found was just an insufferable POS.
My highschool shooting buddy has a mk2 that I have borrowed many times.
Minute of $1 expired orange grocery store fruit bags.
That was the whole reason I wanted a Ruger auto. I've taken it apart a few times. It's a fiddly pain in the behind but doable.
The gunsmith is sending the mk3 back to be reassembled and examined.
The silver lining is I found myself a stainless 22/45 mk2 in a pawnshop for 250 OTD.
They let me take it down and with a few **** and ******* I was able to get it together again and some good natured laughing on their part.
I guess I'm just not destined to have a mk3, but I am on the lookout for a mk4 target now.
My highschool shooting buddy has a mk2 that I have borrowed many times.
Minute of $1 expired orange grocery store fruit bags.
That was the whole reason I wanted a Ruger auto. I've taken it apart a few times. It's a fiddly pain in the behind but doable.
The gunsmith is sending the mk3 back to be reassembled and examined.
The silver lining is I found myself a stainless 22/45 mk2 in a pawnshop for 250 OTD.
They let me take it down and with a few **** and ******* I was able to get it together again and some good natured laughing on their part.
I guess I'm just not destined to have a mk3, but I am on the lookout for a mk4 target now.
earlthegoat2
Member
This thread is really indicating that MkIIIs are are inferior to MkIIs pertaining to field stripping.
I was under the assumption they were the same level of pain in the tuchus
I was under the assumption they were the same level of pain in the tuchus
AlexanderA
Member
The elegant solution is an aftermarket filler piece that replaces the Mark III LCI. These are available in blued or stainless. Not very expensive either.
That's because of the magazine disconnect. Best to remove that entirely. Not only does that simplify disassembly, but it also improves the trigger pull.
No need to get the complete Volquartsen kit. Basically you only need the Volquartsen sear (which is available by itself) and a stock Mark II hammer. The Volquartsen hammer is skeletonized, which is supposed to improve lock time, but also lightens the primer strike. I would avoid it for the sake of reliability.
I prefer the Clark to the Volquartsen trigger. The Clark has a more conventional profile, and also has the adjustments.
SGW Gunsmith
Member
First, we need to install an empty magazine and dry fire the pistol so that the hammer is in the forward position, then remove the magazine. If that's been done, move on to the next possibility. Then make sure that the mainspring housing "lock" has not been engaged. You should have the key for that. If that's also OK, move on.
What you now need to do, is remove the grip panels. One of two things, either the hammer strut is stuck behind the lower sear spring pin, or worst case scenario, the mainspring housing latch pivot pin has drifted either right, or left, and will not allow the mainspring housing assembly to come out of the grip frame.
Easiest first. If the hammer strut is indeed stuck behind the sear spring lower leg, hold the pistol as if you are firing it, pull back as hard as you can on the trigger while you forcefully jam the muzzle end down onto a pine 2x4, or carpeted rug. Quite often, that will free up the hammer strut and the latch will now be able to open up.
Still stuck? What does work every time, is to knock the sear pin completely out of the grip frame. That will surely free things up on the inside and you will be able to get the mainspring housing assembly out.
Worst case. If the housing latch pivot pin has drifted either way, right ot left, I have a method I've used on a couple of Ruger Mark pistols, but I would need to have the pistol here.
What you now need to do, is remove the grip panels. One of two things, either the hammer strut is stuck behind the lower sear spring pin, or worst case scenario, the mainspring housing latch pivot pin has drifted either right, or left, and will not allow the mainspring housing assembly to come out of the grip frame.
Easiest first. If the hammer strut is indeed stuck behind the sear spring lower leg, hold the pistol as if you are firing it, pull back as hard as you can on the trigger while you forcefully jam the muzzle end down onto a pine 2x4, or carpeted rug. Quite often, that will free up the hammer strut and the latch will now be able to open up.
Still stuck? What does work every time, is to knock the sear pin completely out of the grip frame. That will surely free things up on the inside and you will be able to get the mainspring housing assembly out.
Worst case. If the housing latch pivot pin has drifted either way, right ot left, I have a method I've used on a couple of Ruger Mark pistols, but I would need to have the pistol here.
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