Sig DAK for marksmanship?

[wooderson]

I've been looking at revolvers for a couple of months, but I don't find the primary options (686, GP-100) all that inspiring. Kind of ugly, don't like the full-lug barrel (could go with a 620 over the 686), and little interest in .357 for now.

My desire is for a handgun with the same shot everytime - and something I can dry-fire to my heart's content without changing grip/form by recocking (or constantly going through the heavy and abnormal DA shot of a DA/SA gun), along with regular practice of course.

So then it occurred to me I ought to think about DAO pistols - of which, the DAK system is the only one that appeals to me. Don't like the look or feel of H&Ks or Glocks, the Para-Ord LDAs are nice but I'm looking for 9mm and don't like double-stack 1911s.

Is there anything I'm missing that would make a P226 or P229 DAK less than ideal for someone who's somewhat experienced with firearms but only now getting more serious about marksmanship?

(and, sub-question, if cost were not an issue, are there any advantages you see to going with a new S&W Model 67 rather than a Sig?)

 

[varoadking]

Get a Wolff 18# mainspring and the 10 ring has no chance of survival...

 

[Stephen A. Camp]

Hello. For pure ease in getting holes close together on targets downrange, I've found nothing better than a tuned single-action where semiautomatics are concerned. That said, I have been very pleasently amazed at how "revolver-like" the DAK trigger pull is in the SIG-Sauer P229 w/DAK.

This might not win Camp Perry Matches, but it will handle 99% of my perceived needs.

At 25 yards, the flyers are my fault and not the pistol's. The DAK might not be the absolute "best" for precision shooting, but I've been stunned at how nicely it can do.

Best.

 

[motorheadjohn]

If you can find a SiG with a DAK trigger at a local shop, check it out carefully. I doubt the DAK works as you think. I've got a SiG P239SAS with the DAK trigger. Dry-firing that gun does not reset the trigger and hammer the same as when the slide cycles.

When firing live rounds or manually cycling the slide during dry fire, the DAK has two different reset notches. The first reset notch is about halfway of full trigger reset, but this notch has 2lb (SiG claims) heavier pull. Letting the trigger reset at the full length is the lighter 6.5lb (claimed) pull. In cycling live rounds or manually cycling the slide, the hammer rests at what I would describe as a 1/3 or 1/2 cocked position.

When dry firing the gun without cycling the slide, the hammer comes to full rest instead of the partially cocked position. Pulling the trigger at that point has a very heavy pull. The gun clicks about halfway through the trigger pull, which has moved the hammer to that partially cocked position. At that point, you can continue pulling heavy or you can release the trigger and reset to full length for the 'regular' DAK 6.5lb pull.

I like this DAK gun fine for basic range and for future carry (still breaking it in). But I prefer my P226's SA shots when I'm practicing accuracy/marksmanship. As far as marksmanship goes, my P226 stainless shoots the best compared to my regular alloy-framed P226 and the P239SAS/DAK.

Loading the regular DA/SA guns (racking the slide or releasing from lock) will result in hammer cocked. You shouldn't need to go through the long DA pull on the first shot unless you intentionally started from a decocked condition.

 

[Sox]

I had a P229 DAK and loved it! I originally got it just to try, as I was interested in the trigger mechanism itself. I shot that faster than I thought I was going to be able to and more accurate as well. That then spurred me on to try the Beretta PX4 Type C action which I equate to the old S&W TSW DAO actions. My all time favorite though is the LEM as found on the USP compacts-not the LEM as found on the P2000-there is a difference, as the reset on the USP compact LEM is about 30% shorter and man can you shoot that thing fast. The P2000, I did not like as I tended to pull my shots. I think Sig could have refined done the DAK a little better, I wish it had a much shorter reset on the heavier pull and then the longer lighter pull as it currently has-that's really my onlyl criticism though. Try to look at them all: Para ord LDA, Kahr, PX4 "C", USPcLEM, P2000LEM, DAK, S&W DAO. Good luck.

 

[wooderson]

Loading the regular DA/SA guns (racking the slide or releasing from lock) will result in hammer cocked. You shouldn't need to go through the long DA pull on the first shot unless you intentionally started from a decocked condition.

I mean when dry-firing, while practicing sight picture and so on. I don't like the DA pull (10lb claimed by Sig, I think my CZ is even heavier) shot over and over rather than the lighter SA shot experienced while shooting live.

I'll definitely hunt down a DAK to try it for myself.

 

[antsi]

Define "marksmanship."

For me, with handguns, marksmanship is improving my performance with a combat handgun, and introducing different kinds of challenges (such as time pressure, having to draw from a holster, shooting while moving, shooting from cover, etc.). As long as all my shots are falling in the black (or COM), it's more important to me to improve my speed or my movement to cover or whatever than it is to try and get all my shots in the x-ring.

Therefore, since I'm trying to improve on semi-realistic combat type skills, and doing so with actual daily carry or duty type guns, a SIG DAK would be a fine choice for me.

SIGs generally are very accurate as an out-of-the-box combat handgun, and unless you're already a master pistol marskman, you could probably learn and improve your skill a lot before you're outshooting the gun's potential.

But if you are primarily interested in real precision marskmanship, a pistol specifically made for target shooting will probably make you happier. If the object is to shoot the tightest groups you possibly can, a target .22 with a bull barrel and a single action trigger is hard to beat.