sig p220 sao question

[Robbins290]

i just replaced my carry glock with a sig p220 sao. i was wondering how often i should replace the main spring with having pressure on it 24/7? im sure im just being paranoid, but i was just wondering. should i just go till i start getting light strikes then change it?

 

[9mmepiphany]

The factory recommendation is 3500-5000 round between recoil spring changes. Folks who shoot a lot just change both springs at the same time.

Keeping the main spring constantly compressed doesn't wear it as much as compressing and releasing the pressure. The working of the spring is what causes it to fatigue.

To extend the life of your SIG 220, use a persistent grease on the frame rails rather than an oil

 

[Robbins290]

Thanks 9mm

 

[Robbins290]

Hey 9mm, what kind of grease would you recommend?

 

[9mmepiphany]

Most folks use medium Slide Glide. I know several smiths who use Lubriplate

 

[Hagen442]

2 Cents from a Old IDPA/USPSA Shooter
Lube:Used a lot of Lube Products over the years in my search for a Lube that would cover my needs.
Militec 1 covered the bases including a Better Lube for my Black Powder Firearms.
The Sig Pistols were the only Mfg to never HicCup in a Match.

+1 For Walt's Sig Knowledge.

00

 

[Fremmer]

Please let us know how she shoots, some of us are waiting on that pistol!

 

[Robbins290]

I only test fired it. But it was smooth and had a mild recoil.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

i was wondering how often i should replace the main spring with having pressure on it 24/7?

Main spring = hammer spring(s)? (I suggest that, because recoil springs are generally not called main springs and are not compressed until the gun is fired...)

If you keep your gun fully cocked and locked around the clock, the hammer spring/s would be the only gun spring/s kept under pressure. (Most of the newer SIGs have two hammer springs...)

Springs can fail by being kept fully compressed near their design limit, but I've never really heard of one of this model's hammer spring failing, although I'm sure that's possible. (I don't know that cocking the hammer is working the spring to it's design limit; they may have built in some excess...)

If you are concerned, I'd just pick up a spare set of hammer springs from Wolff and have the set on hand.

A quick check: put an pencil down the barrel in the empty gun, eraser first, pull the trigger with the barrel pointed toward the ceiling See how far the pencil moves. Over time, if you start to notice that the pencil doesn't move as far as it used to, it may be time to change springs. You can also shoot the gun regularly and if you start having ignition problems, install new springs.

Recoil springs and mag springs are the springs most often replaced, but with those springs you generally get hints that new springs are needed before the gun stops functioning as it should:

1) In the case of recoil springs, you'll start seeing the gun not return fully to battery or see your spent cases start be sent greater distances than usual.

2) Mag springs will seem to be softer when loading and may not allow the next round to be picked up properly, maybe even see the front of the round nosedive in the mag, while fresher mags (and their springs) will continue to work properly.

Mag springs tend to fail a bit faster if they're hi-cap mags or compact/sub-compact mags, if they're kept fully loaded or stored that way. Wolff Springs recommends downloading a round or two for long-term storage.​

I have a 220 Super Match [SAO], but I keep it cocked and locked only when I'm carrying it or handling it at the range. As a bed side gun [small gun safe bolted to the floor] it's generally kept hammer down, which means I have to manually cock it if I want to use it. (In the middle of the night, if I hear something, I want to be sure I'm fully awake before I do anything....) I also have electronic muffs and a bright light handy, too.


.

 

[Robbins290]

Thanks Walt. I will try te pencil test. I already ordered a new main spring, I should have ordered a recoil spring while I placing a order. Didn't think of it till after

 

[9mmepiphany]

Don't order the single strand recoil springs. They have different compression properties from the factory multi-strand twisted springs

 

[Walt Sherrill]

Don't order the single strand recoil springs. They have different compression properties from the factory multi-strand twisted springs

I don't doubt that there are differences, but can you explain the practical consequences of changing the type of springs? In what ways will it make a difference, if the new springs have the same spring weight?

(I've seen these braided springs in some CZ models, too, and they're available in only one [stock] weight, so you're unable to go heavier or lighter if you keep the braided style.)

 

[9mmepiphany]

I just took the word of Bruce Gray on it.

He says that out of the hundreds of SIGs they see through the shop each year, that they have noticed that there is accelerated wear when folks have gone to the single strand Wolff springs. Bruce is a huge believer in Wolff replacement springs in other platforms...since his days as a top tier 1911 builder...but he recommends staying with the factory springs to prolong the life of SIGs.

If you'd like a more detailed answer, you can contact the shop...a phone call will get you a better response than an e-mail

 

[Walt Sherrill]

If you'd like a more detailed answer, you can contact the shop...a phone call will get you a better response than an e-mail

That didn't exactly answer my question, but do appreciate the extra info.

I've talked with Bruce in the past, and am the happy owner of a Gray Guns P228 -- it is simply superb. I won't waste his time with this sort of question until I need to talk to him about something else.

I would be interested in knowing WHAT is being worn by using the Wolff springs that don't also wear when other springs start to lose their resiliency...

 

[jawman]

To extend the life of your SIG 220, use a persistent grease on the frame rails rather than an oil

^This!!

I also recommend reading this guide of how to lubricate a Sig: http://grayguns.com/lubrication-of-sig-sauer-pistol-rails/

I use Magnalube on my Sig P226. It is cheap, effective, and a lot of folks use it, including gunsmiths. Do an online search like "magnalube in firearms" and you can read dozens of reviews of gunsmiths and gun owners using it and recommending it. Don't waste your money on the overpriced stuff that is marked up with a large price tag just because it is marketed for firearms. I remember reading about a company that purchased a grease that was used in shops, and was labeling and selling it marketed for firearms, but they were greatly increasing the price for tiny quantities, when you could literally go to the right kind of store and buy the exact same grease for a much cheaper price and a larger amount. These guys were buying huge quantities at very cheap prices, packaging it in tiny bottles/tubes, and re-selling it at astronomical prices, all because it was marketed as a premium firearm grease. I can't remember the name for the life of me though, but I remember reading about it in some online review.

You can buy Magnalube from Amazon.com.

 

[9mmepiphany]

That didn't exactly answer my question, but do appreciate the extra info.

I would be interested in knowing WHAT is being worn by using the Wolff springs that don't also wear when other springs start to lose their resiliency...

Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought you wanted an explanation of the compression quality/rate between the two types of springs.

The wear difference is in the wear on the slide rails. It was worst with the folded slides as there is a twisting element to the slide deformation in recoil

 

[Walt Sherrill]

The wear difference is in the wear on the slide rails. It was worst with the folded slides as there is a twisting element to the slide deformation in recoil

Interesting. That may explain why there's not much info available about the problem, as all of the other guns that I know of that use twisted springs have forged slides. '

I suspect, too, that the guns affected have high-round count guns before the problem makes itself visible.

If I talk with Bruce Gray in the future, I'll try to remember to ask more about the problem. Thanks for the extra details.

I was going to send a gun to Bruce for his magic a month or two ago, but with shipping ($100 one way to Washington State from here), the tuneup cost almost as much as some new guns -- and I brought a very nice used gun with two conversion barrels for about the same amount. It was a hard choice.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I was going to send a gun to Bruce for his magic a month or two ago, but with shipping ($100 one way to Washington State from here), the tuneup cost almost as much as some new guns -- and I brought a very nice used gun with two conversion barrels for about the same amount. It was a hard choice.

If you attend one of his shooting classes, he'll be happy to take your gun back to the shop with him after the class. I used to handle that when I used to travel with him, we'd regularly take back guns from ~ 30% of the students