Silver solder ok for bolt handle?

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JesseL

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I've got a mauser that needs a bent bolt handle. Since I'm not really set up for welding, is silver solder adequately strong for attaching a new handle? If not, I was considering drilling and tapping the bolt and putting a contersunk hole in the handle to bolt it on and then filling it all in with silver solder.
 
Silver solder isn't strong enough to attach a Mauser handle.

Where brazing is used on bolt's is when the handle has a collar-like extension that wraps partially around the bolt.
The extra area provides enough contact to give a strong enough bond.
A simple silver solder job will peel right off the first time you have a sticky case.

The drill and tap bolt handle is sold in a kit form from SOG or one of the other surplus distributors.

I would not recommend filling the hole with silver solder, simply because it won't add any real strength, and the excess heat is NOT good for bolts.
With the drill and tap, silver solder or no, the strength relies on the attaching bolt itself.

I'd rather look at using a fitted cap of some sort that can be epoxied in place.

Take note, while the drill and tap LOOKS like a good idea, it's really not very strong, and it's common for them to break off with a sticky case.

A better option would be to send your bolt to E.R. Shaw and have them bend your handle for you.

Shaw has advertised in The Shotgun News for many years, and do inexpensive re-barreling, Magnum action conversions, AND bending of bolt handles.... CHEAP.
http://www.ershawbarrels.com/
 
Low temperature silver solder [ 400 F] is NOT suitable as it is very weak. High temperature silver solder is stronger but really not suitable either .Welding is the proper way assuming it's a good weld. I prefer bending.
 
Well, here's the deal (and I used to do ALOT of welding/brazing etc., MIG, TIG, all that stuff).

High-temp silver solder CAN BE very, very strong. BUT, you need a near perfect matchup of the pieces. In other words, if you try to use it as a "filler" for gaps, it'll be much weaker. If you have 2 surfaces that mate up really well, it can be quite strong.

Now, I sporterized a Turk Mauser and had to do extensive work on the bolt handle, as I'm using large diameter scope, and still it barely clears. But I used a combination of Bending and Welding (Brazing actually).

I cut a V-shaped section away (w/ a hand grinder), where I wanted it to bend, then heated and bent it (using one of those Mapp gas torches---NOT ideal but it worked.) then brazed it together. I had to do the same on the other end (in order to work the bolt I had to make it kinda S-shaped, so I could get ahold of the bolt head. And I still had to grind some off some of the bolt for clearance, so its "flattened". Did this about 4 years ago, and its worked fine.

If I can find my digital camera (my kid dorrowed it.) I'll post a picture.
 
The highest strength for high temp silver solder [braze] is achieved with a .003" gap ,this is also what is needed for proper filling of the gap by capillary action.
 
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