Single-Six questions

[ID_shooting]

In my search for a .22 plinker/atv/anti-snake/varmint gun, I happened upon a Single-Six that was in need of a good home. It had been abused (some slight holster-rust on the outside of the cylinder and barrel but 100% good lock-up and action) by the previous owner and like most "pound guns" just needs some TLC and it will become a trusty companion.

On the sales tag, the dealer wrote "pre-warning" in the comments section. Per Ruger, the revo was made in '74 and it seems to be no different than the "modern" versions only 30 years old.

Is there anything special, other than it doesn't say "read the manual before shooting" about this gun?

OH, what do you think was a fair price?

 

[Tacoma]

Just an educated guess here but what you likely have is one of the origional "3 screw' versions. It doesn't have the transfer bar safety and therefor should technicly be carried with the hammer on a empty cylinder UNLESS it has been back to the factory for the free safety upgrade. ( Ruger issued a recall/warning way back on these) Safety asside , the older models usually have better triggers and have that nice 1/2 cock position for loading/unloading (it alligns cyl with loading gate.) The new model single sixes all have the new safety but loose the 1/2 cock. There are a few other less important differences as well. I myself have several of both ( old/new) and will not send the old ones in for "upgrade". There actions are just too sweet the way they are

Hard to tell value based on what info you've given. Does it have the 22 mag cyl as well? How much rust and blue wear? scratches? grips?
FWIW, Based on my experieice, a "fair-good condition one with 1 cyl would be worth maybe $120-150 or so around here. Add $50 for the other cyl.

You picked a good model in any case. Enjoy it!

 

[Old Fuff]

The Single Six came in two flavors. The "Old Model" can be identified by looking at the right side of the frame. If you see three screws that's what you have, and it should always be carried with the hammer resting opposite an empty chamber, because the safety isn't safe.

The "New Model" has two pins in place of the three screws, so there are no screw heads to see in the side of the frame. These have a transfer bar safety and can be carried fully loaded without risk.

If you have a New Model without the warning on the barrel you are lucky because it's worth a little more. Many owners of Ruger revolvers consider that warning to be an insult, and some hate it so much they won't buy a Ruger that is so marked. However in this era of bottom-feeding lawyers Ruger doesn't have much choice.

 

[George S.]

Ruger will upgrade the older 3-screw model at no cost to you if you wish to send it back to them. They will also fit the other cylinder to it (whether or not its the LR or Mag cylinder) if you don't have one, but if you send it in for that work, they will do the safety upgrade automatically. I had read that Ruger will return the old parts with the revolver.

One nice thing about the Ruger "warranty" is that it doesn't make any difference if you are the original purchaser or the 14th, they will do any needed repairs at no cost.

I have a NM Single-Six with a 6 1/2" barrel that I bought as my first handgun back in 1978. It's the one handgun that I will never sell or get rid of. I can get groups under 1 1/2" at 25 yds with a sandbag rest using either cylinder. Cheap to shoot and after years of shooting the trigger is very smooth.

 

[12GA]

New model with the 6 1/2 bbl and Mag cylinder in place

 

[ID_shooting]

It only came w/ the LR cylider but the smith at the shop said he had a mag cylinder he would fit for me. What should I pay for such an item?

It is a "two screw" "new model", or at least that is what it says on the side. The only markings on the barrel is the name and location of ruger. No warning at all.

I paid $125.00

 

[kyoung05]

Just for fun, look underneath the frame in front of the trigger gaurd to see if there is either a star marking or an arrow inscribed there. If so, you have either an "S" or "RS" model, meaning it is worth much more. Here is a link explaining the differences. http://www.rugermania.com/CF/CollectorsNews/StoryDetail.cfm?StoryID=11

 

[ID_shooting]

I dont see any marks like you describe, but I may not be looking in the right place, BTW, your link is dead

 

[Tacoma]

@$125, I'd say you did good. BE advised that Ruger will retrofit the other cyl for $55 but they will also retrofit the trigger to the latest horrible standard too. Old parts are not returned. I'd vote you shoot it as is and enjoy.

 

[kyoung05]

Sorry about the link, the guy that maintained it passed away between the time I last looked at it and now. The marks, if there are any, would be underneath the frame, just in front of the trigger gaurd. Hm, imagine holding the gun in a normal grip, and wrapping your index finger around the front of the trigger gaurd instead of inside it (hypothetically, of course, as you'd have to have freakishly long fingers to do this). The top of your index finger would be resting underneath the mark, again, if there is any.

On another note, when you cock the hammer, do you hear/feel 4 clicks? Or does it just go from being completely up to down? If you do feel the 4 clicks, then you have an old model, without the tranfer-bar safety, and should be carried with 5 shots, hammer down on the empty chamber. When I last handled an old model, the grip frame also seemed smaller than the new models. (kind of like an original XR3 grip-frame).

 

[Aguila Blanca]

If the gun you have is a three-screw model, it's your call whether or not to keep it that way. I have two Single Sixes, one is a shooter and the anniversary edition I keep NIB. The one I shoot is also a "new" model, and I enjoy shooting it, but I wish it were an old model. There's just something wrong about a six-gun that looks like a Colt Model 73 that doesn't go CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK when you pull back the hammer.

I have no idea what Ruger charges for a cylinder, but I bought a .45ACP conversion cylinder for an Uberti Colt '73 clone and IIRC I paid $65 plus tax and shipping for the cylinder. I fitted it myself and it took me a couple of hours. I imagine a good smith would need about an hour, so figure that as the labor cost at whatever your guy charges.

 

[ID_shooting]

Thank for all the info guys, it is certainly a new model, w/ the transfer bar, no star iether. The smith did have an extra cylinder, but it is .357, not much good in my .22, bummer. Now the search for a good used one on the net begins.

We did tear it down and cleaned/polished the innerds. Nice and smooth. We put in a spring kits, having some difficulity witht he trigger spring so we put that one off till later.

Got to shoot it Sunday, at least till I started freezing up. Shoots nice with AE ammo. about 2 inch at 30 yards off hand and colder than ****.

Still buffing out the holster spots, will post picks when I get it back together and cleaned up.

 

[NEtracker]

Now that I've seen 12GA's pic of the 6-1/2, I want one of those!
I was thinkin' of getting the 5-1/2.