Slug questions...

[LRShooting]

I have a Mossberg 500 with a 28 inch shotgun barrel and a 24 inch rifled slugmaster barrel. I picked up some rifled slugs, but I can't use them in my rifled barrel without worrying about fouling. I can't seem to find any nonrifled slugs.

My main concern is cost. I can't afford to be spending 2-3 bucks a shot for sabots. Remington sluggers can go as low as 3-4 bucks depending on where you get them for a 5 pack. Anybody know where I can find some (1) nonrifled slugs or (2) sabots that aren't ridiculously expensive.

My 308 can do the job, but slugs work better in the brush for deer hunting especially since I can hold 6 rnds opposed to 4 in my 308 and can cycle faster. Besides, 308 is more dedicated to longer range shots. Its hard to follow deer in brush when they are just a few yards away with a scope.

Thanks!

 

[blarby]

My main concern is cost. I can't afford to be spending 2-3 bucks a shot for sabots.

Thats the trade you make for a 70 caliber rifle, when you buy storebought ammo.

Smoothbores aren't going to be anywhere near as effective beyond 40 yards, unless you REALLY like bullet drop.

I suggest beginning to load your own. Sabot slugs are unbelievably easy to cast and load on your own.

 

[Water-Man]

I use Brenneke KO Slugs in my smoothbore and rifled barrels.

They come in five and twenty five round boxes at a dollar and change per.

 

[PapaG]

Lyman sabotslugs cast from whatever lead you have and loaded with shotshell plastic wads will not lead and in five guns so far have given 2 1/2" or better at fifty yards for me.

 

[illinoisburt]

Here in Illinois we are mandated to use shotgun slugs for deer season. If 25 years of slug hunting has taught me anything, use a rifle instead if it's legal! Accuracy and terminal ballistics are VASTLY better with any centerfire rifle using appropriate bullets. For your 308, stick with any of the non-bonded soft 150 grain bullets and heart/lung shots for deer.

I assume you have a variable power scope since that is pretty much the standard now - turn down the magnifaction to under 4X and keep it there except when you are taking a long shot. You'll be amazed the difference it makes in picking out targets at short range. Or for that matter you can always ditch the scope and use iron sights.

Regardless whether using shotgun slug, pistol, or rifle busting brush is a bad idea. Even if the projectile is not knocked off course, it will be deformed and likely tumbling when it hits your target meaning you have no idea what it will do - expand, break apart, deflect, tumble?

In my experience slugs have perform pretty much all the same (accuracy varies). Big chunks of lead that usually drive a 1 inch hole straight through unless you happen to hit the shoulder just right, then a fist sized exit. I have yet to see an expanded recovered shotgun slug in real life even back when we had the madatory check stations.

There is nothing wrong with shooting remington sluggers or any of the other rifled slugs through your rifled barrel. The amount of fouling is very little and accuracy is ok, though not a good as you would get with a sabot. Rifled slugs do not spin on their own. The spirals are solely to help the slug expand to seal the barrel.

You might not see much slug variety there in MO. Cross the river into Illinois - the shelves are full of huge assortments of slugs. Reasonable cost on sabots is around $1.50 each for Remington and Winchester. You can certainly spend a lot more, but havent seen much cheaper commercially.

 

[Virginian]

Shoot rifled slugs out of your non rifled barrel. I'm assuming you don't need to buy that many expensive sabots for hunting.

 

[oneounceload]

Sabots are for rifled barrels. regular slugs are for smoothbore barrels

 

[jmr40]

There is nothing wrong with using the 308. There isn't a shotgun made I'd prefer over my bolt rifles at ranges close enough to leave powder burns on a deer's hide. It is just a matter of developing the skills needed to make the shots

If you want to shoot cheaper slugs, use them with the 28" barrel. But even spending $2-$3 per shot is cheaper than buying a new gun or barrel.

 

[Liberty1776]

If by rifled slug, you are referring to the lead blob with some grooves on the sides - ? - they are the same as a non-rifled slug. Both are just versions of the old punkin ball... the sabot is for a rifled bbl. Anything else will lead up a rifled bbl. (Unless - and this is always possible - there is something new out that I am unfamiliar with...)

 

[Pete D.]

Good suggestions: load your own. Lyman slugs, plastic wads, normal plastic hulls, an appropriate powder, 209 primers....you are good to go. You can do this with very few tools and end up with quite usable ammo.
I believe that you can buy the Lyman slugs.
Better yet - or as good - use LRBs. Lead balls at .690"/.715" should work nicely out to 50 yards.



This is a .690 LRB loaded on top of a BPI Light Brush Wad and two gas seals. IIRC the powder is SR 7625. Roll crimped.