Fat Boy
. . . I have been interested in a lightweight .38 spec s&w, so today I stopped at the local range and rented a 642 s&w.
I fired 50 rounds of 148 grain wadcutter reloads (required by the range that I shoot their bullets).
My hand may never recover...I'm not saying someone shouldn't get a 642, I'm saying I'm not comfortable with the recoil, and if I had bought one before shooting it, I would be looking to trade it, or put it in the drawer...
Hi Fat Boy,
Geez . . . that ought to be MY nickname!
The key to shooting any revolver, but especially the really light ones, is to keep a very high, and very firm grip on the firearm with your dominant hand. (Actually, this is important when shooting any defensive powered handgun, but the failure to do so gets hugely magnified when using light handguns!!!)
--The high grip gets the impact area on the hand higher up to near the actual bore axis of the gun.
--This is good because it transfers the recoil energy directly back, and then down your arm.
A lower grip, like I see lots of new shooters use, causes violent recoil and muzzle flip, plus a nasty, torquing twist to the wrist and gun. NOT PLEASANT! Plus, fast and accurate follow up shots are impossible without the proper technique.
I'd recommend that you go back to the range and try again with a high grip. Also, use a very firm "pull" with your weak hand, as it grasps that outside of your three fingers gripping the gun below the trigger finger.
Combining this technique will take any excess slack out of your arm and wrist, further transfering the recoil as just a firm push against and down your arm.
Doing so will make 148 grain wadcutter quite pleasant to shoot in a 442/642/637/37/38/etc. lightweight! It will also make the stout defensive loads, which kick a lot harder, also not too bad either! THE KEY IS A FIRM, HIGH GRIP!
Keeping things slack is a lot like shooting a stout 12 gauge shotgun without having the butt FIRMLY on the shoulder!
Hope this helps!
T.