Small radius firing pin stop for 1911s

[Greg528iT]

Hate to side track this but

preventing firing out of battery isn't the function of the disconnect

What is it's function then? I thought that is what it was for.

At work so can't measure it.. but from memory, I'd say 0.010" is about what I have.
I really think the radius on the FPS, is what helps cam the connector down. Not it's function.. but the lack of a radius causes the hiccup. 2 radii work better together than 1 and 1 sharp edge.

 

[VetPsychWars]

Hate to side track this but


What is it's function then? I thought that is what it was for.

At work so can't measure it.. but from memory, I'd say 0.010" is about what I have.
I really think the radius on the FPS, is what helps cam the connector down. Not it's function.. but the lack of a radius causes the hiccup. 2 radii work better together than 1 and 1 sharp edge.

If I may... the disconnector is the thing that prevents the pistol from firing full auto. If you hold the trigger back during cycling, the disconnector "disconnects" it from the sear, so the sear resets and you actually have to let go of the trigger before the trigger reconnects to the sear again before you can fire the pistol again.

Trying to pull the trigger with the slide a little ways back is how you test that the disconnector isn't broken, but that's not why it's there.

Tom

 

[Greg528iT]

AH........

OK, I won't be removing it.. in case anyone is reading this.

 

[1911Tuner]

What is its function, then?

The disconnect's function is to bridge the gap between the trigger and the sear so the gun can fire, then to get out of the way and recreate the gap so the sear can reset. A side effect of that function is keeping the gun from firing with the slide out of battery, but that's all it is.

If I may... the disconnector is the thing that prevents the pistol from firing full auto.

Nope. It's a myth that filing the top of the disconnect flat will turn the 1911 into a machine gun. The hammer will fail to cock and ride the slide back down...but it won't burst-fire.

 

[Walkalong]

To fire full auto it would have to have a slight hesitation before falling (each time) to keep it from just following the slide back forward, ala an auto sear.

Not that a bang/bang can't happen, it can, but just exactly how I am not sure. Out of spec parts (As in more than one) I reckin'.

 

[flightsimmer]

Speaking of full auto! I bought a brand new Colt Gold Cup National Match years ago and took it to the range where I worked and loaded a full magazine of .45 auto into it and proceeded to take my first shot where upon it went full auto and emptied the whole magazine into the backstop and ceiling over my head, needless to say I never loaded a full mag in a new gun again.
I took it back to where I bought because they had a full time gunsmith and he fixed whatever was wrong with it but it was a long time before I ever loaded a full mag in it again.

 

[1911Tuner]

To fire full auto it would have to have a slight hesitation before falling (each time) to keep it from just following the slide back forward, ala an auto sear.

This.

The hammer has to hold at full cock and jar off as the slide goes home. Otherwise, the slide just lowers the hammer at slide velocity, and that's not enough.

 

[VetPsychWars]

Today I received and installed a Cylinder and Slide 1914 reproduction firing pin stop on my October 1918 Model of 1911. It required just a little taken off of one side because the slot in the extractor wasn't deep enough. Requires a bit of a push to get it on now but no hammer needed.

I hand-cycled the pistol a couple of times and I was incredulous... this tiny bit of added resistance caused an ordnance change? Really? How were these people cocking this gun that they couldn't do it with the small-radius stop?!

In any event... with that and the Gold Cup (aka 14lb) recoil spring, I'm eager to test fire. My purpose in making these changes is to be able to fire this pistol when I feel like it and have the slide not bang so much opening and closing. Slower is better!

I've also ordered the EGW stop (in stainless) and with any luck it won't be so oversize that I can't make it fit my Remington R1S using files and stones.

Tom

 

[Fred_G]

OK, put an EGW firing pin stop in my R1-S Remington 1911. Seems to require a bit more force to cycle the slide. Function checks work.

 

[VetPsychWars]

OK, put an EGW firing pin stop in my R1-S Remington 1911. Seems to require a bit more force to cycle the slide. Function checks work.

How much fitting did you need to do?

 

[Fred_G]

How much fitting did you need to do?

Not sure how to rate it. Say an hour or 2 with some files and a micrometer to get close, some fin sandpaper for the rounded edge.

Note: I am not a Gunsmith, just like to play around sometimes. I am curious how it will shoot.

 

[DHart]

This is a fantastic thread! And many thanks to you, Tuner - my old friend from many years back! You have helped me so much by teaching me about 1911's. (You sent me your complete 1911 tutorial, back when email was in the early days.) I have had a lot of 1911s over the years and your instruction has been essential in helping me to make and keep them running well. 1911s are not like today's tupperwear pistols that seem to run no matter what you feed or do to them, they really do need understanding and "tuning" to run just right. This thread on small radius/flat bottom firing pin stops really nails the dynamics of the cycling and timing of a 1911.

And it so happens that tonight I fitted an oversized EGW FPS to one of my Colt Commanders that suffered from slide-over-round jam when running premium full-power defense loads. The mag couldn't keep up with the slide. The recoil spring was already on the light side, so I decided to go with the new FPS. I expect the new FPS with a verrrry small radius on it will do the job.

Many thanks!

BTW, I've told you this before, but it's worth repeating... your signature tag line about dogs is exceptionally meaningful to me. And reminds me to give every bit of loving attention that I can to my pup in his declining time.

 

[Delmar]

I saw Tuner's mention of a flat FPS on another forum a while back and decided to try it. Bought the EGW brand and after just a bit of filing, worked and continues to work very well. I don't have a sense of perceived recoil reduction, but for whatever reason, there seems to be less muzzle flip-the impulse seems to be more back in my hand than back and up. It is particularly welcomed on my Colt Compact model with near max loads.

I was fully prepared to go to lighter recoil springs on my Government and Trophy Match models because I figured that it might not allow reliable function with light target loads, but that has not been the case. I wondered if my springs needed to be changed and ordered a pack from Wolff, but the target loads function pretty much as before. The ejection distance is shorter than before and because it tightened up the extractor in the deal, is much more consistent.