Smith 28-2 - How'd I do?

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Quoheleth

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I kind of fell into this one this morning on Gunbroker - a Smith 28-2 N-frame .357 Magnum. High bid was $275. On a whim and a whirl I threw down a $280 bid that stuck. Add $25 for S&H and another $20 for FFL and I have a used N-frame for just over $325.

Per the S&W DOB thread, she's a '64 or '65 model. From the pics you can see it's been used and shows holster wear. Description said it's been reblued. It's seen some use, that's for sure.

Whatcha think? For $280 (auction price) did I do OK?

Q
 
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There appears to be a lot of wear on the finish but that is not important as long as there is no rust and the action is sound.

I say you practically stole them! :)
 
I'd consider that a good deal, if it shoots like a 28 ought to.
 
As long as everything checks out okay, and the wear and tear is mainly cosmetic, I would say for the money, you did great.
 
I can tell by the pics it is an unsafe gun...please send it to me for proper disposal. I offer this as a public service.

Seriously I think you made out like a bandit. If it is a reblue at least whoever did the work went very easy with the buffing, letters and engravings all look sharp. We await a range report.
 
Nice. You will enjoy it. Even if you pay to re-blue it, it will still be a deal. Congrats.
 
I'm with 451 Deltonics but...

I'd hate to see you get hurt in the deal. I''ll take it off your hands for $350.

If you are smart you'll never get rid of that revolver. Best shooter I've got in .357 and I have several.
 
You asked so I'll answer. If the gun has been shot as much as it (has obviously) beenn carried, and if the mechanics are anything like the cosmetics, it's not a good deal.

But if it was merely carried by, say a cop, and the lockup, timing, etc, are good, then you did ok.

It's impossible to tell from the pictures.
 
Yeah, it all comes down to how tight the timing is. If it's a case of carried constantly and shot moderately so the timing is good then you got a superb deal. If not then I'd pay for the parts and work to restore the timing and live with the patina and it would still be a good but not quite as great deal.
 
I hate to see you get hosed like that. WAY TOO much money.

You are in luck though...I need some weights for my trot line so I will bail you out. Let me know when and where and I will show up with the cash.
 
Well, yeah, sure - it'll depend on how it checks out. But, I figured for that kind of money even if I have to put a little into it, it's not bad. I may be wrong of course...

To me, it looked like a holster or truck gun - lots of wear on the muzzle and one spot on the cylinder on the left but not so much on the right. I'll find out in about a week and I'll post up a range report as soon as I can put together a batch of my favorite .357 loads and get out to shoot them.

Thanks for all the "caring" souls who are concerned about my purchase and offered to buy it out from me! :D

Q
 
nice 4 incher. looks like it has some honest wear.

even if you send it to S&W and pay to have a tue up and action job your still money ahead. you did fine.
 
Don't refinish it because then you will have spent a total of $525 on a $400 gun.

And, unfortunately, that always seems to be the rub on these kinds of projects. So I agree: savor the "character" and forego the lipstick.
You got a very nice buy on a very good revolver.
 
Good news! Picked it up yesterday from my FFL. She looks pretty rough, but she passes the "Revolver Checkout" test. There's a tad bit of side-to-side cylinder movement at full lock up (not "bank vault tight") but it's acceptable to me. There's no fore & aft movement, which is definitely good news. Bore is not pristine, but rifling looks clear and sharp. No rust anywhere that I can see. Screw heads are not boogered at all.

It looks to me like this was someone's truck gun. There's wear on the cylinder at the spot where it makes contact with any surface and the wear is surface scratches, not rubbing/chafing like a holster would do. Sadly, there is also about a 2 1/2" long spot on the right side of the barrel where it says ".357 Magnum" and "Highway Patrolman." From the pic, I thought it was glare/reflection --- nope, it's steel. Wood is definitely darkened with use and oil and has its fair share of scuffs and scratches and a couple small chips.

Dry-firing, the action is smooth like any good N-frame should be. Single action is very crisp. I'm thinking I'll take the grips off and use a can of gun scrubber and blast into the various openings in the gun and see how much crud runs out. Then hit it with compressed air and follow with a short squirt of CLP to keep it all oiled up. Sound like a plan?

I'm curious how it shoots. Maybe this weekend it'll clear up that I can get out and give it a whirl. Question for you reloaders: as this is on the N-frame and back in the days when the .357 was loaded up hotter than a depot stove, the gun should be able to handle more than my wrist, right? In other words I can challenge myself a bit with higher end (but below Ruger Only) velocities?

I will try to get some pics up this evening to better show off it's beauty marks.

Q
 
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Re the loads. The 28 will handle even maximum charges.

The problem that I would hear concerning the 28 had to do with rapid double action work. The cylinder is so massive and the cylinder stop/cylinder stop lever so small that constant rapid double action work screwed up the timing.

But I can't remember anyone ever blowing one up using only recommended loads. Now, toss in a double or triple charged load of Bullseye, and that might be different. Exciting. But different.
 
a tad bit of side-to-side cylinder movement at full lock up
Normal on a Smith (most anyway)
There's no fore & aft movement, which is definitely good news.
Sure is. great pick up. Bluing type cosmetics don't stop a gun from shooting, and are relatively inexpensive to fix. My 6" 28-2 is probably not as nice as yours, but shoots real well and is a range favorite of mine. It has some Sile (I think) grips on it that fit me just right.
 
just took my recently acquired early 70s 6 inch 28-2 out to some BLM land with my dad on wednesday. dude i bought it from told me he had it tuned for some competetions. whatever. loaded up some cheapy blazer aluminum 158s and threw some aluminum cans out at 15-25 yards. made em bounce each time, including a bunch of times some double action. this ones a keeper.

dont sweat the condition of the finish. and while i would shoot thousands of ruger only loads. a few cylinders each time at the range to see where they shoot wont kill it if thats your hunting or SD load.
 
I recently traded into a 28-2, and was considering a re-blue. But,I decided to leave it alone, and put the money into another one ( I REALLY like this pistol). I'm looking at a couple 28's on-line right now, and am hitting a local show tomorrow morning. Wish me luck !!! :D
 
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