Smith 686 vs. 686+

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Ok, so call me a dumbarse if so need be, but if you can have a 6-shot cylinder fitted to the 7-shot gun, could you not get a 7-shot cylinder fitted for the 6-shot gun?

Good question. No reason why not.

OTOH, instead of buying the parts and paying the smith, I'd just add a little more to the cost of conversion and buy a used 7 shot, and play with two toys.
 
Ok, so call me a dumbarse if so need be, but if you can have a 6-shot cylinder fitted to the 7-shot gun, could you not get a 7-shot cylinder fitted for the 6-shot gun?

By necessity, I would think the timing of the two would be slightly different. In fact, I think the 7 shooter has a slightly shorter trigger pull as a result, though I cannot detect it.

My 7 shooter:


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Ok, so call me a dumbarse if so need be, but if you can have a 6-shot cylinder fitted to the 7-shot gun, could you not get a 7-shot cylinder fitted for the 6-shot gun?
Well, basically that's what S&W did and they called it 686 Plus...

KKG (from the S&W forum) is back in business as a gunsmith locally
Thanks, Bryan, it's a welcome news. This area could use a good revolversmith. Good for him - he'll be swamped with orders...

Mike
 
This might make Confederates stomach turn....

As long as we are talking interchangable cylinders, I always thought this would lighten up a 686 or 619/620 for mountain hiking;
http://www.speedshooterspecialties....son+Revolver&subcategories=Titanium+Cylinders

I've never shot a 10 shot S&W 617, but I imagine if that trigger pull does not feel any shorter than the 6 shooter then a 7 shooter shouldn't feel any different.
 
In a 6-shot revolver cylinder rotates by 60 degrees between the shots; in 7-shot - by 51 deg; in 8-shot - by 45. Shooter does not have to feel it IF the lockwork was designed for the type of cylinder used. I fired 8-shot 627 and to me the pull felt same as normal 6 shot. But if the same lockwork is used (as in 686 and 686 Plus) then 7-shot cylinder lock point will be much shorter than in 6-shot.

Mike
 
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