Smith and Wesson Model 1905 38: Loose Barrel

[B O]

Good evening folks!

I've recently inherited a Smith and Wesson Model 1905 in 38spcl manufactured in 1929. It has quite a bit of finish wear, but the cylinder timing is perfect. The only real issue with it, is a lose barrel that will wiggle when pressure is put on it. I want to get this revolver back into shooting condition if possible, but have no idea where to begin on tightening a revolver barrel or if it's even possible? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

PS - Called S&W directly, but they only work on firearms manufactured after 1958.

 

[Sistema1927]

Wiggle? Side to side? If so, then the problem could be the barrel, the frame, or both.

Should be something that any competent local smith can diagnose and possibly fix.

 

[beag_nut]

Sounds like an interesting problem. As Sistema said, a gunsmith should be the absolute first place to visit (and NOT a bubba-smith).

 

[mnrivrat]

OK I will bite --- explain wiggle ? does it rotate a bit , or does it actually wiggle from side to side or up and down. (or both)

 

[243winxb]

If you can remove the barrel, Loctite Threadlocker Red 271. It was used on old Ithaca slug guns with the permanently fixed barrel.

To remove, it takes 500 F degrees heat.

 

[Sistema1927]

If you can remove the barrel, Loctite Threadlocker Red 271. It was used on old Ithaca slug guns with the permanently fixed barrel.

To remove, it takes 500 F degrees heat.

You did read the OP where he said that he didn't have a clue as to what was going on, right? Maybe a bit of diagnosis is in order prior to advising to slather on the Loc-Tite.

 

[243winxb]

Any help would be greatly appreciated

I read it and provided my 2 cents.

Should be something that any competent local smith can diagnose and possibly fix.

Take to a gun smith. Now thats real help.

 

[Sistema1927]

Take to a gun smith. Now thats real help.

More helpful than yours.

If I was sick and didn't know what my problem was I would go to the doctor. I would not take the same medicine that someone else took for different symptoms.

 

[243winxb]

tightening a revolver barrel

A cup tip punch is used to remove the barrel pin. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...th-tools/punches/cup-tip-punches-prod656.aspx

With the barrel removed from the frame, look for any cracks. A cracked frame may let the barrel appear loose. Loctite will not fix this.

If barrel loosness is from corrosion of the threads, clean and add Locktite, install barrel.

Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

 

[shooter1niner]

I would not take it to just any gunsmith. I would look for one who specializes in revolvers...

 

[243winxb]

Loctite on barrel threads.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/ruger-redhawk-barrel-failures.224251/

there was a run of this back in the 1980s when we first started making stainless magnums. Ruger had a few dozen guns come back when I was there. All were traced to one guy on night shift who was over-torquing barrels on Redhawks which didn't quite line up, instead of taking a pass off the front of the frame on a Blanchard grinder as he should have done. He also used a wrong, slippery high sulphur thread lubricant intended for chrome-moly instead of the specific anti-seize compound used with SS.

This condition is aggravated by tight fit of barrel threads, such as whenusing a class 3A, combined with high stress, high temperature, and high barrel torque. Ruger fixed their problem by changing to a looser 2A fit on the barrel threads and assembling barrels to the frames using a Loctite product to cement them solidly while reducing stress on the threads and positively preventing any seepage of cleaning solvents into the barrel threads after they left the factory.

see post #3 at link.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

If the barrel wiggles (as opposed to ROTATING) in the frame, it is almost certainly a cracked frame, or at least, heavily damaged threads.

If it rotates by hand in the frame, as if you were unscrewing it, it may also be a cracked frame and/or a bent or missing barrel retainer pin. Is there a hole clean through the gun in the frame just above the barrel? If so the retaining pin is missing and needs to be replaced. This would be the best case scenario.

Most of the others I can think of would relegate the weapon to paperweight status......

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

barrel loosness is from corrosion of the threads, clean and add Locktite, install barrel.

Respectfully, if the threads are so badly corroded as to allow the barrel to wiggle about in the frame, then there is most likely not enough steel left there for safe firing, even if loctite makes it seem sturdier when dried.

 

[Sistema1927]

Respectfully, if the threads are so badly corroded as to allow the barrel to wiggle about in the frame, then there is most likely not enough steel left there for safe firing, even if loctite makes it seem sturdier when dried.

Glad that there is at least one other person who agrees with me. Diagnosis first, which should be in the hands of a qualified gunsmith, then repair, if possible.

 

[243winxb]

I dont think the OP cares. Nor do i.

B O was last seen:

Tuesday at 8:55 PM

 

[beag_nut]

I guess we have reached the limits of the OP's comprehension/courtesy.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Want to fix it yourself? Do you have a revolver wrench with the right inserts for a S&W? How about a barrel vise with the right diameter barrel blocks? If you don’t want to spend the money, don’t bother to do it yourself. You can take a revolver repair class where the tools mat be available to you.

If no to both suggestions, take it to a gunsmith.