Darth-Vang
Member
Which one should I get? I have not bought a AR-15 before. Not really sure what qualities I should be looking for? What makes a good AR a good AR? I’ve no clue when it comes to AR.
Smith & Wesson Sport 2 or Ruger AR 5.56?
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WestKentucky
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The S&W and ruger are both really nice entry level guns. If you think you want a free float rail, but the ruger that already has it. Ruger is known for overtightening the barrel nut and I broke an armorers wrench trying to free the nut on mine. If you want clamshell handguards, I like the ruger a touch better. The screw style delta ring is much better than the standard spring gizmo.
I don't think either is a bad choice. I have friends with the Smith and they are happy. I have 2 Rugers, but not the basic AR. I have the MPR and one of the Ruger AR pistols. I like them both a lot.
https://ruger.com/products/ar556MPR/specSheets/8514.html
https://ruger.com/products/ar556Pistol/specSheets/8570.html
https://ruger.com/products/ar556MPR/specSheets/8514.html
https://ruger.com/products/ar556Pistol/specSheets/8570.html
You’re new to AR’s. It won’t likely be your last. Were I just starting out in the AR game and wanted a complete rifle to start, I’d choose the Ruger based on customer service alone. Which ever one you get, spend some time on YouTube and learning your weapon. They are incredibly simple to disassemble and customize.
AlexanderA
Member
The Ruger AR 556 (standard version) has some weird departures from the military norm. For example, it has a bayonet lug, but the distance from the bayonet lug to the flash hider is too long for it to mount a standard bayonet. Makes you wonder why they included a bayonet lug at all. It's this sort of sloppy thinking that makes me question the product in general.
If you can find a stripped S&W M&P lower receiver, buy it and build your own. (I like the classy S&W roll stamp.) Or, just get an Anderson (Poverty Pony) lower and do the same. Assembling an AR is easy as pie.
If you can find a stripped S&W M&P lower receiver, buy it and build your own. (I like the classy S&W roll stamp.) Or, just get an Anderson (Poverty Pony) lower and do the same. Assembling an AR is easy as pie.
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FL-NC
Member
Whichever one you like. They are both entry level AR's of "mid" quality, which is more than adequate for almost everyone, for every use. I put them at the same level as the standard issue mil M4. If I had to choose, I would choose the one with the cheaper price.
robert4301
Member
I have both. The M&P Sport II has somewhat better fit and finish and a much better trigger. Both have been 100% reliable and accuracy on both is very good. I would not hesitate to buy the Ruger if it was what was available but the S&W would my first choice.
Tommygunn
Member
Ford vs. Chevy.
I have both, like an earlier poster. I like the Ruger a little more, but truth be told they're both really equal in most important ways. They're said to be "entry level" but don't let it fool you into thinking they're not good quality guns. They don't have a lot of bells and whistles as top tier guns have but they can handle anything we mere mortals can ask of them.
Buy the one you like the most.
I have both, like an earlier poster. I like the Ruger a little more, but truth be told they're both really equal in most important ways. They're said to be "entry level" but don't let it fool you into thinking they're not good quality guns. They don't have a lot of bells and whistles as top tier guns have but they can handle anything we mere mortals can ask of them.
Buy the one you like the most.
stevekozak
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Do you find yourself putting bayonets on your AR's often? And if so, for what precise purpose?
AlexanderA
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I don't, but I believe that if a gun is designed with any purpose in mind, it should follow that purpose. For example, if a Galil is designed to include a bottle opener, by God it should be a functional bottle opener. If a Sharps includes a coffee mill, it should be a functional coffee mill. In any case, if a gun has a bayonet lug, the lug should be functional. Otherwise, what's it there for?
Blnt4rcetrauma
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Bayonet is for when you are close quarters. I’m looking for an appropriate bayonet for my sport 2
AlexanderA
Member
The M7, as a pure bayonet and fighting dagger. The M9 is "a jack of all trades and master of none." Besides, it's too heavy and awkward.
One of the unheralded uses for a bayonet is as an impromptu gun rack. Just stick the bayonet-mounted rifle in the ground.
DustyGmt
Member
I agree. Although I could certainly look past it. I dont have the ruger but I like the CHF bbl aspect of it, aside from that my buddy had one and didn't keep it because of some issue, I cant recall what it was but I recall him complaining about something with it. Wish I could think of what it was.
Anyway, I have the sport and can personally attest to its quality. No problems except I had to replace the gas rings a lil sooner than I expected, might have been running it too hard one day but one of the rings split. No biggie. Rings are like $3 to replace. It also has a melonited 4140 bbl. Wish it was 4150 but I'll probably never shoot it out. Its accurate and I too like the S&W roll mark. It's a beast, and for a while you could get them for under $500. Bananas. Such a good weapon. IV8888 does a meltdown test and it holds up as well as any other under sustained FA fire.... it's just a good quality weapon and I think you'll find most people who have them think very highly of them.
Mosin Bubba
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Whichever one you can find in stock.
Styx
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People say they match up equally, so take your pick; however, that's not true. The fact that the Ruger has a CHF barrel makes it a better rifle that will also br more sort after should he ever want to sell it. Arfcom, Akfiles, and on other rifle based forums, members seek out CHF barrels, will pay a premium for them, and some members even buy Rugers because of the barrel, and then do away with the furniture, trigger, and other components going the $1000+ route via buying a boutique AR.
Telum Pisces
Member
Which ever one you can find in stock right now is what you have to get with AR platform rifles. Now is not the time to be able to shop around for a specific make or model in the gun world.
DustyGmt
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Melonite vs CHF is a pretty common thread on those sites as well, I cant provide absolutes regarding which is better but I do know melonited barrels typically provide an accuracy edge and are known to hold up for many,many thousands of rounds. CHF is nice, but I dont know anybody who's ever shot their gun enough to gain what advantage the CHF provides over a non CHF bbl. As far as resale, and sought after? Yes I would agree the CHF gets people really excited.... I opted against it with my BCM because I will never shoot the required amount to see its advantages over non CHF and I'd rather save $80
Skylerbone
Member
Unless the following criteria are met I vote neither.
1. You feel the need to hedge your bets because you believe they will be banned but not confiscated in the upcoming election cycle.
2. You are ok with paying market price regardless of whether it rises or falls.
3. You are willing to pay market price for ammo, again whether it increases or decreases.
4. You have at least some experience using an AR that points toward the Smith or Ruger being suited to your intended use/preference.
If you’re ok with all of the above then pick the brand based on which you like or who’s advice you trust. These past few months my experience has been that premium parts/rifles have not increased significantly in price when compared to value priced models. If you can find a higher quality rifle with availability I feel you won’t later regret spending slightly more (if you can) or purchasing parts to assemble.
If money is too tight to consider something else (or a configuration you might find more appealing) then perhaps 2 or 3 stripped lowers to assemble later should be a consideration. Plunking down $200 now while considering what you want and why still leaves you with an out in the form of a commodity that won’t likely lose much money.
1. You feel the need to hedge your bets because you believe they will be banned but not confiscated in the upcoming election cycle.
2. You are ok with paying market price regardless of whether it rises or falls.
3. You are willing to pay market price for ammo, again whether it increases or decreases.
4. You have at least some experience using an AR that points toward the Smith or Ruger being suited to your intended use/preference.
If you’re ok with all of the above then pick the brand based on which you like or who’s advice you trust. These past few months my experience has been that premium parts/rifles have not increased significantly in price when compared to value priced models. If you can find a higher quality rifle with availability I feel you won’t later regret spending slightly more (if you can) or purchasing parts to assemble.
If money is too tight to consider something else (or a configuration you might find more appealing) then perhaps 2 or 3 stripped lowers to assemble later should be a consideration. Plunking down $200 now while considering what you want and why still leaves you with an out in the form of a commodity that won’t likely lose much money.
Styx
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I believe you're thinking of nitrite vs chrome lined barrels... Cold Hammer Forged is a process that makes the barrel more durable and arguably aids in accuracy.
DustyGmt
Member
Yes, I was specifically talking about Nitride vs Chrome Lined, but as far as I know there are little to no CHF bbl's that arent chrome lined. Maybe somebody will speak up about that.
Basically, a case could be made for Nitride over CHF because nitride doesnt affect the dimensions of the bore, lending itself to better accuracy and superior corrosion resistance. The CL CHF lends itself better to heat resistance over the Nitride, my overall point was that unless you're doing full auto mag dumps or have a crazy firing schedule of say 500+ 30rd mags in a 2 hour time frame you wont collect on the added benefit of having CHF CL vs Nitride in terms of wear.
Basically, a case could be made for Nitride over CHF because nitride doesnt affect the dimensions of the bore, lending itself to better accuracy and superior corrosion resistance. The CL CHF lends itself better to heat resistance over the Nitride, my overall point was that unless you're doing full auto mag dumps or have a crazy firing schedule of say 500+ 30rd mags in a 2 hour time frame you wont collect on the added benefit of having CHF CL vs Nitride in terms of wear.
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Styx
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Yes, there are CHF barrels that aren't chrome lined. The Ruger 556 is one of them. Shooting full auto or not, if the OP shoots with any regularity, the barrel and accuracy will slowly degrade. A CHF barrel will ve stronger, degrade slower, and be more accurate longer.
The OP asked about the M&P Sport 2 vs the Ruger 556. The fact still remains that the Ruger is better where it matters most. It's not an even tie, and if the prices are within the same ballpark coupled with Ruger's CS reputation vs S&W's, I would stir the OP towards the Ruger. I'm not an expert on the subject, but I've been apart of several forum discussion with people who are, and the OP's question has came up before.
Skylerbone
Member
Not looking to pick a fight but I’d need to see a source for that. Now when speaking directly to the Ruger, it isn’t chrome lined therefore it should wear at the same rate as any other non-treated barrel. Compared with a nitride treated barrel in theory the Smith ought to wear better thereby maintaining its accuracy longer. The CHF process does not guarantee accuracy; it gives a more consistent finish (generally smoother) when compared to typical OEM barrels.
Now if we’re on the same page, the Ruger barrel is finished in black oxide (not manganese phosphate) and the Smith nitrided. One offers very good corrosion protection, the other almost none unless oiled.
I can only promise that anyone weighing the decision on which of these 2 to purchase based on accuracy will be sorely disappointed unless ~2 MOA is “accurate”. While either may respond well to custom loaded ammo, these aren’t IMO the type of rifles bought for counting Xs and so the venture will still prove fruitless for anyone expecting a 1/2 MOA shooter.
Skylerbone
Member
Not pushing any brands, but just a 2-minute check and I’d choose this over the Ruger or S&W, then swap the stock and grip. https://www.primaryarms.com/faxon-firearms-ascent-556-modern-sporting-rifle-16.
DustyGmt
Member
I would have loved to have snagged one of those 1st gen sports, TC 5R Melonite Bbl. Even still, I don't get real excited about CHF CL because I dont have any full auto weapons, where the CHF CL seems to slightly edge out nitrided Bbl's. I cant speak with absolutes about either, do your own research, but from what I was able to gather someone like me, who doesnt shoot FA, doesnt need CHF CL. I would take the Sport over the Ruger, customer service isnt a relevant factor for me, in this case.
It comes down to only a couple things, I like the nitride over the CHF, I like the roll mark of the Smith, and I personally own the smith, I know it's a good weapon. The ruger is too and I would say anybody claiming one is better than the other would be stating their subjective opinion, as am I.
It comes down to only a couple things, I like the nitride over the CHF, I like the roll mark of the Smith, and I personally own the smith, I know it's a good weapon. The ruger is too and I would say anybody claiming one is better than the other would be stating their subjective opinion, as am I.
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