So apparently I suck at reloading already. Problems decapping military crimped brass

[1KPerDay]

Thanks for the info. Both of the ones I messed up were TW53. A couple of the WCC ones I have have the flash holes bored well off center... would that be a problem? They worked at least once...

For those that recommended the heavy-duty RCBS universal decapper, I tried it out last night on a few ring-crimped brass and it worked a treat. Almost laughably easy. I had to run it closer to the ram than the directions say to get the primers all the way out, but it worked great after that.

BTW I soaked the ones above with oil for a day and then carefully decapped them, worked fine.

I almost want to just throw all my GI M2 brass in the scrap bucket but I've worked so long getting it clean and trimmed and ready that it makes me cringe to think of just tossing it. Penny wise and pound foolish, I guess.

 

[utahvaughn]

G.I. crimpted brass

Grind a flat tip on a ice pick to punch primers out. Try putting the stuck case and die in the freezer---different metals,different expansion rates.Good luck,utahvaughn

 

[jcwit]

Try putting the stuck case and die in the freezer---different metals,different expansion rates.Good luck,utahvaughn

Problem is the case is brass as is the primer cup. Both have the same expansion rate.

 

[helotaxi]

I've had problems with PMC 5.56 brass pushing the stem up in a Lee .223 die. My solution was to have a ball peen hammer handy and smack the stem back down into the collet which also knocked the primer loose. It was only an issue with PMC mil brass that was both crimped and sealed. Brass that was only crimped was no problem.

Got sick of playing whack-a-mole and got out the big wrenches and really torqued the crap out of the collet. No more problems.

I also use One-Shot and have not had any problems with it once I learned to shake it until you feel stupid, and then shake it for another minute or so. I've only had two stuck cases and the most recent one was using something other than One-Shot (I was out). Both were also in a Lyman .223 die. That particular die seems to require more effort to size brass regardless of lube so it has been benched in favor of the Lee die.

 

[WNTFW]

I have had several Lee dies that the decapping pin would slip up too easily. On one I cut extra slits in the collet. That worked. On the rest I drilled and tapped the hex nut collet for a set screw. That also works and is easier to do.

Not a big fan of One-shot. I used the hand pump spray. I think the aerosol may give different results. I went to Mink oil & never looked back.

 

[Whiskey11]

Problem is the case is brass as is the primer cup. Both have the same expansion rate.

He is talking about removing the stuck case from the die, not removing the primer from the case

Someone earlier mentioned not flying in airplanes because they are Aluminum. First, you are crazy if you think there is only one grade of aluminum, two, the grades of aluminum used in airplanes are rarely CAST that way. The cast presses we have probably have a fairly high magnesium or zinc addition to aid in casting (for those playing at home: Pot metal ) and reduce cost, third, they wont be treated the same, the grades of aircraft aluminum are tempered differently using precipitates, our cast aluminum frame press are probably not anywhere close to the same levels.

One Shot is a good case lube for .308. Application and following directions tends to help. I personally take my .308 cases and put them in a plastic bag (sometimes two) and spray quite liberally into the plastic bag. Roll the cases around in the bag and shake, kind of like shake-n-bake and continue to do so. Then open the bag and let the cases SIT for 15 minutes (as per the directions on the bottle) then start sizing. I've FL Sized the same 150 cases about 3 times (since I neck size ) using Hornady One-Shot and only had two stuck cases. Both where when I didn't wait long enough, and apparently the one shot acts like a glue when it dries between two bits of metal.

 

[ranger335v]

It's common for noobs to lubricate the heck outta the upper case body and even inside the necks but fail to do so on the lower part of the cases and that's where they get stuck. Everyone eventually needs a stuck case puller anyway.

Noobs seem to think One-Shot spray would be really good stuff. It actually works really well on handgun cases that will be sized in a carbide die but any other case lube is better for bottle neck cases. Seems most of the problems rise from failure to follow the lube's instructions properly.

Lee's Universal Decapper is both inexpensive and the strongest on the market, it's great for GI cases. Your TW (Twin Cities Arsenal) cases are very good, decap them and USE A PRIMER POCKET REAMER such as Lyman sells to remove the crimp before trying to reprime them.

Some folks don't unnerstand why Lee's excellant decap/expander rod is made the way it is. The point of the collet holder is to both center the rod better AND to allow it to slide up if there's an obstruction. Works good too, if the user has enough mechanical understanding to use it correctly.

 

[ranger335v]

" the grades of aircraft aluminum are tempered differently using precipitates, our cast aluminum frame press are probably not anywhere close to the same levels.

Interesting "probably" tossed in while indicating you have no facts. Anyway, it's irrelivant; our "pot metal" presses (NOT!) are so over designed it doesn't matter. Fact is, alum alloy presses are easily proven to be more rigid, within the limits of their strength, than iron presses. Rigidity IS a help when making precision reloads!

 

[jcwit]

He is talking about removing the stuck case from the die, not removing the primer from the case

You're right, I didn;t read that post correctly. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[rscalzo]

Could that possibly be Berdan primed brass

Might be. Primer hole could be off center. I've had some primers that refused to budge. So that case went into the recycle pile. I too do not like One Shot.

I learned a trick years ago on another forum. I use exclusivly Dillion's lube (or the same under other names such as Cabelas). I use a one gallow ziplock bag, tose the cases in with several hots of lube. Seal it and toss the bag around for a minute ot two, then let the lube set up. But all cases are thumbed for an hour or two to clean first.

I do disagree about the need for a single stage press. I use a Dillion to deprimp thousands and thousands of military rifle cases without issue.

Lee will remove a stuck case for a small fee. RCBS does them for free. (Ask me how I know).

Someone earlier mentioned not flying in airplanes because they are Aluminum

Scuba tanks are made of that material. They hold 3000 psi plus year in and year out.

 

[agd1953]

I have had a this happen mid way through a batch. I have found that the decapping pin gets loose. When this happens I just wiggle the pin and if it moves I remove and tighten the thing and then all is well until it gets loose again.

 

[USSR]

Noobs seem to think One-Shot spray would be really good stuff. It actually works really well on handgun cases that will be sized in a carbide die but any other case lube is better for bottle neck cases.

+1. The absolute ONLY thing I will use One Shot on is handgun brass with a carbide sizing die.

Don

 

[tlen]

Never had a problem decaping military brass with RCBS dies. Lee collet dies just don't hold tight enough.