So, who here went looking for specific BP revolver and ended up with something different?

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Just got the Ruger Old Army in. Put the custom extended grips on, and happy that it still fits in the Ruger box IMG_0580.JPG
 
You have to remove the cylinder to load it. I told them that they need to adapt their cylinder to the revolver because I don't want that Colt touched. She said OK and said they won't touch the revolver.

I'll get a picture up as soon as the snow melts enough I can open the shed.
:what: Your guns are in a shed that gets snowed in.......................................
 
I went looking for a Uberti 1862 Pocket Police a long time ago and ended up with three more Uberti Walkers :eek: because of a Cabela's sale....I still need to get that 1862 as it seems that everytime I look for a 1862 isn't on sale but something else is. :cuss:

Just remember. This is what an 1862 looks like!
 
But that one is too purty to shoot. I'd be afraid to leave a fingerprint on it.
I shoot it all the time. When I bought it it was "Unfired" but full of green stuff from being fired but not cleaned. The hand couldn't even work to turn the cylinder. The seller made it right and I kept it, cleaned it and am shooting it. I'm glad i kept it.
 
Well, it just happened. Went to Cabelas website to look at their 1863 pocket revolvers. I was looking around and saw they had the 1851 brass frame sheriffs .44 on sale for $149.99. I couldn't resist it, had to get one.
 
Well, it just happened. Went to Cabela's website to look at their 1863 pocket revolvers. I was looking around and saw they had the 1851 brass frame sheriffs .44 on sale for $149.99. I couldn't resist it, had to get one.

Good for you! I know you are new to this BP C&B realm, and I think you just want to shoot the guns. That's not a bad price at all for a new .44 brasser, really. Just remember to start with 20-22 grains of BP per chamber (I think Pietta recommends far less for their CYA stuff in the paperwork you receive with it). You will still get a nice "boom" and smoke, and the brasser will last a long time at those loads. With the Pietta's proper arbor length concerning the barrel lug arbor depth, the wedge should fit the same way, same depth every time, and the barrel/cylinder gap should remain the same tight tolerance. Should it change you need to check your loads and to see if the cylinder is backing into the recoil shield. While it is new, take some pics of the rear of the cylinder and the front of the recoil shield for comparison down the road for your personal info.

I am pleased that you bought it new rather than some of the beat up, overloaded, overshot guns on GB or other sites for more money. You will have a much better time of it.

If you have cash burning a hole in your pocket, keep checking Cabela's website every other day. Since BPS (Bass Pro Shops) holds a major controlling/marketing interest in Cabela's operation these days, my personal opinion is that BPS wants to get out of BP entirely, and that eventually means Cabela's. I have been to two stores in WA and BPS counter folks, when asked about BP guns, give you the deer-in-the-headlights look: no clue.

And I am not a fan of those fantasy guns, but...

Maint, enjoy and learn. No one learns it in a short while.

Have a good night, sir!

Jim
 
Thanks Jim. And thank you for the advice. As soon as it comes in I will take those pictures of the cylinder. I'm also going to do the same with my 1860 brass frame.
Should I follow the same 20-22 grain loads for the 1860? I've been shooting 25gr in it.
Also, I shoot Pyrodex P in mine. According to the recommend load,CYA paper work, that came with my other revolvers,black powder and Pyrodex P have different recommend loads. Is the 20-22 grain load BP or Pyrodex? Or does it matter?
 
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Thanks Jim. And thank you for the advice. As soon as it comes in I will take those pictures of the cylinder. I'm also going to do the same with my 1860 brass frame.
Should I follow the same 20-22 grain loads for the 1860? I've been shooting 25gr in it.
Also, I shoot Pyrodex P in mine. According to the recommend load, CYA paper work, that came with my other revolvers, black powder and Pyrodex P have different recommend loads. Is the 20-22 grain load BP or Pyrodex? Or does it matter?

I have no experience with Pyrodex P. Back in the day I used Pyrodex RS in my CVA .50 Hawken and it worked satisfactorily on moose in Alaska, but my hunting buddy (we hunted as a 2-man team) had a .54 Hawken and he was always the first shot and I was the backup. Between the two of us we never lost an animal.

Those loads I stated are BP, and be aware there are a few brands (Old Eynesford, Goex, et al) and some enterprising individuals make their own. There are basically four sizes: Fg (cannon stuff), FFg (muskets, rifles, shotguns), FFFg (pistols), and FFFFg (priming pan powder for flintlock guns). Some others here may have a difference with my delineation, but that is what I go by.

BP and Pyrodex are not the same, so go cautiously, especially in a brass framed pistol, no matter if it is an 1851 Navy fantasy or an 1860 Army fantasy. Not so much in a steel framed gun.

Enjoy!

Jim
 
Thanks Jim. And thank you for the advice. As soon as it comes in I will take those pictures of the cylinder. I'm also going to do the same with my 1860 brass frame.
Should I follow the same 20-22 grain loads for the 1860? I've been shooting 25gr in it.
Also, I shoot Pyrodex P in mine. According to the recommend load,CYA paper work, that came with my other revolvers,black powder and Pyrodex P have different recommend loads. Is the 20-22 grain load BP or Pyrodex? Or does it matter?
You should be OK with 20-22 grains of Pyrodex P
 
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