SP101 trigger assembly

[IrvJr]

Can anyone provide me with detailed instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble the trigger assembly for a Ruger SP101?

How hard is it to disassemble and reassemble the trigger assembly? The other day I partially disassembled it by removing the transfer bar, the pawl, and the pawl plunger & spring accidentally (the plunger pin shot out and I had to look all over the floor to find it!).

Are there any other small parts, springs, etc. that will need special attention as I disassemble or reassemble the trigger assembly?

I bought a brand new 3-1/16" Ruger SP101 recently and it's a great gun. My only complaint was the sharp trigger edges. I field stripped the gun per the instruction manual and used fine emory paper to soften the edges of the trigger.

However, I would like to completely disassemble the trigger assembly to isolate the trigger so I can more evenly smooth and polish the edges. I am NOT interested in doing any trigger action work - I am pretty happy with the current pull and action of the gun.

Thanks!

 

[dfariswheel]

I don't know of any actual instructions.

Here's a link to an good exploded view.
http://www.again.net/~steve/ipb-ruger-sp101.html

As you can see, the SP-101 trigger assembly isn't complicated, and comes apart and back together fairly easily.

If you had the transfer bar and the pawl out, you pretty well had it.

All that's necessary is to push out the pin in the back of the trigger guard, which releases the trigger spring and plunger assembly.

Next, (I think) is the pin that retains the cylinder locking bolt and it's spring and plunger.

Then, the pin that retains the trigger, trigger plunger and the pawl spring and plunger assembly.

I recommend leaving the trigger link and pin in place inside the trigger.

 

[IrvJr]

Thanks

Thanks DFariswheel,

I printed out a copy of the exploded diagram from the manual and was able to figure out how to disassemble it. You're right, it's not too complicated to disassemble and reassemble. The parts do reassemble fairly easily.

I was worried that it would be really hard to get them back together again, but it wasn't too difficult.

Ileft the trigger link pinned to the trigger (as you suggested). I also didn't remove the cylinder latch and its plunger this time, but the next time I do a detailed cleaning of the gun I will.

Thanks again for the help.

IrvJr

 

[Dr. J Frame]

This might help.

I like the way the entire lockwork folds out like a pocketknife. There's A LOT of ROUGH contact surfaces in there. I'm working on one right now.

They are a great piece. This is my second 3" SP101. Although they are fairly inexpensive they are my favorite revolver design. And I've owned a bunch.

 

[IrvJr]

Thanks...

Dr. J Frame,

Thanks! AWESOME Thread that you pointed me to.

I've only had my SP101 for a week or two and it's also become my favorite design, although I still really like my S&W J frame (it's a 337 - light as a feather, great trigger, and accurate too).

Yeah, the pieces in my gun looked fairly rough when I disassembled the lockwork, but in spite of the rough looking pieces, my SP101's action is really smooth, now that I dry-fired it a lot. The pull is still fairly long and heavy, but it's smooth and clean, and I actually prefer the heavy and long pull on a defensive gun. I didn't do any action work other than dry fire the gun a lot and clean and lube the pieces.

One problem, however, that I've noticed with my SP101, is that one of the chambers in the cylinder seems to be a little snug. I've tried cleaning this chamber out really well, but the rounds don't seat in the chamber properly unless I give them a little bit of a push.

I'm planning to post a range report with pictures once I get all of the bugs worked out.

Thanks again for the great link. Enjoy your gun.