Speakin of Miltec...how much oil do you put on your gun?

[Graystar]

Most guns I see have, what *I* consider to be, way too much oil on them. So I was wondering what people follow as guidelines when oiling their guns.

Here's how I do it. My guns are almost completely dry. There are only two places that get oil...high pressure points and high speed points. So, hammer and sear pivot pins, slide rails, the bolt on my Ruger Mark II...things like that.

On a detail, I'll oil the trigger pivot points, but I'll actually wipe most of the oil away before assembly, just so's there a trace of it and that's all.

Otherwise, everything else is dry. I do this because guns generate lots of dirt, and since I really don't think I need the oil in the places I've left dry, I'd rather not have oil picking up dirt.

I have blued guns and haven't had a rust problem. Although now that I live in NYC I don't know if the seawater will be a factor.

Guess I should get some stainless steel guns just to be safe

 

[Pheonix]

I wipe the oil off and store the guns. They will usually be used within 1-3 weeks. With Militek I will put a thick coat of oil on moving parts and inside and outside the barrel before using. If you read the info for the oil you will see why. Cleaning sure is easy!

 

[cool45auto]

I put a drop on the rails and spread it out with my finger and another drop on the moving parts of the locking block.

 

[Andrew Wyatt]

if it's shiney, it gets oiled.

 

[Nick96]

Just so it doesn't puddle or drip. Friction points get well lubed and wiped so there is a thin but visable film. Rest of it gets a "hand rubbed" coating. If being stored for long periods, I want a film of oil on everything metal. I use a very light, high quality oil though - no grease - no penetrating lubes.

 

[MPFreeman]

my non CCW's get bunches of oil. As they tend not to get as much usage.

 

[Yo]

I put thick lube on the contact points. I like to use TW25b on the barrel and lugs because it goes on pretty dry.

For stainless guns I've found a film of Militec on the inside of the slide really cuts galling. SS is softer than carbon steel and it is easy for it to get galled.

On sear surfaces, something really slippery like MPro7 lube or Prolix pure lube works really well.

On glocks, I just lube the frame rails and TW25b on the barrel and lugs.

 

[10-Ring]

A couple drops of Militec on a q-tip & then I wipe down contact points.

 

[Tag]

Ten Ring's got it, that's what I do as well.

 

[Graystar]

Yeah, I think so to. Except the Q-Tip part...too much fuzz...

 

[braindead0]

Don't really oil anything unless it's going into storage. I do use Ed's Red for cleaning and the ATF provides a bit of lubricant.

As a side note, my dads 3 1911's have never been lubricated... at least one (his 100% Colt A1) has probably had 100,000+ rounds through it.... never a hickup..

 

[Hardtarget]

When I go to the range, I clean then oil/grease pretty liberally...after all, I'm going to shoot. When I get home, I clean and oil lightly just to protect from rust. I do a light oiling on my carry gun and wipe it down regularly. I figure thats plenty of lube for a defense situation. I've never been in one, but I hear they are usually short and scary events. What little lube is there will likely last long enough.
Mark.

 

[LiquidTension]

A drop on each slide rail, a drop in the hammer pivot, a drop on the barrel (finger coated), finger coat everything else that is shiny. Wipe down external with silicon cloth.

 

[QuarterBoreGunner]

From the Glock armorers class: 8 drops only. One each on the frame rails. One on the top of the barrel near muzzle. One inside slide where chamber rubs it. One on top of trigger w/trigger bar assembly where striker extension rubs it. One more on frame locking insert.

(checking on fingers...1, 2, 3, 4, 5...yeah 8 drops)

From Sig armorers class: just enough to see or feel; if it flows under its own weight when you pick it up... it's too much.


Kinda like that Carl's Jr. commercial with the sloppy hamburger.

 

[kalibear45]

I'm all for that FP-10 lube myself and I just spray it on the slide rails, small moving parts, and all that smelly stuff just like deodorant! If it starts dripping away when I'm shooting, I just wipe it off. Figured its best to have more lube on your gun than less...

 

[moxie]

Clean and Lube Procedures

Try this:

I've used this procedure on all civilian guns for over 30 years, except that I don't think I had Breakfree and Rem-Oil for the whole time:
1. Clean entire gun with Hoppe's #9, one of the smells of freedom, the other being burnt JP-4, or Breakfree aerosol (carburetor cleaner works almost as good), depending on how dirty the gun is. Use a bronze bristle brush in the barrels and chambers to break up the crud, then cotton patches on a slotted tip until clean. Use a jag for a couple of swipes to get that last bit of crud out of the barrel. Use an old bristle brush to clean the bolt/breech face on rifles and autos and the cylinder face on revolvers. Scrub around the forcing cone with the bristle brush if shooting lead bullets out of a revolver.
2. Saturate with WD-40 (no, I've never had a problem) or Rem-Oil, whichever comes to hand first.
3. Wipe off thoroughly with cotton rag and Q-tips and slotted tip/jag with cotton patches. Get chambers bone dry (oil can kill primers).
4. Drip tiny drops of Hoppe's gun oil or similar on points of wear.
5. For autos, put a little dab of a good grease like Rig (or the old black Outers/Garcia stuff) on the slide rails and any bright spots. Ditto on friction and wear points in a rifle. Speaking of rifles, if a gas powered auto, clean the gas ports and tubes with a pipe cleaner. On M-16s and similar, make sure the key ways on the bolt rings are out of line.
6. Apply very thin coat of Hoppe's gun oil in barrel using a wool or cotton mop.
7. Thoroughly wipe off any excess.
8. Before a range session, run a clean patch through the barrel.
For magazines and moon clips, I use only Hoppe's #9 and dry thoroughly. Absolutely no oil, it can kill primers.
In the military we used milspec bore cleaner and LSA. Worked great. If you're on a budget get some of these at a surplus outlet and you'll be OK. Lots of guys have used thin motor oil or transmission fluid for gun oil with good results too.

 

[gudel]

does this militec or fp10 removes copper residue?

 

[moxie]

Hoppe's Bench Rest removes copper residue. If you are shooting a lot of jacketed bullets, you might try this every now and then instead of, or in addition to (my preference), No. 9.

 

[gudel]

actually i ordered Hoppe's Bench rest copper remover. it should be here.
I use breakfree, and Kleenbore F3 as well as outdoor's cleaner in blue label bottle. after cleaning with breakfree and kleenbore the outdoor's still remove more residue.

but i lubricate with breakfree per instruction in the HK manual. thin for anti rust and medium for moving parts, no thick/heavy lubrication. my ruger also suggest to use thin layers, not dripping or puddle of oil visible.

 

[Blackcloud6]

For storage I spray Remoil on a rag and wip the gun. I also run a patch lightly sprayed with remoil down the bore.

For lubing for service it depends on the gun. I do what the manual that came with the gun tells me to do.

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Been using Hoppe's Bench Rest copper solvent for years in my SAR-48. Amazing, after using regular #9 on it's chrome-lined barrel, it appeared clean. A patch soaked with BR comes out green. Obviously NOT clean. Started using it with regularity after this.