How many of you rinse your guns with hot water during cleaning?

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0to60

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This is never something I would have tried until I saw this video on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEBrkF0sMgI

At the end, he suggests you put all the parts in a bucket with solvent, let it sit for a while, rinse with hot water, dry and reassemble.

I've always cleaned guns with solvent and then used an air compressor to blow the solvent off the gun and out of the internal parts that you can't get to. Then I'd oil. But recently, I've started rinsing the solvent away with hot water first, then blowing with the air compressor, and then oiling.

Does anyone else use water? If not water or air, how do you clean the solvent out of the gun before oiling and reassembling? Or, describe your process if you have something even more effective.
 
When I was in the army in 1962 I used hot shower water [with soap, toothbrush and a few patches] to clean my M-1 Garand. If I had been caught the 1st sergeant would probably put me on KP forever. I could do in a couple of minutes what took guys using patches an hour and I would do a better job. The trick was to use VERY hot water so it would dry properly, then apply some oil. The inspector could run a patch down my barrel and it would come out clean. I don't do this on my own guns for fear not all the water will evaporate.
 
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I've heard (and taken it with a grain of salt) that S&W suggests putting their stainless revolvers in a dishwasher on the pots & pans setting with the side plate off in order to clean during their armorer's course. The heat in there would certainly be enough to evaporate quickly if you pulled it out right after the cycle.

Still, water makes me uneasy.
 
I don't, because I no longer shoot corrosive ammo except in the Mosin Nagant, and that gets boresnaked. That's the only thing I've heard of using hot water for. I don't like the idea of water messing up the wood or getting between it and the action and rusting it.

Regarding corrosive ammo:

It didn't take me long to figure out that shooting corrosive ammo out of a semi-auto rifle was NOT worth it, as the gas system gets filthy and requires you to thoroughly clean it to avoid rusting. You use so much solvent and patches that you wind up spending more money on cleaning supplies than the price difference between that and Wolf or Silver Bear. And you spend more time cleaning than you do shooting. It's a false savings in anything but a bolt-action rifle.
 
In the 80's, I often used hot water to clean my M16. Of course they had Industrial Strength hot water in the barracks; you could make instant coffee with it right from the tap.
 
I've heard (and taken it with a grain of salt) that S&W suggests putting their stainless revolvers in a dishwasher on the pots & pans setting with the side plate off in order to clean during their armorer's course.

It must have been a different S&W Armorer's Course tahn I went to as I never heard this there. I have heard of people doing this but have never known anyone to do this. You would also have to contend with the lead contamination in your dishwasher if you did this on a regular basis.

Of course they had Industrial Strength hot water in the barracks;

Yes usually at 211 degrees fahrenheit!

I have seen rifles cleaned in very hot water in the Army. The water usually evaporates bedore it gets a chance to start any corrosion. I can't see how this does any better than a solvent but I have seen it done.
 
You use so much solvent and patches that you wind up spending more money on cleaning supplies than the price difference between that and Wolf or Silver Bear.
Click to expand...

I never noticed it took much more in cleaning, just a change ion solvent. When I am cleaning after corrosive ammo I simply use a black powder solvent. Cleans quickly and easily.
 
My girlfriend cleans her $4000 race gun with soap and water. I cringed every time she did it.
But I found out that all the parts are coated with Armoloy; she doesn't even use oil.
She shoots JSWC so no lead in the bbl. uses a dishwasher brush to clean it.
After finding that out I had my race gun coated with Armoly but I still clean it the old way.
She's never had any shooting problems from washing her gun. If I could only get her to wash my socks....

Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.
John Wayne
 
Basic and Advanced. Showers with a gun. Got the guns pristine in no time flat.
Still use hot water at times.

My wife would kill me if she found my S&W in the dishwasher so I don't have the nerve to try it.

AFS
 
0to60 said:
This is never something I would have tried until I saw this video on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEBrkF0sMgI

At the end, he suggests you put all the parts in a bucket with solvent, let it sit for a while, rinse with hot water, dry and reassemble.

I've always cleaned guns with solvent and then used an air compressor to blow the solvent off the gun and out of the internal parts that you can't get to. Then I'd oil. But recently, I've started rinsing the solvent away with hot water first, then blowing with the air compressor, and then oiling.

Does anyone else use water? If not water or air, how do you clean the solvent out of the gun before oiling and reassembling? Or, describe your process if you have something even more effective.
Click to expand...
Only after using copper solvent containing ammonia (Sweets 7.62, Barnes,....). I rinse bore with hot water wipe it dry and apply oil or special grease (if gun is going to be stored for extended period of time).
 
I do, once in a while. Very hot water & Dawn dish detergent. Dollar store tooth brushes work well too.

Then dry and oil well. I dont do this all the time, only for corrosive ammo or after a lot of rounds.
 
I always wash parts on a total teardown and clean in hot/soapy water and rinse with clean hot water. A quick blow out with compressed air and spray with WD-40 while the parts are still hot. A few drops of Rem-Oil before re-assembly and their done.
 
So, those of you who don't rinse with hot water OR blow solvent out with compressed air, how do you get all the solvent out of the gun?

With a 1911 its not too big a deal, because it can easily be field stripped all the way down. But most modern autos only break down into a frame, slide, barrel and spring/rod. How do you get all the solvent out of the slide, firing pin/striker channel, down in the grip, etc...?
 
I used hot soapy water (the traditional cleaning method) on a cap-and-ball revolver. That was the first, last and only time. I've heard of people cleaning Glocks in their dishwasher. :D This isn't as farfetched as it sounds.
 
Depends on the gun.

Glocks, EBRs and blackpowder guns get cleaned with hot, soapy water. Make sure they get rinsed in hot water to bring the metal temperature up so it dries faster. I use canned air to blow out places I can't reach with a rag and re-oil.
 
It is a well known fact in the Army that you cannot clean a rifle properly and have it pass inspection. You can spend 8 hours on it running patches down the barrel, Q-tips, pipe cleaners, etc. Put a light coat of oil on it, put it in the rack, wait a couple of hours, and VIOLA! it now turns a patch black when you check it. What was the solution you ask? Well if the Army doesn't want their rifles oiled that is what they get. We cleaned them in the shower with SUPER hot water and some sort of cleaner that was in there. When you took them out of the water they were so hot that the water evaporated after about 20 seconds and a couple of shakes. No oil applied afterward. Quickly turn them in to the armory and let them wonder why they rusted. Its sad, I know, but what can you do when you are dealing with ignorant people. Sadly, I am now an officer and do not feel the need to "fight the establishment" to fix the problem. Just ready to get out.
 
I never did the water thing when I was in the army [1980's] but new a couple of guys that did. I allways thought water+metal=rust.
 
I don't.

Isn't the old saying, "Water and wood, no good. Water and steel, bad deal."?

I also don't use degreasers. I use CLP type products.

The only reason can see to take all the lube off a gun is to get something to stick to the gun, like a new finish or sight paint, etc.
 
I allways thought water+metal=rust.
Click to expand...
Many people do. For those people and to anyone interested,I'm reposting the process used for hot bath bluing/rebluing. After disassembly(or before assembly),all parts to be blued are degreased and stripped of old bluing. For high polish,all pits are removed by sanding/polishing,etc. Parts for a Matte finish are glassbeaded. Now comes the good part,all parts to be blued are immersed in HOT soapy water,from there to HOT clear water,from there to the bluing salt solution(salts dissolved in 4 gallons of WATER),from there to stop bath(solution in 4 gallons of WATER),from there to BOILING HOT clear water,from there,while the metal is still hot into an oil bath (I use WD-40 but ANY oil will do. Hot water and soap is the best method for removing dirt,grit,grease,powder residue,etc from firearms regardless of the material they are made from. HINT;always remove the firearm from the stock before cleaning. When I do a major teardown and clean,all parts are immersed in very hot water,even the barrel and action.
 
I regularly clean my BP revolvers in my kitchen sink.
I use water and soap in BP and barrels I fire corrosive ammo in.
Takes minutes and I have done it 50+ years.
 
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