You can spend a lot of money on spotting scopes, and spotting scope stands, but that is a real deal.
Having purchased too many spotting scopes, I developed a few opinions about them
This is an early rig of mine, with the later Freeland Tripod. This is a fixed power, 27X, but long eye relief scope.
In the middle 1980's these 77 mm Spotting scopes appeared on the market and they were just too big for the Freeland "Crow's Foot" tripod. There were a number of times that my Kowa, and other's Kowa's ate dirt when the scope stand was bumped, or just fell over, as we shot 200 Slow Fire Standing. The older scope stands were designed around the older 65 mm spotting scopes and the next generation spotting scopes were just too heavy and unbalanced for the older spotting scope stands. I know of one Bud who's Kowa cracked its objective lens when his stand tipped over. Freeland offered a spike which screwed in the shaft, which worked great in soft dirt, but did not work very well when you needed a jack hammer to make a hole, or, on a concrete firing point. I have seen what must be twenty pound cast lead weights attached to the shaft of the older Freeland stands. One clever shooter told me how he cast his weight, screw in the middle, using a cast iron firing pan. This was to prevent his scope from tipping over when fully extended on his stand, but it sure made his stand and scope a monster to carry!
When the 80mm scopes came out, I bought a Pentax with variable magnification. This is my go to scope and stand, for Smallbore Prone and Prone Centerfire.
This was a learning experience. While optically good, this Celestron 100mm scope is so ill balanced the manufacturer included a kludge extension bar that shifted the center of gravity. The bar never worked right, got loose, and only with the purchase of a Ray Vin scope head was I able to use this scope. It is still so badly balanced that fine adjustments are difficult to make. Also, don't buy a scope without rotating center attachment ring. This scope has a fixed attachment point and though the Ray Vin scope head makes it work, this is not as good as a rotating attachment ring.
This is a 65mm Celstron, optically good, but it does not have the rotating center attachment ring. The Freeland interface makes it work, but there are too many screws and they loosen up, and the scope droops, and that always happens at an inconvenient time. This is on the old Freeland Scope stand, which is very tippy with any scope with an objective greater than 65 mm, and a bit tippy with this rig.
This Pentax is a great little scope, fits on my old Freeland Tripod, use a stand long enough and the paint gets knocked off. I have no doubt this is optically better than a $139 dollar, or even a $200 spotting scope, but it takes a teenager to see the difference. This has the rotating center attachment ring and is a zoom scope.
If you are serious about shooting, get the biggest objective lens you can afford. The more you can see at distance, the more information you will pick up on mirage and plant movements. There are range conditions which the only thing you can use for velocity and direction estimates are the plants around your target. I remember talking to Tobie Tomlinson, a service rifle National Champion, about one horribly windy 600 yard relay at Camp Perry. Tobie had a plant in front of his target, when it went horizontal, he held his fire! I think the high score for the match was in the upper 180's, which was pretty low considering the number of National Champs on the firing line. When I grumbled about the conditions, the next day, an old retired USMC shooter, a couple of firing points away, informed me that when he won the 1000 yard match, with his service M14, he had full left windage on his rifle, and he was aiming at the third target to the left!.
While I like the zoom feature on my spotting scope, seldom is it useful when above "40X". Yes the image is larger, but mirage washes out the bullet hole. When mirage is bad, and often it is, I dial the magnification down. Sometimes even that won't work. I don't know the "perfect" fixed magnification, sometimes a 20X scope is what you need, sometimes a 30X will work. Lower magnification works in bad light and mirage when higher magnification won't.