Squib. Aluminum rod or gunsmith?

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I'm sure everyone will says no, no, no, but I use the biggest Phillips head screw driver I have.
When you stop screaming, please read my reasoning. The shaft is .315, just a little smaller than a
9mm or 38 barrel so it can't tip much side to side. The pointed tip is centered so it can't come in contact with the barrel but it does contact the center of the bullet that is stuck which is what you want and can't slide sideways as I said before. All the force is directed to the center of the bullet, regardless of shape. Next, the shaft is stiff so there can be no bending or flexing. Lastly, the plastic handle is a good target to hit with your hammer and provides a little bit of give. Best part is you probably already have one. But remember, this is for 9mm and 38/357 but the concept works if it is properly sized for any caliber. That said, I don't know what I would use for a 45 but so far that hasn't come up.
 
Wood works fine, until it doesn't, and then the problem is worse than before.

A friend had some reloads from her father, who told me he was trying to make "the most economical load possible", in .38 Special...but he used JHPs :confused:

Anyway, he "economized" on the powder charge, and she ended up with squibs galore. Dad pounded them out using an M60 cleaning rod section and
T-handle, against a 6x6 post at the range (I didn't realize what he had in mind when he walked up and asked if I had a cleaning rod!). This was on a
pristine S&W Model 19, btw, that she inherited from her aunt. Dad knocked at least one slug out of the bore, handed me the rod back, and returned to
the other end of the range, where they resumed firing and got...another squib. She decided to call it a day, and later asked if I'd "unsquib" the revolver
for her.

The JHP was an inch or less from muzzle of barrel--6" if I recall. If it had been half-way or less to the cylinder end, I'd have gone the rod routine.

I decided against trying it drive it all the way back to the cylinder end. Took a .38 round (not one of her Dad's! :rofl:), pulled the slug, and dumped out
about 80% of the powder. I don't recall what I covered the powder with--I may have just held everything vertical, and put it in the cylinder. Popped it
off, and the slug nosed about a third of the way out the muzzle. Repeated it with another cartridge, and the slug popped out. Barrel and bore appeared
unaffected by the entire sordid experience.
 
Man am I learning a lot from this thread! I've never had squibs before I stopped reloading 7 years ago but I've had two of them in one month now and now I'm paying extra attention to my powder loads. I discovered my powder measure likes to turn itself off as I load. I have to check it every hundred rds or so now to turn it back on to full on. I also have it on my list a steel or if I can get it a brass rod next time we're down at Home Depot (35 miles away). I think it's a brass cleaning rod in the new mini cleaning kit we got for the range bag but I won't want to risk screwing it up.

Captain Quack.
 
I just had a squib in my Ruger P95. Do I need to take it to a smith or can I just use a aluminum cleaning rod and a hammer and vice?

Captain Quack.
No to Al cleaning rod. You can mess up the threads on the rod. Get a solid brass bar and use that. If you have a brass muzzle guard, then you can use a steel rod.

<----- Trinidad State trained gunsmith (who hasn't touched a fyrearm in a couple of years b/c gonnes are icky).
 
I use a cleaning rod with a jag with a cleaning patch on it. Put lube down the barrel around the stuck bullet and tap it out with a rubber mallet.
 
I did try a dead fall hammer and it didn't seem to do anything. Two taps with a roofing hammer and my Wife got to see a bullet with rifling marks. I think the kroil did have a positive effect on getting it out.

Captain Quack.
 
Consider yourself lucky if you extracted the bullet with wood. One real problem with wood is that it will splinter inside the bore, if it breaks inside the barrel, you won't be getting it out. Wood is a bad, bad, choice for driving an obstruction out any tube, never mind a barrel.

I purchased this pistol from a shooting buddy who used in PPC Competition, He said he fired about 60,000 rounds of 38 Specials loaded with 148 LWC's and 2.7 grains of Bullseye. He used Federal primers. The primer choice and powder choice are important.

wt7M26B.jpg


One weekend, more than a decade ago, I took to the range the well worn 586 and the other a 95% Colt Trooper Mk III in 357 Mag.

The weather was cold there were infact snow flakes in the air, it was overcast and the wind was blowing. The ammunition had been overnight in the bed of the truck.

I had misfires, no hangfires, and I had squibs with a load I tested in 103 F weather. I had rounds that felt anywhere between full power and squib. My load was with a 158 LRN with 12.0 grains AA#9. I used WSP primers. Below is test data in a S&W M27. This was data in much warmer weather. At 103 F, 12.0 grains AA#9 was close to my “reference” load of 13.5 grs 2400, so that’s what I used.

AA#9 is a very fine ball powder. It shot just fine in warm weather.

One round left a bullet in the throat of the 586, another round left a bullet lodged between the cylinder of the Colt and the throat.

Luckily I had a long shafted screwdriver and was able to knock the lead bullets out and continue shooting.

The bullet stuck in the 586 throat had a column of ball powder behind it. Ball powder was all over the mechanism, I had to get a paper towel and wipe it out from under the extractor star, cylinder recess.

Below is the case that was fired in the Colt. As you can see the bullet was shoved back in the case.


F3lwQts.jpg

SobhuKC.jpg

You would think the firing pin strike was powerful, but the indentation is deceptive.

xXFMOxJ.jpg

I may have had light primer strikes with the 586, but as you can see from the primer on the Colt case, I had deep primer indentations. I have looked at the fring pin protrusion with the 586, and that looks to be good. It really sticks out.

I loaded this ammunition on a Dillion 550B over a couple of years ago. Out of 100 rounds, these were the only two that stuck in the barrel, but I did have squib rounds.

Shot well, even out to 50 yards. The squib loads barely rocked the gong.


Smith & Wesson M27-2 6.5” barrel

158 LSWC 13.5grs 2400 R-P cases CCI primers
9-Oct-05 T = 64 °F
Ave Vel = 1273
Std Dev = 44.03
ES = 176.7
High = 1372
Low = 1195
N = 30

Very accurate.

158 LRN 12.0 grs AA#9 CCI500 Mixed cases
5-Aug-06 T = 103 °F
Ave Vel = 1278
Std Dev = 34.98
ES = 117.4
High = 1344
Low = 1226
N = 27
Accurate little or no leading

158 LRN 12.5 grs AA#9 CCI500 3-D cases
5-Aug-06 T = 103 °F
Ave Vel = 1348
Std Dev = 34.16
ES = 134.7
High = 1386
Low = 1251
N = 25
Very Accurate no leading

The very same month, maybe the next week, I went to the range with the M586 with a new mainspring. Temperatures were 50ish. Used the exact same load of a 158 L with 12.0 grains AA#9. No squibs. The conclusion is, the squib resulted due to a combination of a weak hammer strike, cold weather, and ball powders. Ball powders are harder to ignite and this difficultly increases in cold weather.

But, I used long shafted steel screwdrivers, and probably a block of wood to knock out the bullets. As you can see the standard screwdrive dug into the bullet, so if I had been at home, I would have been looking for a long shafted, 35 caliber punch. Drill rod might have worked, or grinding the tip down on a phillips head screwdriver. Something solid, something steel, and something close to bore diameter.
 
No wood, nothing tubular/hollow, nothing pointy or wedgy (Phillips or standard). You don't want to splinter, wedge, or expand anything in the bore. Flat ended solid brass or steel is best. If steel is used put a light chamfer on the edge and a couple wraps of tape right behind the end to prevent it from possibly gouging the rifling.
 
I keep 2 different dia brass rods 8 inches long and a brass hammer in my kit box for sticky brass or the occasional squib.
 
I had 2 more squib rounds last week on the same day in two pistols. One a taurus 605 .shooting .38 and a 9mm Ruger max 9. I did identify the issue. Lee autodisk powder measure slowly rotating and turning itself off and insufficient light over the bullet seater die where I can check the charge. Both issues resolved. As is happened the brass rods I ordered from amazon showed up the next day so that was easy. Into the vice. Tap tap tap and out they came. My press seems to have picked up some bad habits since it went into storage 7 years ago. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Captain Quack.
 
I had a used toilet flush handle with a brass rod attached and repurposed it by cutting both ends flat. It's long enough for my pistol barrels.
 
The barrel will be dry and dirty in the direction you intend to tap the bullet out.
If possible, clean the barrel with a oily patch to reduce friction. Or just put some oil in the barrel that can reach the bullet.
I would use a metal cleaning rod with a metal jag tip and a thin cotton oily patch to center the rod in the barrel and prevent gouging the barrel.


When loading I visually check powder levels in ten or twenty cases at a time with a maglite before seating bullets.
It's slow but my experience has been "the hurrier I go the behinder I get" as someone said in Alice in Wonderland.
 
I did drip a few drops of kroil down the barrels and let sit overnight. Thank you all who suggested I get some. Out nice and easy with a couple of taps. I'm not sure if this has helped at since I don't have much experience in how difficult it is to clear these but I figured it couldn't hurt.

Captain Quack.
 
I'm sure everyone will says no, no, no, but I use the biggest Phillips head screw driver I have.
When you stop screaming, please read my reasoning. The shaft is .315, just a little smaller than a
9mm or 38 barrel so it can't tip much side to side. The pointed tip is centered so it can't come in contact with the barrel but it does contact the center of the bullet that is stuck which is what you want and can't slide sideways as I said before. All the force is directed to the center of the bullet, regardless of shape.
So you gave a very good description of a splitting wedge...and thats how it might happen that your screw driver WIDENS the stuck bullet.
I can´t see what this would be good for, except give you an opportunity to handle an even bigger mess than you had beforehand.

To those advicing on aluminium rods: You know why aluminium usually does not show rust, do you?
Yes, it´s because aluminium will create an AL-Oxide surface.
If you want to know about that just wikipedia it:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxide
Yes, it is corundum. You want to hammer that inside your bore. Really?

Aluminium will work be ok if it has a fresh, non-oxided surface. You could create this by SANDING (uh, oh, sand in your barrel doesn´t sound too funny, does it?) or turning it in a lathe....if you have one.

Brass costs nearly nothing, a spoiled barrel will cost a fortune in comparison.

Don´t be el Cheapo: Buy a fitting brass rod and use that to do the job properly.

You all stay safe!

Carsten
 
I'm sure everyone will says no, no, no, but I use the biggest Phillips head screw driver I have.
If the bullet is really stuck, especially softer cast lead bullet, pointed Phillips head screw driver will pound into the bullet and can make the situation worse. (Ask me how I know ;))

While I recommend use of solid brass rod in appropriate diameter for the pistol barrel, in a pinch, I have used 1/4" socket extension wrapped with paper towel/plastic cling wrap to knock out bullets, especially really stuck bullets, against pieces of wood/2x4s.

Socket extension end is flat and won't pound into the bullet as much as pointed Phillips head screw driver.
 
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Okay, that's two of you. All I can say is it worked for me. Yes with a lead bullet it will dig into it but it hasn't been a problem. Maybe I was lucky that the bullet wasn't too far into the barrel (maybe 2" in a 6" barrel) but with the size screwdriver I used there is quite a bit of contact with the bullet, not just a small tip and absolutely no sharp edge can touch the inside of the barrel. You can't say that about a brass rod unless you chamfer the edge. I may have used a little Kroil, its been a while and I just don't remember.
 
with the ... screwdriver ... absolutely no sharp edge can touch the inside of the barrel. You can't say that about a brass rod unless you chamfer the edge.
Brass is copper/zinc alloy and softer than steel and won't scratch or mar the rifling/barrel crown. (Do you worry about sharp lip of case neck scratching the chamber mouth? ;))

Hardness of tool steel/Chrome Vanadium shafts of screwdrivers could mar the rifling/barrel crown with hard enough impact (And we are using hammering force to remove stuck bullets from the barrels).

As already posted, I prefer to use brass rod but when brass rod is not readily available, carefully wrapped 1/4" extension with paper towel/plastic cling wrap (To protect the rifling/barrel crown) has effectively removed stuck bullets with usually 1-2 taps instead of several hammering of screwdrivers with bullet still stuck in the barrel (Of course, based on my experience only).
 
Had a stuck Berry's plated projo in a 38 yesterday.

When careful use of oak dowel (sorry) and penetrating oil didn't budge it, I used the (googled) trick of putting the gun in the freezer for an hour... And it popped right out with two whacks!

Fearing condensation on internals, I popped the gun in the toaster oven on "warm" for a bit.

Reading this thread, didn't see the freezer trick, but it did work.

AA
 
Dead blow hammers don't rebound much because they absorb a lot of the impact. Steel hammers are much more efficient because they don't do this. I can't understand a need for a dead blow hammer to remove a squib. I use brazing rods for squib removal. Centerfire squibs have been few and far between but a 3/16" brazing rod is very handy for 22 rimfire if you shoot certain brand of what I call grandkid ammo and much stronger than ordinary brass. I don't know that strength is much of a factor. Making my living as a welder I had brazing rod available so it was an easy choice. Like other have already said, wood is a very poor choice. If you want to use aluminum use 6061 T as it won't mushroom like soft aluminum. Simply sand it smooth and apply polyurethane varnish to keep it from oxidixing and it will be ready to go when you need it.

I have a variety of different length and diameter pistol cleaning rods I have made using brazing rod and a piece of cast off broom handle.
 
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