Starting to load 223 and need some info on getting started

[1BADBERETTA]

Ok so i now reload 9mm on my lee loadmaster and want to add 223 and will be loading it on my loadmaster also. First question do i load 223 and 5.56 the same or do i need to keep them separate? I will be loading this for a AR15 for 3 gun and plinking i will not be needing sub MOA accuracy just mainly need reliable ammo i can hit a target at max 200yds. With that said what prep work do i need? I see some guys that seem to just load there 223 ammo like pistol calibers by that i mean just cleaning full length sizing and loading. Will i need to trim or are there any special steps i need to take other then the basic steps u do on straight wall cases? Thanks for any help i can get and i will take any and all advice given into consideration.

 

[zxcvbob]

Unless you have a match chamber, consider .223 and 5.56 to be the same.

I haven't loaded rifle ctgs in a while so I'm not going to give much detailed advice on it, but I didn't see you mention trimming the cases. Gotta do that after you size them.

 

[WVsig]

Check out this thread. I am using a Turret but a lot of the info remains the same.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=790263

 

[otisrush]

You gotta lube the case before sizing. It's not like doing straight walled cartridges with a carbide die. You don't need much - but you need it.

You don't always need to trim. Sometimes they're too long and sometimes they're not. (Check them after sizing.) I recently decided to experiment with trimming every case - because it's just easier than checking length, trimming if necessary, etc.

There are lots of ways to do it from a process standpoint - but I tumble prior to sizing to help keep the die clean, then I tumble again after sizing to get the lube off. (I also keep the two medias seperate. I "demote" the media used for the 2nd tumbling to be 1st tumbling media after I've used it for a while. Then I use it in the 1st cleaning for a while and, since it gets the dirtiest from the just-fired brass, I then toss it after it gets too dirty.)

 

[oldpapps]

I don't load with a Loadmaster but...

"do i load 223 and 5.56 the same or do i need to keep them separate? I will be loading this for a AR15"

Functionally the .223 and the 5.56 loading are the same thing... until you get to the load levels. It is the chamber/throating that is different.

Load like any other rifle/bottle necked case. It's an autoloader, so full length size, every time. I trim to length every time but that may be a little excessive, yet I always end up trimming just a shaving or two and square up the case mouth at the same time.

As for your actual load, load for the weapon, not for a name. Start with the starting load for the .223 with your selected components and work up from there till you get the results you want. The top end for the .223 as listed isn't far from the top loading for the 5.56, so unless you have 5.56 data, don't go into uncharted or over the limit territory just for your own safety.

I have a Lee Pro 1000 but with my obsession to trim after sizing and wanting to clean the brass after sizing (to get the scale out of the inside of the cases), I don't use my progressive. I prefer to hand prime and that leaves only seating the bullet... a single stage process.

There is no magic to loading good rounds for an AR. Consistency is the key in all loading. Be safe.

 

[steve4102]

There is absolutely NO difference between the 223 and the 5.56 to the handloader.

There is no such thing as 5.56 dies, only 223.

The bullets are the same.

The dimensions are the same.

The load data is the same (cept Western has some 5.56 62K psi data).

The brass is the same.

The only difference is the crimped primer pocket. Once that is removed the 5.56 brass will be the same as the 223 brass.

...and NO, 5.56 brass is not heavier and NO, it does not have less case capacity than 223 brass.

 

[1BADBERETTA]

So I need to clean my brass, size, trim then im ready to load correct? What the best way to check to see if it needs trimming? im guessing just put calipers on it? Again guys thanks for the help I like to learn so keep it coming.

 

[vongh]

I trim all my brass. Its just easier than measuring each case. Also remember to remove that primer crimp on your 5.56 cases.

 

[rcmodel]

If you are using GI or NATO brass, the primers are crimped in place.

You will have to remove the crimp by reaming, or swaging before you can reprime them.

And DO NOT miss the advice about case lube for sizing.

You can't do it without it.

rc

 

[W.E.G.]

GET A CASE GAGE IMMEDIATELY.


Half of the posts that follow the theme of "my .223 handloads won't work" are due to incorrectly resized brass.

You can't set the shoulder to a known dimension unless you have a tool to measure your work.

 

[gamestalker]

Trimming is an integrated step for me, and is less cumbersome than measuring each piece of brass, and then having to handle it a second time to trim.

Another tip, don't bother crimping, it isn't necessary unless you will be shooting them from a MG, which will only complicate an other wise simplistic process.

GS

 

[P-32]

Hi, long time competitive Service Rifle shooter with 223.
A couple of things. You do not need a small base die set for 223. But you will need to raise the ram so the shell holder touches the bottom of the die. Lower the Ram and turn the size die another 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock it. If you raise the ram again all the way up you will feel "cam over" to get the ram all the way up. Be sure to lube the case, then size the case. You will not have quite as much cam over when the ram is at the top when sizing the case.
Cartridge gauge....I randomly grab a sized case, (lube cleaned off) and check to see if the case will chamber and eject easily. I drop an empty case in the chamber and close the bolt. The bolt won’t close on a case that is not sized correctly. The case won’t eject easily if not sized correctly.
If using GI brass you must remove the primer crimp. I like the Dillon Super Swag as it goes fast and I like the feel of a swaged pocket over a cut one when priming.
Best money spent for creating accurate ammo with GI brass is a primer pocket uniformer.
Get a good set of calipers and for trimming I like the Forster. Easy to set up and trimming goes pretty fast.
I shoot Sierra Match Kings which don’t have a crimp groove and I subsequently don’t crimp the rounds. I use neck tension only to hold the bullet. To ensure good neck tension I use a Redding Bushing die with the bushing sized for GI brass thickness. (works OK for other brass though too)
I would be willing to bet my twist rate is a bit faster than yours but for light bullets I find 748 gives me good results and foor the heavies, 77 and 80 gr SMK’s Reloder 15 is my fav. Varget does OK too. Varget does really good with 55 gr. FMJ’s. For primers I use Rem 7 ½’s or CCI BR’s.

Oh, and be sure to wrute down everything you do. This way you won't try something that did not work over again. Good luck, Tim

 

[1BADBERETTA]

Looks like im going to be getting some type of case prep center. Been looking at the Franklin Arsenal case prep center simply because i can prep and trim on it all at once. What type of gauge do you recommend? i had just planned on getting a simple Lyman case length gauge to drop check everything. So it just seems the big difference in rifle vs straight wall pistol is a large amount of case prep and a good lube. What are some good budget bullets for plinking and what is a good powder to start with. I had thought about using Varget for 223 since i can also use it when i start loading 308 in a few months.

 

[tcoz]

I use the FA case prep center for exactly that reason. All in one and it works well. As far as a case gauge consider a Sheridan slotted gauge. It's pretty pricey but well worth it. Unlike other gauges it's sized to exact minimum SAAMI specs so if your finished round passes the gauge it'll chamber guaranteed. If it doesn't pass, you can tell visually exactly where the problem is.
H335 is a good powder for 223 and there's a lot of load data available for it.

 

[Dudedog]

I trim all my brass. Its just easier than measuring each case.

I use the Worlds Finest Trimmer (WFT)
I just run all of them thru the trimmer, faster than measuring.


I use this case guage and am happy with it.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/456614/le-wilson-case-length-headspace-gage-223-remington

 

[tcoz]

I only trim when needed because each case that's trimmed also has to be chamfered and deburred so the three processes together do take a bit of time plus trimming is the one case prep job that I just don't like doing. Instead of actually measuring each case I set my calipers at .002" under the max case length and then try to slide each case through. If it doesn't fit through, I trim and if it does, I don't trim. Takes a fraction of a second and saves maybe 15-20 seconds per case which adds up especially if you're trimming every case after every time it's fired. If you trim to the trim to length you really shouldn't have to trim again for at least a few firings.