Stevens 520

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Slaterface

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I just purchased a Stevens 520 12 Ga. for $150 at my local shop. I always thought they were neat so I picked it up but I think I paid a bit too much for it.

Anyway…. I can’t find much information on the guns. Mine has a 26” barrel, the dealer told me it was a modified choke (but it is not marked on the gun). Can anyone point me in the right direction for information?

I think it may have been cut down. In fact, the wood does not look original as I have never seen this on similar 520s. Additionally, while I can open the breach using the release button, when I dry fire the gun I can not work the action.

Any input?

Thanks.
 
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My 520 is marked as a Montgomery Wards 35. It is a 20 guage with a 28" barrel with no choke markings though it shoots a full choke pattern. I also have a 16 gauge Stevens 620 with a polychoke added to it's 26" barrel that does have a very tiny F on the left side of the barrel ring. I paid $60 for the 20 gauge about 30 years ago and $50 for the 16 two years ago, but it has a busted shell lifting lever spring; both guns were "steals" at those prices. Both guns will not pump open on the first attempt after a dry fire[or regular fireing], but will on the second. Just another little John Browning touch, to make them safer and quicker by preventing inadvertent recoil pumps, I think.
 
Stevens 520 Trench gun

You may have a modified 520-30 trench gun. I carried one for a couple of years down on the Mexican border as a Customs Patrol Officer. We got a ton of surplus military shotguns and I picked the 520. I believe it was a Browning design that they decided not to market and sold the rights to Stevens who then manufactured them for other stores as well the military. The Win. M12 took its place as the GI trench gun. My 520 had a bayonet lug and heat-shield combo on the barrel. You had to buy a couple of extra parts to hold the magazine tube to the barrel if you took that shield off so I left it. The reason you may be having trouble opening it after dropping the hammer is that it is not disconnecting because there is no recoil. Model 12s will do the same thing. Try pushing the slide forward after pulling the trigger without a round in it and see if it will then come on back. If you query what I put up there in the title in Google, you'll get lots of links including one to e-gunparts.com (Numrich) which still has parts. Stocks and forends are also available. Wish I had mine back as a memento of nights walking the Rio Grande.

Here's a link for e-gunparts:
http://www.e-gunparts.com/products.asp?chrMasterModel=089Zz520&MC=
 
Some of the 520's (including one I have on my workbench right now) will not even open after you press the slide forward. It should function when you shoot it, given that you plant the stock firmly in your shoulder. If you have an overwhelming desire to imitate recoil, make sure that gun is UNLOADED, rack the slide, pull the trigger, then turn the gun over and slam it barrel first into a carpeted workbench or floor. It take a pretty good whack, so if you can just go shoot it at the range...
 
Not sure what all info your looking for that hasn't already been posted but I will add a couple cents worth.

Unlikely that it is a modified military gun as the riot/military had a 20 inch tube. Sometimes the military used shotguns with longer tubes for training but any military contract model would have been stamped with US and a flaming bomb marking on the receiver.

Both the 20ga and the 16 ga came with 26 inch tubes, so yours may be factory length rather than a cut down one. You may have to measure the inside of the tube to find the choke.

These guns were take-down models meaning the barrel and magazine tube can be disassembled easily from the receiver - (some people miss this feature) if you don't know how to do the take down pm me.

The bolt/slide lock mechanizm on these guns are simular to most all pumps in that when the hammer falls it activates the lock lever downward to release the slide. On the Stevens design however the tension from the bolt & extractors can prevent the release lever from dropping down far enough to clear the lug on the bolt slide. Often times a little forward pressure on the slide will work to release that small amount of tension, and allow the bolt/slide release to drop down far enough to clear.

If it doesn't unlock during shooting, or by pulling forward on the slide, then internal adjustment, or parts replacement may be required.
 
thanks for ressurecting this thread. i just got a 520 stevens last night. it is absolutely beautiful. long as heck barrel with a polychoke, 12g, no markings at all on the entire gun that I can tell except for the serial number on the underside tang.

can somebody explain the proper function of the pump? I think I've figured it out - you push the release, pull the slide back, forward until it locks, fire, then you pull it back... repeat.. right? you should not have to hit the release button except the one time before the first shot?

and, what ammo is safe to shoot through this gun? I have 7.5 express, a whole bunch of reduced recoil 00 buck. slugs, too.

ps: which choke is appropriate? ive completely forgotten which is which.
 
can somebody explain the proper function of the pump? I think I've figured it out - you push the release, pull the slide back, forward until it locks, fire, then you pull it back... repeat.. right? you should not have to hit the release button except the one time before the first shot?

You do have it correct. Sometimes on this model however a little forward pressure on the forearm is needed to allow the bolt lock to drop down and release the slide. When the hammer is down however, you should not need to manualy push the bolt release.(when fired with a round in the chamber you should not have to pull forward to get this release - if that is required then adjustment is needed)

These are good quality guns but were made some time ago. I would avoid magnum loads. All 2&3/4 " non-magnum loads however should do just fine, and I wouldn't worry much if I had to shoot an occasional magnum round. Reduced buckshot loads should be just peachy .

In todays world of ammo the modified choke seems to be the all purpose setting. With a polychoke you can do the patterning work with your favorite load and adjust as needed.
 
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