Stock Bedding - Removal of Clay

[sign216]

What solvent is good for flushing out modeling clay, without harming wood or blueing?

I bedded a CZ bolt action w Acraglas, and beforehand filled in the action's nooks w dollar store modeling clay to keep the glass from creeping in.
Bedding went well, but is there solvent I can use to clean out the clay from the action's crevices? I want to reach for acetone, but I heard that can harm some blueing (G_d only knows what blueing they used in Czechoslovakia). Will water, or rubbing alcohol work?

And some clay transferred to the stock, which is new, unfinished walnut. I'd like to clean the walnut, again without causing damage.

Joe

P.S. I took some unused clay and tried it against water, and against 91% rubbing alcohol. The clay wasn't readily dissolving in either.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Itty bitty scraper?

 

[sign216]

I've tried a small wooden spatula, a toothpick, and a needle. The recesses are difficult to clean. I was thinking perhaps WD-40, and heating the receiver would let the clay to run out. The clay in wood pores are more difficult.

 

[243winxb]

Dremel tool brushes or cut down an old tooth brush.

 

[sign216]

243Win,
The toothbrush idea sounds good for the walnut stock. I think acetone can be safely used on the unfinished wood, so the toothbrush w that should work (I hope).

 

[4v50 Gary]

I'm hesitant to use any chemical. Best get a sample of that "clay" and test it on a ceramic suface. I would also try a hair dryer to see if it makes it more pliable. Then a dental pick can be used to lift it out.

 

[243winxb]

acetone

Not good for bedding.

 

[sign216]

243Win,
Thanks for that. I'll just use the toothbrush without the acetone. The clay is embedded in parts of the bedding, and much may not come out. Fortunately it's down where the action sits, so it won't visible when the rifle is assembled. I may have to live with it.

4v50,
The clay doesn't hold together well, so it's not coming out in good pieces. Rather than heat, I might try cold; letting the action sit outside in the morning when it's 40F out, and see if that makes the clay harder, and easier to pick out.

Joe

 

[4v50 Gary]

BTW, we used real modelling clay and not Dollar Tree stuff.

 

[NMexJim]

In rebuilding some old shotgun forearms where the wood was falling apart and dams were needed to rebuild contours, I've had a lot of what you've experienced. I used brushes with isopropyl alcohol and military-grade solvent. Bedding compound is pretty tough stuff. I've not found a little solvent to be much of a problem.

I've used all of Brownell's products as well as 3M, Devcon, and even JB Weld. None ever melted after it set with anything I've been able to find. There were times when I wished I could have found such a thing.

There are different release agents that will help. Clear shoe polish is one. I know it sounds like a gun forum myth but it works. Experiment with it. You can fill the adjacent wood pores to avoid epoxy or clay (I've seen some ragged stuff). Then it's easy to remove. You just have to be very careful to not get it where you want epoxy. It's usually my last step and done w/ great care.

I use shoe polish to mount scope bases w/ Devcon. It would be foolish to do such a thing with something that didn't work. I want the Devcon to adhere to the scope base, not the rifle. We may see some flak here. To that, I'll say that I will guarantee that even the celebrated Remington 700 receivers are not necessarily true. They are ground and polished by hand and you can/will get some scope base rock if you're not careful. Now, this has probably gone far enough to be a topic for another forum.

Anyway, good luck.

 

[sign216]

Thx NMexJim,
I checked, and the clay isn't solvable in acetone. Also check WD-40 and Marvel Mystery Oil, and it's slightly solvable in both.
So...for the receiver, I'll try removing it cold first. And then go with Marvel M. Oil and a little heat from a hair dryer (thx 4v50Gary) to see if that clears it.

As for the stock, just a plain toothbrush, and I'll live w the clay remnants, since there's not many alternatives.

Joe

 

[NMexJim]

Woah backem, is the receiver stuck in the stock?

 

[sign216]

NMex,
No, it's not stuck. The clay merely transferred from the receiver holes to the stock.

 

[NMexJim]

Ah, good deal.

 

[Blue68f100]

I would think modeling clay would be water based. Since they normally use water in the shaping process before baking.

 

[sign216]

I would think modeling clay would be water based. Since they normally use water in the shaping process before baking.

The fresh clay was not water soluble, nor soluble in acetone or alcohol. It was soluble in WD-40 and mineral spirits/mineral oil (Marvel Mystery Oil).

 

[sign216]

Research shows two common types of modeling clay; air dry clay and polymer clay. However, other "clays" exist, and go by different names, like epoxy clay or sculpting compound. But for us, we are likely to find common air dry clay or polymer clay.

Air dry clay sets (hardens) with exposure to air, but can also be baked, and shrinks. Even after baking it is water soluble.

Polymer clay must be baked to harden, and doesn't shrink. It is not water soluble, even when soft. People recommend many diff things to soft or dissolve it: 91-99% alchohol (91% didn't work for me), acetone (not for me), oils, turpentine, mineral spirits, etc. For me, WD-40 and mineral spirits/oil worked.

Recap: I've got clay stuck in the two crevices of the bolt action receiver. It must be polymer clay. Picking it out or pipe cleaners aren't fully effective, mainly because the clay is too soft, and breaks apart. I'm going to "chill" the action in the morning air (40F here) and see if that firms the clay for removal. If that doesn't work, I'll go the other way, and warm the action w a hair dryer (thx 4v50Gary) and then flush it out w WD-40. That's something of a last resort, as I don't want the dissolved clay to creep deep into the action and cause problems down the road.

Any other ideas or tips?

 

[Mizar]

Scrape it first with a dull knife, toothpick, hard plastic scrapper, some wooden pick that you have cut to shape with a pocket knife, or whatever comes in handy and doesn't scratch the finish. Follow with stiff brush (not a toothbrush) - plastic for the wood, brass for the steel. Remove the tiny traces of clay (if it's Plasticine, what you should be using in the first place) in the action with white spirit and some more brushing. Don't sweat too much about it. Go shooting. Post pictures.