Stock Re-finishing?

Status
Not open for further replies.

pinetree64

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2003
Messages
292
Location
Cumming, GA
I have a Remington BDL with the black tip fore-end and a high gloss poly finish. I was thinking about stripping the poly and oiling the stock. The stock has seen over a decade of hunting and is getting a little banged-up.

Do you guys have any experience with this or can you point me to a site that may be helpful? I was going the BLO route.
 
What you wish to do is actually a fairly easy process. You can do it with the action still in the stock or not though since you have to remove the poly finish you should probably remove the action and work with just the stock.

1. Remove the poly finish - use the method of your choice.
2. Once the poly is off lightly sand the stock with a 400 grit or finer sand paper.
3. Lightly sand with 000 or better steel wool.
4. Wipe down the stock thoroughly to remove dust, grit, steel wool etc.
5. I recommend tung oil or linseed oil (I like linseed). Liberally apply the oil of your choice to a rag - cotton works good - use a fine, not coarse weave - apply to stock and keep on rubbing until the stock stops feeling tacky.
6. Set the stock aside in a cool dry place for 24 hours.
7. Repeat steps 3 thru 6 daily until you get the finish you want.

Once you get the finish you desire you can follow up with a coat of good paste wax for wood though that is not really necessary. I tried it once - adds a bit of sheen - and since I prefer a satin finish didn't do it again.

Steps 3 thru 6 will take about 15 to 30 minutes for each application. For the last coat (I usually do the abover for about a week) I'll do a hand rub and keep on going until the stock feels dry and then let it sit for another 24. I finish up with a very, very light going over with 000 steel wool or finer and then one last wipe down.

I've done this on a win 94, garand, stoeger SXS and the stock grips that came on a couple of Ruger Vaqueros.

Works great.

Oh! One last thing! I've never tried it but I understand you can get the dents and dings out using water and heat. Don't know the exact method but I'm sure someone here does or you can google it up. If you try to get out the dents and dings do that after step 2.
 
pinetree64,

You're gonna get alot of different opinions to your question, and most of them won't be wrong, just the way the person replying does it. That said...I have refinished quite a few stocks over the years and my method has changed nearly every time because I found something that I liked better. Most of my projects have been on rifles over 50 years old so I've never had to remove polycoat, you'll have to figure that part out yourself.

Once the finish is removed I look at the worst of the damage. Is it dents(wood pushed in) or gouges and scrapes(wood missing)? If its dents I try to steam them out as much as possible with a regular household iron and a 'wet' shop towel, don't let your wife catch you using her iron for this, ask me how I know!!!! Heat the iron to high(like for cotton), take the shop towel and fold it double, dip a corner in a bowl of water, place the dripping wet corner over the dent and place the hot iron over the dent and let it steam until the corner is dry. May take more than one time to get the dent to raise as much as its going to.

Once I'm happy the dents are removed as much as they can be, I sand the stock with 220 grit on one of the rubber blocks you get at x-mart for about $2 to get rid of all the shallow scrapes, deep gouges, you have to make the call on those. For smaller areas I use a piece of sandpaper wrapped around one of those pink erasers you used to use in school when you were a kid, makes a perfect backer so you done get 'waves'. If you use a 'filler' putty, even the stainable ones show. I tend to sand them out if I can, or leave them and call it character if I can't.

Next I add color if needed as wood varies over the years and I'm kind partial to the old arsenal red/brown walnut tone. I was using Birchwood Casey's walnut stain, but it is water based and lightens too much with the next step in the proccess. My last project a guy on another forum suggested using a product called 'French Red stock filler' available through Brownells. Used it for the first time last eve so the jury is still out, but I can say I love the color if it takes.

Then I take and mix Birchwood Casey Tru-oil 50/50 with mineral spirits and 'hand rub' on the first coat and let it dry for a full 48 hours. I take the same mix and 'sand in' the next three coats with 400 grit w/d sandpaper with about 24 hours dry time and a very light buff, just down to the surface with 0000 steel wool between each coat. The sanded in coats fill the grain and give you a glass smooth finish when you're done. Then I start hand rubbing the 50/50 mix in every 24 hours til I have about 12-15 coats. If you want a gloss finish, leave the last coat dry for about 48-72 hours before you touch the stock. If you want a satin finish, lightly buff the stock with a paper soft towel after about 48 hours. If you want a flat finish, buff lightly with 0000 steel wool after about 48 hours. The 'French Red stock filler' in the last step above may eliminate the three coats of 'sand in', we'll have to wait and see how it turns out.

Basically it's a lot of hard work and elbow grease, $200 finish on a $100 .22 rifle, but it keeps me honest. Good luck with your project, however you decide to do it....:D
 
I just refinished my Remington BDL. Get started. It's not that difficult and the rifle looks much, much better when you're done.

I used some heavy duty liquid stripper from a big box store. Took a few heavy coats but the Remington finish will come off. Then I carefully sanded the stock down to remove any residual finish. Be very careful with the checkering, you don't want to sand it off. Also be careful sanding around the buttpad area - it's pretty easy to round off the edges which will be very noticeable when you put the pad back on. I had replaced my pad with a Simms pad and kept the original. When refinishing, I reattached the original but pad so that I wouldn't sand off the edges. I'd encourage you to do somehting similar.

Order a piece of ebony (or rosewood) from Brownell's. I ordered both and decided that the ebony would look nicer.

I decided to try a finishing kit from Brownell's (something like "African Finish") that has about 4 elements to it. Took a lot of time (many, many coats with drying time in between). But the results were great. Nice satin finish.

I had previously refinished a 10/22 using TruOil and I'm not convinced that TruOil alone wouldn't do a great, and much simpler, job. When I refinish my next rifle, I'm thinking of trying it to compare the results.

Good luck and dive in. You'll be very happy when your rifle doesn't look like it's made out of plastic.

Also, while you're at it (and if it isn't already done), why not pillar bed the rifle? I did using Devcon and a pillar system from Brownell's. If you still have a sporter barrel on the rifle, plan on adding a front pressure pad as well.

Final package is a great looking rifle that shoots as good as it looks.
 
chad1043 said:
DO NOT SAND YOUR STOCK

Hmmmmmm...
The link you pointed to seems to disagree.

Outdoor Life - Refinish your Stock said:
5. Sand the Raw Stock
With the old finish removed and the stock dry, start lightly sanding the stock and grip using a sanding block. Do not sand the checkering. Cover the checkering with tape to protect it from accidental overruns.

Use a large, lightly padded sanding block for smooth, full-length strokes, maintaining straight and flat surfaces. The buttplate must remain in place during the sanding operation or some rounding of the wood at the butt edges will occur-a sure sign of amateur refinishing.
 
I want to refinish a Mosin Stock with boiled linseed oil. What's the best (least destructive) method for removing the lacquer?
 
I use Klean-Strip/Klean Kutter liquid refinisher. It has worked well
for me and doesn't seem to damage the wood. It has a high vapor
pressure so quickly vanishes.

For a good finish, do a search on THR for Minwax Antique Oil Finish.
One of the members asdvised using it his way and gave detailed
directions. I followed and got very nice (the best) results. Some others
tried it and reported back very positively as well.
 
The only problem I've seen with Lin-seed oil is the drying time. Even though it appears to be dry, the under side of it could take weeks.

I prefer Tung-oil or Tru-Oil for that reason.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top