Stopping verdigris on old leather & brass?

[rcmodel]

Probably an age old question since the bronze age.
When somebody's sword hanger turned his ungirded sweaty loin green and his legion commander put him on latrine duty with the slaves?

I found years ago I could stop it from starting on my handmade belts, holsters & sheaths by putting a drop of Super-Glue on the brass or copper rivets, snaps and flap button posts.
It apparently soaks into the leather grain and seals it from the brass fittings.
Which stops the chemical reaction that causes verdigris.

However, what about old WWI & WWII leather that has already been attacked?
I can clean it off, but that green slime is eating the brass under the leather, and some day, it will eat through it.

I have tried the Super-Glue on old GI leather, without success.

Any ideas on how to stop or slow it down after it gets a foothold under the leather where you can't get to it?

rc

 

[Mizar]

Hi, Rc. I don't think that you can stop verdigris from developing on old leather. You just have to clean it frequently. For cleaning verdigris on leather mix baking soda and white vinegar to make a paste, rub it on the stain and leave it for couple of minutes. Clean with tooth picks or pipe cleaners and wash it with wet sponge and shaving soap. Be careful - it may discolor slightly the leather. I have read that boiling the new brass part in soapy water puts a protective film on it, but I haven't tried it. One thing about CA glue and leather - it makes it brittle.

Boris

 

[rcmodel]

Thanks Mizar!

rc

 

[Mizar]

Rc - you got me thinking... For new, un-oxidized brass have you tried cold bluing it? It gives brass a very nice brown patina and it makes it more prone to oxidation. But I don't know how durable this artificial patina is. Other ways of patinating brass - sulfur mixed with lard (or tallow) is applied to brass that is heated to around 200 F - I have not tried this method.
I have an acquaintance that is a professional archaeologist and has done some general restoration work for several museums here. I will ask him about your verdigris dilemma and for possible ways of preventing it, but it will take me some time.

Best,
Boris

 

[rcmodel]

Well, like I said, I got it pretty much whipped on new stuff I make myself.
Using vegetable tanned leather with no acids in it, and either plated fittings, or using super-glue on all brass or copper stuff before the parts are sewn & riveted.

My concern is more on old collectible, and getting pricey, military leather.
Often, the verdigris is down inside the leather parts, like the flap button and rivets on a 1918 .45 holster.
http://www.collectorsfirearms.com/admin/product_details.php?itemID=19835

There is just no way to get to it without cutting the stitching and taking the holster apart.
And sooner or later, the verdigris will eat through the fittings from the inside out.

I appreciate the offer to ask your professional friend.
Hope he has some ideas.

rc

 

[Mizar]

Rc, sorry for the delay. Unfortunately my friend is not in to leather restoring - he deals with ancient ceramic, glass and etc.
One last thought - have you considered browsing thru some traditional wet shaving forums? Those guys are often collectors of vintage DE razors and do restore them. One common problem with old DE razors is verdigris build up and they usually clean it with chemical baths. http://badgerandblade.com/ is such a place.

Best,
Boris

 

[rcmodel]

Thanks Mizar.

I'll check into that.

rc

 

[Dr.Rob]

I've got an old safari pouch for big rifle rounds.. all I can do is wipe it off now and again. the leather has so MUCH stuff in it that what ever is weeping out over time is turning the brass studs blue/green.

I've stored it in plastic with paper towels to soak up some of the excess, but to no avail. it wasn't a pricey thing but I can't seem to find a happy medium to preserve it.

 

[4v50 Gary]

After cleaning, treat the leather and it's metal with Renaissance Wax. Developed by the British Museum, it is PH neutral and is used by museum conservators worldwide.

 

[rcmodel]

The problem is, you can't get inside the leather parts where the verdigris is developing inside the fittings to put wax on them.

For instance, rivets are going in one side and out the other.

The flap button on a 1911 holster has a leather patch sewn over it on the inside.

Verdigris forms inside the leather and creeps out around the fittings, while slowly eating them up from the inside out.

rc