Suddenly -- light strikes w/ my 629! Argh.

[P. Plainsman]

I bought my 4" S&W 629 a few months ago, NIB, current production. It has become my favorite revolver, since it is highly accurate, handsome, versatile, and feels good in the hand. Plus it came with a decent trigger right out of the box, which only got better with use. Much better.

Note that I haven't touched a thing on this gun. Just shot it (c. 800-1000 rounds) and dryfired it a medium amount. In the last month, it's felt like the DA action has turned a corner -- it's noticeably smoother, lighter. My ideal revolver trigger.

So I go to the range last week to put this smooth trigger through its paces, and all of a sudden I'm getting FTFs! Light primer strikes. This happened with several different brands of .44 Special ammo -- Hornady, Speer, Cor-Bon, none of which I've previously had problems with in this gun. Indeed, the gun had never malfunctioned until last week.

The problem was particularly bad with slow double action fire -- I was getting 20-25% FTFs. Even with a fast, "combat" DA trigger pull it was at least 10% dud strikes. Primers in the non-fired rounds were visibly dented by the pin. I couldn't tell a difference visually between the pin marks in the fired cases and the failed cases.

On the other hand, when I switched to single action fire, I got proper ignition every time.

My favorite revolver is suddenly bobbling and I'm P.O.'d. I'd call this the classic scenario of a gunsmithing job gone wrong, except that there's been no gunsmithing or alteration here whatsoever. Just use.

Can a gunsmith fix my 629 without eliminating the excellent qualities of the revolver's action? Is this sort of problem fixable by, I don't know, bringing the firing pin "forward" more so it sinks deeper into the primer?

Thoughts and suggestions much appreciated.

EDIT TO ADD: The trigger return is still nice and crisp. It doesn't feel like the springs have gone flabby. It just feels like a classic, high quality S&W double action pull.

 

[Catbird]

Have you checked the hammer spring strain screw? If necessary, tighten it all the way.

 

[Standing Wolf]

Have you checked the hammer spring strain screw? If necessary, tighten it all the way.

If that's not the problem, try swapping main springs with another N frame. It's possible to get a bum spring now and then.

If you need to replace the spring, you're better off with one from http://www.gunspringscom than Smith & Wesson: fewer bum springs.

 

[Majic]

Since the trigger got noticably lighter just recently I would say the strain screw has been backing out and gotten to the point of the misfires.

 

[loose cannon]

and if all the above doesnt cure it take it to a smith or if ur a smith order and instal a extra length firing pin from brownells.

these pins are advertised a a fix for unrealiable ignition from the modern frame mount firing pin s&ws.

 

[deadin]

I vote for the strain screw or a failing hammerspring. The reson it works better in SA over DA is that in the S&W lockwork the SA sear causes more flex in the spring than does the DA. Sounds like you are right on the cusp and just that little bit is making the difference between bang and click. Could also be a problem with the DA sear, but that is unlikely. The sideplate would have to be pulled to check.
Dean

 

[P. Plainsman]

Useful advice, folks, as is the norm at THR. Thanks. I will post a follow-up.

PS: loose cannon, this is one of my favorite Keith quotes too:

trying to bluff a criminal who is holding a gun on you is very poor business and often leads you to soft music and the scent of lilies. elmer keith,"sixguns" (1955)

 

[P. Plainsman]

Strain screw had worked loose -- way loose. You guys nailed it.

I tightened the screw back up, not quite all the way, but to what I hope is a happy medium. I will take the 629 to the range again soon and see if it is back up to 100% ignition. Once I reach that point, I think I'll use blue Loc-Tite to fix the screw in place.

Any cautions or counter-suggestions also welcome, of course.

THR is like those animated public service spots at the end of the old G.I. Joe cartoon telling kids not to put their hands on the stove or talk to strangers, only a lot more useful.

Knowing is Half the Battle.

 

[Jet22]

I tightened the screw back up, not quite all the way

Tighten the strain screw all the way. Thats not the way to lighten the trigger pull on a Smith...you'll just make it unrealiable.

If you want a lighter trigger pull for little work, clip (grind) a coil off the rebound spring. When you do this, go little at a time, or have an extra rebound spring avalible in case you go too far. As far as working on a Smith trigger...the best advice I have ever read is shoot it for a year to let it break in before doing anything!

 

[DB]

Jet22 is right... The strain screw should be all the way tight. Blue Locktite on the threads is not a bad idea either.

 

[ChristopherG]

Depending on your uses and management of the gun, there's nothing wrong with what you propose--tightening it most of the way and loc-tite-ing it. This is SOP for revolver competitors. You just need to test your chosen loads for reliable ignition--like a whole box or more, not just 6--and know that with the lightened pull, your gun might have trouble igniting some primers (this is why competition wheelgunners shoot Federal standard pistol primers religiously).

 

[tgfang]

A useful thread to me, as I just experienced light strikes with my new-to-me Model 25-2.

How tight is "all the way"? Using a screw driver bit and handle, I was easily able to tighten the strain screw on my revolver to a state that I would call "snug" (it took about a quarter of a turn). It feels as though I could tighten the screw farther, but I am not sure whether or not I should do that. After the tightening, it does seem to require a little more force to cock the revolver.

Tom

 

[Majic]

How tight is "all the way"?

Till the screw will no longer turn.

If you want a lighter trigger pull for little work, clip (grind) a coil off the rebound spring.

Or get the Wolff spring kit with a selection of 3 rebound springs in various weights.

 

[Bronco45]

On the mainspring strain screw tighten all the way and then put some clear nail polish on the screw head. This is a lot easier to dissolve than blue loc tite. Breaks free with acetone.

Do not clip the trigger rebound spring especially on an N Frame they lose their set and tend to bend and bind. Order a set from Wolffs and use a medium to heavy one.

35 years of packin a Smith daily has taught me about cutting trigger rebound springs. You might get away with it on a K frame but you're headed for trouble with an N frame.

 

[MassMan]

light strikes w/ 629

Call Smith & Wesson. They're customer service is excellent!!!! I am sure they will take care of your problem.

 

[tgfang]

How tight is...

Majic and Bronco45:

So I can use some force tightening the strain screw, rather than just using my thumb and one finger on the screwdriver grip?

The "snug" tightening that I gave it did help. I am still getting some light strikes with one batch of reloads that I bought, but reliable ignition with a batch from another source.

Tom

 

[Majic]

Well you don't want to try and pull the treads out, but you want to snug it up tight.
If you have any more of the reloads from the batch that gave you light strikes then look closely at the primers. They should sit slightly below the base of the case (use a factory cartridge for comparasion). If they are even or a little higher than the base of the case then when you fire the revolver the firing pin will drive the primer down to the bottom of the primer pocket. This will give you the light primer strike. Just run that round thru again and most likely it will go off. This is something you should pay attention to on all reloads whether homemade or commercial.