Suggestions to build a 1911

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DST

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Hi people,

I'm new to this forum and will be new to firearms ownership shortly. Grew up going to the range quite a bit and shot an IPSC match with my pops (with a 9mm), and a few amateur rifle matches roughly 8 years ago, so no stranger to firearms but it’s been a while. While searching the net for information I was surprised by the appearance of reasonableness on this website. Not the always the case when it comes to firearms. Cheers to the moderators and contributors for keeping it sane.

I’m posting because I’ll be inheriting a few firearms, including the lower (frame, trigger, maybe some internals) of a 1911. Stainless, single-stack, originally either a 45 or 38 super, good shape, but don’t know too much else about it yet – I’ll see it in a few weeks.

I’d like to re-assemble it, and am quite open to the possibilities for a build. It needs a new barrel and slide at a minimum. So 9mm or 45 (or others?) are possibilities. I’m not looking for a race-gun, but something that will be enjoyable to shoot at the range, have open sights and accurate. I anticipate only using it for target practice.

So if this isn’t too broad a question, what would you recommend as far as general configuration ?

Caliber?

Length?

Any “kits” on the market that provide good value and outcome?

I’m a frugal guy, but spend where appropriate. Ie/ I don’t want to waste money on cheap parts I’ll regret, and likewise expensive parts I just don’t need, or won’t really appreciate.

Not sure what’s possible, so your suggestions are appreciated, even if it includes a referral to another message board specifically tied to the 1911 (?) or referral to a specific vendor etc.

Cheers!
 
Not even a professional pistolsmith is comfortable building something from unknown parts.


First thing that you need to do is identify what you have, more than just down to who made it. This isn't a project for an amateur. This really is a project for an expert.
 
Once you have the gun / parts in hand, prepare an inventory list and post a query in the "gunsmithing" forum. With that at hand, you can get decent advice.

A bit of warning, however--even with part in hand, building a 1911 from scratch is a bit like buying a car from the parts department of the dealership. It will cost 5x to 10x as much.

I built my 1911 about twenty years ago--and I have about $1400.00 in 1995 dollars in it, probably more. That's about $2800 2010 dollars--and it is nowhere near the gun you can buy for $2500.00, nor probably any better than a typical $1000.00 Kimber or Springfield.

Jim H.
 
There are plenty of good books on the topic, spend a few minutes on Amazon and pick up a few.
 
Thanks for the welcome and advice gents. I'll continue with the research and will look at the other forums suggested.
 
Building a good M1911 shooter is not rocket science or nuclear physics, but note that building a top quality competion gun is a bit more involved.

Do the research. There are many good books on information on assembling and building an M1911. Jerry Kuhnhausen wrote a good one but there are lots of others. Get or read several to see several different presentations of the work.

Wilson, Baer, Caspian, Brown and others make excellent parts. Caspian sells good slides. Bar Sto, Wilson, Storm Lake, Kart and others make good barrels. Get good parts.

Being familiar with the complete assembly and disassembly of an M1911 is very helpful. Many of the parts require some fitting and if you know how they go in the gun, it makes the fitting easier. Fitting the sear, barrel and barrel bushing are the most difficult. There are tools and jigs available for that that are not too expensive and make the job infinitely easier.

Most of the individual parts are not too expensive that if you screwed one up, it it not too bad the buy a replacement and start over. Obviously, the barrel, frame and slide are things to be very careful with. Fortunately, you have the frame and the slide can be purchased with all the machining work for sights complete.

The plunger tube is pain in the rear to install. Your frame should already have that installed if it was ever a working pistol.

Again, do the homework and research. Take your time and go slow. It can be a rewarding project.

If you are not good with hand tools and fitting parts, i would farm the work out.
 
maybe find a friend that has a complete 1911 and spend some time disassembling and reassembling it until you get the hang of the process.

this may help you decide if it is a process that you want to undertake.
 
Unless you are a machinist or a professional trained gun smith or gunsmith friend, then don't even attempt it.

Its stupid to try it and a money pit.

The facts are that trying to piece together a target or match grade gun will cost you 50-100% more than just buying a good match or target grade gun right from the start.

Simply go to brownells website add all the parts you want and need to build your match pistol, to the online checkout and you will be shocked at your total. Also that total will be with out the labor cost of fitting all the parts.

Your better off just buying a good quality match gun right from the start like and STI trojan for $950 and then adding a few custom bolt on touches you will like. Or a STI modular gun, SA range master, colt gold cup etc. or a kimber.

The other fact is that any 1911 pieced together is only going to be worth $350 $500 at resale, unless you can document that it was built by a noted professional gun smith. Other wise what you wind up with is what is known as a frankenstien gun, that no one wants but you.

Its like trying to turn a stock ford mustang into a mustang GT, if you can buy a new GT for $25K example, why pay $35k to build one from a stock model, and which will be worth more if you ever sell it. This is the simple logic you need to use.
 
Its like trying to turn a stock ford mustang into a mustang GT, if you can buy a new GT for $25K example, why pay $35k to build one from a stock model, and which will be worth more if you ever sell it. This is the simple logic you need to use.
Unfortunately this is true

I had a friend who wanted a Springfield Professional (~$2500), but didn't want to wait for them to build it (they are built in batches and you have to wait for the next batch). He bought a Springfield Loaded (~$1000) and sent it to their Custom shop to be built up to be just like the Professional. He was very happy when he got it back...much faster than he cold have gotten the Pro...even if it cost him a bit more.

What he wasn't happy with was that it was still worth what another Loaded was worth
 
In light of what your end goal is my advice would be throw "match" out the window. Buy the parts to make it a working gun then sell it to put towards a "match' gun.
I don't know for sure what you mean by inherit. If it truly is an inherited piece from a family member that has some sentimental value then I would offer the same advice, except that maybe I'd keep it after making it functional. No matter what, start with Kuhnhausen's manual.
 
Fusion offers some nice kits that have all the hard spots prefitted. But have them also fit a thumb safety, preferably a EB fat paddle style. Fitting the thumb safety is an fn nightmare.

But you have to be patient with Fusion. I think he fell on his head or something, often sending wrong parts etc.

Then just cut the paddle to fit your thumb, hammer in the sights of your choice. fit the GS, SLL, and trigger parts. Test shoot, then send out for refinish.

I use the EB sear jig for cutting sears. I actually use the guns own frame as a sear hammer jig to test fit. Just put the pins on the outside of frame. I never use a test block because my frma may, or may not be "in spec".

ar15.com has a nice scratch build thread in thier 1911 forum. But get some proper tools instead.
 
DST,

You've been given a lot of good advice. I learned the hard way, having built a couple of 1911's and currently close to finishing a .40 S&W Commander with a full length dust cover, ramped barrel, etc., etc.

I have made lots of mistakes; lots of mistakes. Take a look at what quality 1911 parts cost. Now figure on ruining some. You will. Everyone that builds has done it. I promise.
 
DST After getting the frame, and figuring out what it is. I would keep an eye out on gun broker and other web sites for a slide assembly.
They come up now and then. If you’re up for a project like this, it’s very rewarding.
Just beware; it’s very easy to sink more money into a frankencolt (in my case colt) than you will ever get out of it.
Steve
 
You could allways buy a 1911 that is close to what you want to build, then just simply upgrade and change the parts you don't like. In the end it stilll ends up being your build.

I'm in the middle of Kimber CDP and DW Valor builds.

The Valor is getting minor changes. I cut the thumb safety paddle to custom fit my thumb, shaved the grip safety for quicker disengagement, put in an extended Wilson mag release, and Sarges fullsize grips.

The Kimber is getting a complete transformation. I just need to beadblast it and refinish it and it's done. I did a ton of work to this 1911 and it's alot nicer, it was completely obsolete to my newer needs a year ago:
-Dawson .090 thin front FO sight
-Hienie plain rear
-Kimber grip safety
-EB mainspring housing
-EB pins, springs, plungers
-Series II FP safety delete
-EB thumb safety, custom cut to my thumb
-melted some edges on the frame, filed bottom of frame to melt to the new EB mainspring housing.
-trigger job on the stock parts, badly needed.
-Now I need to sand blast all the little nicks and scratches I just added.
-maybe I'll put Wilson ignition parts in, but I'll wait to see how nice I can refinish her 1st before spending more.
 
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