surface Preparation prior to new finish

[frgood]

This is a question of what to expect and look for when choosing someone to refinish an older pistol.

I recently purchased one of those older low priced CZ 83' that tend to show up in batches every once in a while. The components are in good shape and I am currently in the process of taking it completely down and checking all the parts. So far, so good.

However, as I look to the next step and consider the finish on the slide I'm finding areas of minute dimpling. I am guessing that it may be surface rust and will clean up no issue.
However, If I am recoating with something like Cerakote, will not these small dimples show through? It does not seem prudent to remove 99% if the outer surface to get a perfect smooth finish.

What is typical for those that restore older pistols? This is not an investment gun. It is something I want to put into use and regular circulation. But I would not mind trying to spiff it up a bit.

Thoughts on where to look, and read, to find out best how to restore found treasures?

 

[Jim K]

I think you need to do more research before deciding on a finish. The most obvious question is whether to bother. If the gun is to be a carry gun, unless it is in really bad shape, it might be best to just leave it alone. No matter what you do or how much you spend, the gun will start to wear again as soon as you start to carry it.

The term "restore" means to return the gun to its original condition and finish as closely as possible. There is not a lot of "in between" with a restoration; you either get and pay for a finish close to the original or you get something less. (You can't "restore" a Cerakote finish since that gun was originally blued.)

There is not much "half-a##" about a restoration or even a decent reblue. Most gunsmiths that do rebluing do a basic job, a high gloss blue because that is what most customers want.

I suggest talking to someone local who does rebluing and decide what to do based on the information you receive. I strongly suggest that you NOT use cold blue or some other "quick and dirty" refinish, though a good Cerakote job might work. But a worn finish is better than a bad reblue job.

Jim

 

[ulflyer]

Consider having it bead blasted and parkerized. Parked guns hold up well, can be had in med to dark gray as seen on most of the older US military guns, including the 1911's. I had a Norinco 1911 done once and it was really nice. It will stand the wear also.

 

[frgood]

What about surface preparation?

If there are light pock marks, from rust I assume, does that usually get buffed out? Or, do certain finishes 'smooth' minor irregularities?

 

[Mauser lover]

It will probably show through. I have not seen the gun, so I don't know for sure, but odds are that it will probably show through.

Are you set on the Cerakote? Personally, I don't really like it, and if I were doing it, would prefer to blue it (avoid cold blue, repeat, AVOID COLD BLUE!). However, it is your gun...

As mentioned above, if you are going to carry it, just oil it regularly, and leave the finish as it is. If you are going to make it look pretty, make it look pretty (all the way). Just my two cents, take it or leave it. I won't be offended.

Ultimately, you will need to make a decision, but I have not been impressed with the longevity of the Cerakote (or any other coating/paint, other than parkerization, which isn't all that pretty in my eyes). However... bluing isn't all that great at inhibiting rust, just marginal. So... have fun, and don't forget to shoot it, no matter what it looks like!

(out of the many options of "coatings", cerakote does at least beat the rattlecan paints. Your other options include baked enamel, or even powder coating. Comparing apples to apples [as much as possible] Cerakote does pretty well when put up against these other "coatings")

Edit: just thought of this, try bead blasting, even if you aren't going to parkerize it. It doesn't really damage anything, and it will give it that matte look, if you like that. Everything is a compromise, bluing is pretty, but not all that great at inhibiting rust, and can be expensive. Paint is cheap but flakes off. Cerakote looks okay, but it is somewhat expensive, and I have not been impressed terribly. Powdercoating looks odd on a gun. Plating flakes off and is complicated. Etcetera in an endless circle!

 

[Reloadron]

However, as I look to the next step and consider the finish on the slide I'm finding areas of minute dimpling. I am guessing that it may be surface rust and will clean up no issue.

I guess it depends on how we define "dimples". If there was rust and the rust was severe enough to cause pits most of the options can get expensive. Years ago I got a Colt Series 70 Government which for apparently quite some time laid on a carpet under a front seat of a car. The carpet got wet and one side of an otherwise really nice gun rusted with pits, bad pits. Since the gun was a pretty much give me I went ahead and had it parkerized with a black parkerizing. While it would never again be a beautiful blued 1911 the coarse parkerizing look did well at covering the pitting.

Ron

 

[BSA1]

I have a surplus CZ-82 (not the 83). However both guns are very similar in design.

The finish on the slide of my CZ is a paint type and in one area a sizable area has peeled off. The frame also shows smaller spots of the finish wearing to bare metal.

Personally I think Ceracoat is the near ideal finish for this gun. Ceracoat is thick and will cover minor imperfections well. Parkerizing is another good choice if you like that type of finish.

Bluing and thin finishes such as hard chrome will easily show pitting , uneven areas, rounded edges and lettering if not prepped by someone that has the skill to do it right.

The best thing about Ceracoat is the wide range of colors available. My CZ is on the Ceracoat to do list. Graphite Black slide and Burnt Bronze frame looks really sharp.

I also am considering Ceracoating the upper and lower receiver on a future AR build just to break out of the "black rifle" look.