SW 1917 trigger stud

[KY DAN]

So I am trying to remove it from the frame. I made a spanner wrench to fit the slots and using the jack screw method stripped the wrench out. The stud is broken so I have no leverage there. I have tried drilling the stud and using a easy out with heat around area and that has won me two broken easy outs. Now its just a mess I did it and now I must fix it or pay someone with more experience to fix it. So my options are as follows

* Use extra side plate and indicate hole that supports the pin and drill it on mill or drill press and then use it as a guide to drill the hole in frame. The drill will follow existing hole which is a bad thing so I am thinking about filling the hole I made with JB WELD just to create a solid surface to drill with and then use a end mill of appropriate size to cut the recess for hat of the stud.

* Or could someone recommend a smith that can do this kind of work. I really want to build this 1917 and would be willing to pay to get it there. Thanks

 

[GooseGestapo]

Not cheap, but either Hamilton Bowen, or Turnbull Restorations might help.
Also, check with David Sams (Cartersville, Va). He might be willing to help.

 

[BBBBill]

No drill press has the quality bearings to allow the level of precision needed for that. Far too much run out. No drill bits cut true enough for that either. Any drilling/milling must be done on a mill with the appropriate end mill for any chance of success. I've only had to change a couple studs over the years. I did not have much trouble pressing the broken ones out. Are you sure you are pressing only the end of the stud and not getting onto the frame?

 

[KY DAN]

BBBBill the studs for the 1917 both commercial and military are screwed into the frame. At this point my goal is to fill the hole I made with JB weld and drill and tap for a 10-32 screw and make a new stud out of A2 tool steel.

No drill press has the quality bearings to allow the level of precision needed for that. Far too much run out. No drill bits cut true enough for that either. Any drilling/milling must be done on a mill with the appropriate end mill for any chance of success. I've only had to change a couple studs over the years. I did not have much trouble pressing the broken ones out. Are you sure you are pressing only the end of the stud and not getting onto the frame?

 

[StrawHat]

Filling a hole with epoxy is not going to help you much for redrilling.

Post a photo of the problem. Might be a workable solution.

Kevin

 

[Machine Shop Dude]

Ok I do not know the thead size for the trigger stud I understand the concept going on here. A HSS drill and any reamer for that matter will follow an ecisting hole which in this case is a no no. Also a end mill is not a drill its a cutter, which will go way over size every time I had a hard time in trade school believing this, one A$$ chewing latter I believed it in the first shop I worked. If a 10-32 is larger than the existing thread stud I think filling the hole with JB weld, finding center and center drilling and the drilling for the approximate tap drill sixe will get you where you need to be with out a drill bit wondering from the location the stud needs to be. My opinion only someone else's may be better and more accuarate. Hope to see a follow up.