swapping components question

[Lovesbeer99]

So I read the speer manual and it clearly states that you should not just swap bullets or components which leads me to...

If it shows that the test loads were with federal brass and I have winchester, can I use my brass or should I get some federal brass? Also I see in many catelogs bullet options for companies like magtech, winchester, federal, but my speer manual only lists speer bullets. How do i get loading recipies for these other components?

I'm guessing that I can swap componets for similar parts, (115 grain bullet for 115 grain bullet, 130 grain bullet for 130 grain bullet, and never ever mismatch them), and then just start at the minimum load and slowly work my way toward the maximum (if I need to get that high). But I don't want to take any chances. What's the scoop here?

Thanks.
Lovesbeer99

 

[Walkalong]

I'm guessing that I can swap componets for similar parts, (115 grain bullet for 115 grain bullet, 130 grain bullet for 130 grain bullet, and never ever mismatch them), and then just start at the minimum load and slowly work my way toward the maximum

Yes, as long as you don't put a heavier bullet in place of a lighter one and start in the middle of the data and work up, you will be just fine.

 

[Grumulkin]

The change in any cartridge component or a firearm the cartridge is used in can change the pressure generated for various reasons. If you are loading at maximum loads, more pressure than you were expecting could get you into trouble. That all said, I've found the following to be generally true:

1. You can interchange bullets of equal weights provided the construction is similar. For instance, I would interchange .308 caliber Nosler, Sierra and Hornady 168 grain BTHP bullets without a second thought. If you were using a 168 grain cast bullet, then pressure would be lower. If you were using a solid bullet with a longer bearing surface, then the pressure could be higher.

2. In medium to high volume cases, interchangeing primers; even magnum for regular primers generally doesn't change the pressure significantly. In a small case like a 44 Remington Magnum and smaller, changing between magnum and regular primers can make significant pressure differences.

3. Military cases in the 308 Winchester and 30/06 Springfield sizes take about 1 to 1.5 granis less powder than other common cases like Remington, Winchester, Federal, etc. Although it's unlikely you would run into pressure problems interchanging commonly available commercial cases, I've found that for most consistent accuracy, you should pick a case brand and stick with it.

4. Cases should not be allowed to be longer than the maximum specified length because if too long, dangerous high pressure can occur.

5. If bullets are seated too far out, they can contact the lands which can elevate pressure. Most bullets should, if possible, be seated so they almost contact the lands. Barnes bullets should be seated a bit further off the lands.

6. Tight chambers in a firearm will tend to increase pressure with a given load. Some barrels are of slightly different diameter than another and can cause pressure differences; this would commonly occur in a worn vs new barrel. Freebore is another significant variable. Weatherby rifles are known for generous freebore and will thus generate lower pressures with a different load.

 

[Steve C]

The thing to memember is that reloading manuals are mainly guides. Use data with the same bullet weight and type (ie. jacketed or lead) but in all cases use a START load OR a 10% reduction off the maximum load and work up if you want more velocity or to develop accuracy. Do not exceed published maximum loads. Using a Start load takes into account the issue of variations in the components. Loads are suposed to be developed not cook booked from a recepie.

 

[saands]

One more thing to remember when switching bullets of equal weight is that it is the seating depth, NOT the overall length that is important from a chamber pressure standpoint. So ... a 168gr JHP-BT probably shouldn't be seated to the same C.O.A.L. as a 168gr FMJ-BT as the latter will be a shorter bullet than the former and you will end up seating the JHP deeper to make up for the missing lead in that HP. Again ... starting at minimum and working up is the key.

Saands

 

[4fingermick]

The Lyman manual will give you a more open approach. A bullet maker's manual will only have their bullets and a powder manafacturer will only feature their powder, etc. Always back off a bit and work back up. The most important thing I find is comparing the bullet shapes and where they sit in relation to the lands. A long streamlined bullet may clear the lands easily, but a round nose made to the same length may actually engage in the lands, raising pressure.

I always lightly seat a flat based bullet backwards in an empty case and then close the bolt on it slowly, so that the bullet stops on the lands and is seated in the neck of the case. This then gives you a quick eyeball gauge when comparing seated bullets, you can tell straight away if it is going to be close to the lands, etc.

If I am going to use two bullet weights in a given rifle, I always work out the load for the heaviest bullet first. When I have got this right, that load will be a safe load for the lighter bullet and you can work up from there, saving lots of time.

Collect as many of those free handouts from Winchester, Alliant, etc from the gunshops.

Be careful of using old manuals, because the powders change sometimes over the years. 2400 is a good example of this, you don't use as much now. Always compare them to the new ones.

Mick

 

[Walkalong]

In my reloading notes I log both the bullet diameter and length. I can use that and O.A.L. to compute the difference one bullet from another is down in the case.

 

[KHawk]

You are receiving excellent advice from several experienced reloaders. The most important step is: Start with a 10% reduced powder charge based on the maximum load. Then take all your spent cases and check for signs of high pressure. 1) Split cases. 2) Base seperation. 3) Deformed primer. 4) Any primer appearance that is not "normal". Then gradually build up your charge to fit your weapon. I have found that most of mine are the most accurate at about 3% below the max. load.

 

[Lovesbeer99]

Thanks for all your help. I've ordered the lyman book for handgun loads and will read it as soon as I get it. I plan to start with handgun loads so it seamed to make sense. As a matter of safety, and good sense, I'll start loading with the speer data and bullets, once I get confortable, I'll switch up to the less expensive bulk components.

Shoot Safe -

Lovesbeer99 -

 

[wheezengeezer]

i have even had the experience of a starting load having excess pressure,from a published load manual.if the manual does not show pressure a bit of extra caution may be in order.remember,the same exact components in a different chamber can require a starting load as well.