Taurus .45 Snubby Shakedown Cruise

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Mossyrock

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I recently purchased a model 455 .45 ACP stainless snubby that is proving to be kind of interesting. First off, it has a 2" UN-ported barrel. I can't recall seeing a non-ported .45 ACP Taurus snubby before. Out of the box, the action was pretty rough and heavy. Being someone who can't leave well enough alone, I tore it down and polished those areas that looked like they would benefit, lubed it well and dry fired it about 500 times (using snap caps). While the action is still kind of heavy, it smoothed up a great deal. I also contoured the edges of the trigger and polished the face to a mirror finish which made the trigger much more comfortable to deal with.

My first trip to the range was a mixed bag of results. First off, the clips that come with the Taurus are absolute crap. I swear that they are made with recycled gum wrappers or something. They are VERY flexible and will bend out of shape if you look at them wrong. There is an alternative, however.... www.moonclips.com TK Customs offers 5-round .45 ACP full-moon slips made for the Taurus that are VERY well made. The web site says the cylinder must be modified to use the clips. NOT TRUE. I contacted TK Customs to verify and they told me the website is incorrect; they work just fine right out of the package.

Anyway, back on track....Like I said, my first trip to the range was a mixed bag of results. With several brands of ammo, case heads were dragging on the recoil shield, making DA shooting very difficult. This was a problem with or without clips. (Yes, you can shoot .45 ACP in this revolver without clips; it headspaces off of the case mouth. Just don't expect the cases to easily extract.) On the other hand, accuracy was very good for a snubby, going into 2" or so at 25 feet. It even shot to point of aim (more on this later).

When I got home, I got out the wet/dry paper and polished the recoil shield to a mirror finish, starting out with 800 grit and moving to 1500 grit. The dragging problem seems to be solved. I also noticed the forcing cone of the barrel wasn't cut square and it was dragging on the cylinder face a bit, so I cleaned that up.

Before my second range outing, I swapped the factory Ribber grips for some rubber Hogues. I like the Hogues, but the Ribbers handle recoil better. Six of one, a half dozen of the other. I will keep the Hogues on for now, but I am thinking about carving a set of grips out of a piece of walnut that is currently sitting on my bench. My plan for the end-result is something akin to Spegel boot grips. We'll see if I can pull this off.... I also installed a Wolff spring kit, hoping to improve the trigger pull a bit.

My second trip to the range was a bit different than the first. The case-head dragging problem being solved greatly improved the DA pull and made the range session much more enjoyable. The Wolff spring kit, while improving the feel of the trigger, resulted in a 25% misfire rate. Aside from the misfire rate, things were going pretty well until I noticed that my groups were drifting right..... Yup...the barrel was unscrewing itself from the frame under recoil torque! So much for THAT range session!

When I got home, I got out the frame wrench, unscrewed the barrel, degreased it, applied some red Lok-Tite and reinstalled it. I suspect this will solve the problem. I also replaced the Wolff spring with the factory mainspring. So, why am I going to all of this trouble with what may be a problem child? Well, don't tell the S&Ws in my safe, but I LIKE this little beast! Think about it...it fills a unique niche. It is compact, powerful, accurate, fast to reload and reasonably comfortable to shoot. I don't know that it will ever replace my Lightweight OACP as my primary carry gun, but, after I get all of the bugs worked out, I will carry it occasionally. You have to admit...there is just SOMETHING about a little, dinky revolver with a BIG hole!
 
Where did you get the snubby? I recently got a 6.5" version from CDNN and they had 4" versions also. I didn't even think Taurus had made a snubby of the 455.
 
I've got the .41 Mag. version of your revolver (s/s, 2 1/2" ported barrel) and, like you, I think it fills a kind of unique niche. I like the 1/2" longer barrel, still deciding on whether the ports are an advantage or disadvantage (they do help with recoil recovery but boy are they loud) and rue the fact that, other than Maxfires (which take a little "learnin' " to be proficient with) there are no speedloaders available.

Still, it's a lot of controllable power in a relatively small package.
 
I got it off of Gunbroker. Two weeks ago, there were three or four of them listed. Now, not a single one. Anyway, it looks like any other 2" fixed sight big-bore Taurus snubby.
 
Mossy, it sounds like you know a thing or two about gunsmithing. Is using red Loctite a good way to "secure" a barrel on a revolver? I'm asking because I used that trick on a Ruger Security Six swap. The new barell lined up well and the gap came out at .006 but it didn't require as much torque to set as I would have liked. So I used red Loctite during assembly but I've been wondering since then if it was a good idea or not?

Sorry for the hijack and thanks for the write up, the Taurus 455 is an interesting gun. I've been wondering about getting one for a while...
 
Red LocTite is some pretty serious stuff. Here's what the Brownell's catalog has to say about it:

High Strength RED #271 THREADLOCKER - For worn, extra-loose screws and pins that just won’t stay put with #242 Threadlocker. Also very good for restoring fit to worn parts and mounting bearings on shafts. Prevents fretting, corrosion. Maximum fill is .015", sets to 2600 psi. High strength -disassemble with heavy duty tools.


Let's put it this way...if you use this stuff, you had better PRAY that you never have to take it apart. It will involve heat, much cussing, a large vice and a big, honkin' wrench. :cuss: Be sure to degrease the parts before application.
 
Some years ago I had a problem with the rear shocks on my Suzuki 400 dirt bike loosening. I ignorantly used the red 271 LocTite on them. A year or so later, when I tried to remove them, I twisted the studs completely off. Definitely not "service-removable" without heat.
 
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