Tell Me About Ruger's GP-100...

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nero45acp

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I'm toying with the idea of getting a Ruger GP-100 4" .357 Magnum revolver and I'd appreciate some info/input/opinions on this revolver.

*First, how does the size (specifically, the trigger reach) of the GP100 compare with a S&W K-frame?

*How would you'll rate this revolver in terms of trigger quality, reliability, and accuracy?

*Is the blued version all steel, or does it have an alloy frame (like the blued Blackhawks)?

*Finally, other than Hogue or Badger Custom Grips, does anyone else make aftermarket wood grips for the GP-100?

Thanks


nero
 
The GP100 is larger than a K frame, and is comparable in size and weight to an L frame gun.

Reliability and accuracy are usually excellent. The trigger on GP100s are not usually all that great out of the box, but will smooth out with use and a good smith can work wonders with them.

The blued models have steel frames.

I think there are a couple of other sources for wood grips, but I would have to search for them -- and you can do that. :D
 
Other grip sources are:

Herrett's http://www.herrett-stocks.com/

Eagle http://www.eaglegrips.com/

Nill Griffe http://www.nill-griffe.com/

At one time Ruger made a wood grip similar in configuration to the standard rubber stock. Excaliber may have made a grip for the GP. It is similar in shape to the Badgers.

Trigger reach is comparable to the K frame. As it uses a frame stud it can be more
readily adjusted, if need be, also. The GP can be tuned quite well. Apex Tactical
(Randy Lee) works on them. His site is at:

http://www.apextactical.com/
 
Ruger triggers have springs from hell in 'em. A spring kit can do wonders for effort and it will smooth out on its own.

Wood grips, Hogue would be my choice. www.ajaxgrips.com also, but they might just offer the inserts.

GP100s are much stronger than a K frame, stronger than an L frame, but heavy as hell to carry. I am a K frame kinda guy, myself. I've owned a 19, have a 10, and currently have Taurus' K frame version, a couple of M66s. They're lighter, easier to carry, just as accurate or more, and strong enough if you don't feed 'em a steady diet of hot stuff. The GP100 can handle a lot more pounding of hot loads, I admit. But, I have a Blackhawk for that, even stronger than a GP100.

If you don't have to carry 'em all day, concealed or not, the GP100 is superior to any K frame IMHO. I just want my medium frame .357 to be light on the hip. I have cracked the dreaded flat spot on a K frame's forcing cone before. It can happen. But, the gun has a new barrel and is running fine.
 
I'm glad to find this thread. I was just going to ask the same question. I'm looking at the GP-100 in stainless and making a few comparisons between other makes of revolvers. I looked at my brother in laws GP-100 yesterday. His is nice but has had a trigger job. I was thinking about a S&W too.
 
*First, how does the size (specifically, the trigger reach) of the GP100 compare with a S&W K-frame?

Very similar in size in this regard. Frame size is comparable to an L-Frame though.

*How would you'll rate this revolver in terms of trigger quality, reliability, and accuracy?

The trigger can be 'smithed, reliability is excellent and the gun is very accurate.

*Is the blued version all steel, or does it have an alloy frame (like the blued Blackhawks)?
Click to expand...

All steel :)

I'm slowly selling my S&W's that are new and have the "Hillary Hole" and replacing them with Rugers.

They're not bad guns, and can be 'smithed up good. :) I find the Rugers to be the strongest out there and carry a 3" GP100 frequently off duty.

BikerRN
 
Like others have said, they're tough guns.

With a little attention (spring kit, trigger smooth) they can be GREAT tough guns.

Cosmetically speaking, some of them have a rough cylinder stop pawl (the little nub that sticks out of the bottom of the frame and locks the cylinder in place). If rough, they can create an unsightly drag line. Before ever firing the gun (including dry) you can avoid this by disassembling the gun and smoothing/polishing the surface of the pawl where it rides on the cylinder. Don't get carried away or you will be sending it back to Ruger for repair... just smooth and polish, don't change any dimensions or geometry. I have done this to mine and to a friend's, and we have avoided the drag line. Oh, you will still eventually get a trace of a drag line, that's unavoidable, but it won't look like it was turned on a lathe either.

I had my sa trigger pull lightened to 3 lbs and WOW it is a joy to shoot. Be careful though if sending a "tuned up" gun back to Ruger - they will replace any altered parts with factory spec before shipping it back to you - liability reasons.
 
Thanks to all for the helpful/informative replies.

I'm going to a local gun show this weekend so hopefully I'll have an opportunity to handle one.

From what I see at Ruger's website and a few auctions on GB, Ruger is equipping their current GP100s with ugly (IMHO) Hogue(?) rubber grips. Aesthetically, I much prefer the grips with their older grips with the wood inserts.

Again, thanks.


nero
 
For what it's worth, Hogue now offers two different rubber grips for the GP100. The newer version is very similar to the X-frame grip they supply to S&W.
 
The GP100 also has one more interesting aspect: it tends to spit bullets fast for a given barrel length.

Check Buffalo Bore's test data for their hot 357 loads and this trend will be clear. The newest S&Ws almost catch up in this regard...

http://www.buffalobore.com/ammunition/default.htm#357

As an aside: only the Blackhawk grip frame is alloy - the main "cylinder frame" is steel. The GP100 doesn't really have a grip frame in there, it's more like a "grip stub" that the grip of your choice mounts to. Being on the small side, that stub is all steel. We're not getting reports of breakage...in fact, the Ruger SuperRedhawk flinging 454Casull downrange has the same stub and takes all the same grips as the GP100, and THAT isn't breaking, so the GP100 grip stud will hold up fine.

Because the grip "frame" is just a stud, you can take wood grips and re-shape them to whatever you want, reducing trigger reach if you've got short fingers.
 
"Because the grip "frame" is just a stud, you can take wood grips and re-shape them to whatever you want, reducing trigger reach if you've got short fingers."

Thanks, Jim. I do have short fingers and that's exactly why I was asking about the GP100's trigger reach. Colt's D-frame and S&W's K-frame fit me just fine, anything bigger/longer is a bit of a stretch for my stubby fingers.


nero
 
About the Trigger Reach:

I use the Compact Ruger Stocks with wood inserts. The larger Stocks feel more like an N-Frame S&W to me. Not to worry, the Stocks on all GP100's are interchangeable.

The problem is finding them. The company that made them for Ruger is no longer in business I'm sorry to say. I think they made the best Revolver Stock out there for a Revolver and I like Ruger's Grip Stub idea compared to S&W's different Frame sizes.

My 3" and 4" GP100's both wear the Compact Stocks. Often you can find them "in the back" or in the "parts bin" at your local Mom and Pop Gunstore. Also check out www.Rugerforum.net sometimes a member is selling his or her Stocks. They usually go for around $30.

BikerRN
 
Yeah, the Ruger fixed-sight GP100s used to come with a small grip similar to (but not cross-compatible with) the SP101 grip - more of a "round butt". The adjustable-sight GPs came with a bigger grip.

Both were rubber with wood (or other materials on special order) "side inserts".

Both types were made by Lett, which is now out of business.

For very small hands though, the best option is to start with a decent wood grip on the small side (Eagle "Secret Service" would be a top choice but there's others) and then belt-sand the backstrap as desired (or for that matter, if needed).
 
While the Hogue Monogrip on my new GP100 fits my hand well, the back of it sticks out into my palm a liitle too much, and makes a sore spot in my palm after a while. I just ordered the Tamer grip, which is similar, but without the lump, and it also has a more padded part at the top of the back, to help absorb recoil.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=231159

I really like this gun, it is very accurate, and a real pleasure to shoot. I have a spring kit on order also, and a copy of the IBOK, it should be even better after lighter springs and some smoothing of the inner works.

In fact, I am seriously looking at the spurless SP101 as a CCW little brother for my GP100.
 
In fact, I am seriously looking at the spurless SP101 as a CCW little brother for my GP100.
Click to expand...

I just took the SP101 I traded for yesterday to my local 'smith to give it his D.A.O. "Carry Treatment". The spurless SP101 is a great gun and if my "carry gun" has a Hammer Spur I have it "bobbed" and made in to a Double Action Only. :)

Take care and stay safe.

BikerRN
 
bruss01, I sure am not trying to be condesending at all, but the pawl is another name for the hand. This is the part which rotates the cylinder. The part you speak of is the cylinder latch. Regards.
 
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I cannot say enough great things about my GP100. It is a stainless 4" model with the original wood insert rubber grips and adjustable sights. My dad bough this gun almost 20 years ago and I traded him for it and took possession about 3 years ago. Best decision I ever made (the trade was for a Beretta 9000s .40 cal, BTW). The stainless GP100 with a 3" or 4" barrel and the original grips is IMO the best looking double-action revolver of all time. Mine has had thousands of rounds of both .357 and .38 special through it without a single problem. Great gun, you cannot go wrong with a Ruger revolver.
 
Too bad they switched to Hogues. Their original grip was one of their stronger points with me. Hogues are too thin, bruise the palm, and the finger grooves.....are finger grooves. Don't like them at all. Plus, the Hogues are the ugliest grips ever made.

JMHO of course.
 
Awesome Guns

Well, my first day here, my first post. Glad I can start with talking about a gun I love. I have a 6" stainless.

Hogue grips (don't look as nice as the factory grips. I am ok with the factory grips, the Hogues are thinner for my wife) spring kit, night sights.

I have probably 2k rounds thru it. Dead on tack driver. Always a solid feel. In my opinion, one of the best revolvers for the money (or more). Indestructible.
Just a pleasure to shoot.
My GP100
 
Small hands = no problem

I have small hands due to birth defects. I can shoot the GP100 pretty well. OK...my DA work is a bit rough, but I'm enjoying the practice. I can reach it; it's developing trigger-finger strength and a straight-back trigger pull...repetitve muscle movement stuff. I 99.99% guarantee you'll be just fine shooting it SA. Try DA and see how it goes.

You can't wreck a Ruger. Dry fire the heck outta it. It'll actually smooth the action for you. Oh, and before you start, break it down and lube it. A little oil makes a big difference :banghead: trust me. :eek:

I have a 6" blue. While the stainless would have been nice, I couldn't see myself plunking down almost $100 extra. The blue serves me just fine. I shoot my Ruger very well compared to my Smith MP9...almost makes me wish I would have not bought it, but spent the $$ on another revolver instead. Nice thing is you can load mild .38s to hot .357s for almost any application. I also have the SP101. Fits my small hands even better, but the bigger GP-100 is a better range/target/hunting gun IMHO.

Buy it...you won't regret it!

Q
 
About a year ago I saw a 5" model, has anyone seen this before? Anyone have pics?
 
I've had my 4" blued GP since they first came to Canada in the early 80's. Shot bullseye with it for eons. Quit using a 4" S&W M19 with a trigger job when I got the GP. Never did find any 'K' frame grips that fit my hand right.
My hands are wide but short. Need a half inch more trigger finger and the factory is closed. The GP is the only revolver I've ever had that did not need a change of grips to fit my hand perfectly.
All the internal parts are SS. Did the trigger job exactly the way a .45 trigger is done. If I was doing it now, I'd polish all the internal parts and change the springs. Wolf sells 'em for a reasonable price.
Like Jim says, the SuperRedhawk has exactly the same grip. It's the biggest revolver I've ever tried on for size and it fit my hand perfectly too.
 
That was a special run. Wish it was regular catalog. I've been looking for one for years.
 
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