The 642 club

[wheel]

Hey, I'm a big S&W fan and own several. But unless you MUST use pocket carry, why would anyone want a 12oz gun and the punishing recoil and slow recovery time?

A steel model 60 or a subcomact Glock, something like 20oz minimum, makes much more sense. And in the case of the Glock a LOT more sense - double the capacity, extremely reliable.

Not trying to hijack the thread or anything. I just don't understand how so many people tend to dismiss such harsh recoil as "part of the game". There are better solutions. And using marginal .38 or .38+p ammo is not one of them.

 

[308win]

I am sure that more than one of use also carry handguns other than the S&W snubbie. We aren't just one trick ponies you know.

 

[Guntalk]

>> Magnesium will burn, how is that going to work?<<

Kinda gives a new meaning to "throw down" gun.

 

[norfdet893]

Hey, I'm a big S&W fan and own several. But unless you MUST use pocket carry, why would anyone want a 12oz gun and the punishing recoil and slow recovery time?

A steel model 60 or a subcomact Glock, something like 20oz minimum, makes much more sense. And in the case of the Glock a LOT more sense - double the capacity, extremely reliable.

Not trying to hijack the thread or anything. I just don't understand how so many people tend to dismiss such harsh recoil as "part of the game". There are better solutions. And using marginal .38 or .38+p ammo is not one of them.

Well being a former carrier of a Glock 26 and 27, I can attest to the fact that the j-frame is easier to carry thus it will be with me ALL the time. The Glock 26/27 while small is not as compact or as light as a j-frame. The width of the Glock and the distance from the backstrap to the trigger is the same on all 3 models. Granted the 26/27 carry more ammo but if you can conceal at 26/27 you could probably also carry a 19 or a 23.

Where I live the summers are HOT and HUMID, with the average day in the mid to upper 90's with close to 100% humidity. The j-frame is much more easily carried than my Glock's ever were and reloads (speed strip vs a magazine) are also easier to conceal and carry.

I am not convinced that +p ammo out of a Glock 26 is any better a performer than a 38 special +p from a j-frame (YMMV). Also as a BUG my j-frame is lighter and easier to conceal than my Glock was.

Now I agree that everyones taste are different but the simplicity of operation of the j-frame beats a semi-auto any day. You can't fire a semi-auto from a pocket nor are most semi-autos any good when they come into "contact distance" with a bad guy. The revolver reigns in these areas, not to mention the second strike capiability.

Where scandium/titanium are concerned, I too fail to understand why anyone would want to put themself through such torture. I previously owned a 340PD and the +p 38 special was bad, the mangum was downright painful. I believe in controllability and shot placement over caliber size. I would (and do) rather have the 38 that I can control and get rounds on target over being able to boast that I carry a .357.

Personally I prefer the airweight j-frames as they seem to have the best balance between the airlite and the all steel.

just a rant.

 

[AStone]

Magnesium will burn, how is that going to work?

It's the newest innovation in survival gear. You got your lightweight survival BUG, and if your matches get wet, or you run out, just scrape your knife down the barrel of your magnesium gun using it like a firestarter.

 

[jad0110]

norfdet893,

+1 on everything you said!

I did a post a few pages ago on something similar. Basically, though the baby Glock and the J Frame share nearly the same dimensions, the Glock is blocky all over and the J Frame revolver is only widest at the cylinder.

For example, ignoring weight differences, imagine trying to conceal a brick and a bananna of the exact same L X W X H. I think for most people, a similarly sized revolver will be easier to conceal than a semi auto.

According to the numbers alone, it would appear that the 9mm is, on average, the more potent round. Numbers don't tell all however. A lot of people underestimate the stopping power of the 38+P cartridge. This probably has a lot to do with the fact that the 38 Special is offered in a huge array of choices. Some of those choices, like light shooting target wadcutter loads just breaking 500 fps, are probably poor SD choices. However, many 38 +Ps, including the 158 grain LSWCHP have a stellar real-world track record. Of course I am not knocking the 9mm either, good shot placement with either should get the job done.

Edited to add: I myself don't find the recoil of the middle of the road airweight to be bad at all. And my follow up shots are reasonably quick and accurate, more so than my XD9. I've also fired a compact Taurus about the size and weight of a baby Glock and found muzzle flip to be excessive and difficult to control.

Lastly, most encounters don't even involve any shots fired, and those that do, rarely do they exceed 4 shots fired. The capacity of the Glock is certainly nice, and you should always carry what you are comfortable with.

For me, that is a S&W 642.

 

[Wesson Smith]

But unless you MUST use pocket carry, why would anyone want a 12oz gun and the punishing recoil and slow recovery time?

I don't find the recoil on the 642 "punishing" at all. Recovery? Practice. My current carry weapon is an XD-9 sub-compact as well. I qualified with it, and am partial to it to this day. I'd love to carry my Glock 30 for stopping power, but it just ain't practical. The XD is not all that much better, concealment-wise. I tend not to cotton to baggy clothing, so I guess my options are limited. In any event, I'm leaning towards re-qualifying with my 642 for potential carry situations.

 

[norfdet893]

I think that we would all agree that a j-frame beats the hell out of the .380 that I was carrying.

 

[srv656s]

I got my 642 a week ago now... Overall I've been pretty happy and a little dissapointed too. I spent a lot of time going back and forth between the 642 and something smaller like a Kel-Tec. Finally I settled on the 642 mainly because I was most interested in reliability. Imagine my dissapointment when the revolver's trigger got stuck to the rear every once in a while. I was pretty let down. I wasn't sure whether it was normal, or something I was doing, and after taking it apart I couldn't figure out what the deal was. I took it back to the gunshop I bought it from and the gunsmith tinkered with it for a while. He said that the rebound slide was rubbing on something else and that was causing it to stick every once in a while. I've dry fired it about 500 times since then and it hasn't happened again, but it still has me a bit worried. He also soaked the internals in lubricant. There's lube leaking out of every seam.

I haven't shot the gun yet, or carried it. Overall I'm happy with it and think it's light, handy and will work well for what I want it to, but now I'm concerned it's not 100% reliable.

Shawn

 

[308win]

Send it back to S&W they will take care of it. Get an RA so they pay the shipping both ways.

 

[Wesson Smith]

He also soaked the internals in lubricant. There's lube leaking out of every seam.

I agree with 308win. Send it back. I'd be a little concerned with the quote of yours I posted here, as the gun is no longer in the condition in which you purchased it. But I'm sure S&W will take care of you. Man, there's nothin' worse than not being 100% satisfied with a much anticipated firearm purchase, is there? It does happen, tho. Good luck!

 

[srv656s]

I sent an email tonight, I'll update this thread with their response.

Shawn

 

[norfdet893]

I spent a lot of time going back and forth between the 642 and something smaller like a Kel-Tec.

That is similiar to the delima that I had except that I was already carrying a 2G P3AT. Becasue of recent events locally, I wanted something that was still as easily carried but with more knockdown power, which is why I swithced back to carrying my pre-lock 638. Tactically I lost 2 rounds but I think I made it up in a much better round (.380 vs 38 +p). I like my Kel-Tec and it definately does fill a niche but for the time being the 38 special is about as small a defensive caliber as I want.

 

[BarneyFife]

Hi.

I just joined THR last night, but I have had a 642-2 for a year or two now. I love that little gun. I am really, really excited, I just ordered two speedloaders and a speedloader case for it.

 

[fiVe]

It is a high honor to welcome BarneyFife to the club. Welcome, Barn.

 

[V-fib]

Magnesium will burn, how is that going to work?

It's the newest innovation in survival gear. You got your lightweight survival BUG, and if your matches get wet, or you run out, just scrape your knife down the barrel of your magnesium gun using it like a firestarter.

Took the words right out of my mouth!

 

[srv656s]

I sent an email tonight, I'll update this thread with their response.

I spoke with Lenny in customer service and they are going to send me a UPS overnight prepaid shipping label, which I will use to ship the handgun to them. They will service it and return it to me.

Again, I'll update once I get it back.

Shawn

 

[sdl]

Well it's official. I just picked up my 642 today. This is my second time around with a 642. My first was the non dash version about 15 years ago. I think I liked the old finish better, but maybe I'll come around to the matte finish.

As someone who carried a service revolver for many years, I don't find the trigger pull too bad. Yes, it is heavy, but I think it will lighten up after alot of dry firing and range time.

My biggest problem is my long fingers. My trigger finger is not on the first pad, but at the first joint of my finger. When I squeeze the trigger, my pad pinches against the frame and I know I'll have a bandaid there after 5 shots .

For fiVe and magnumcarry. As magnumcarry mentioned before, mine does have a 2 stage trigger. Now if I make sure I'm using the pad of my finger, I don't feel the second "click" as I pull right through it. But if I put my finger on the trigger where it wants to go (first joint), as I reach the end of the trigger squeeze, my finger pad starts to push against the rear of the trigger guard/frame. At that point, if you hold the trigger and apply pressure very very slowly, you'll hear the click just before the hammer falls. You will pinch your finger, but maybe you will feel what magnumcarry and I feel.

Well, anyway, I'm glad to be here and read all the great posts! And thanks to fiVe for starting this.

 

[fiVe]

I've slowly and very slowly dry-fired mine several times, now I'll try to describe how my trigger pulls......

[o] Before any pressure is applied to the trigger, I look between the bottom of the cylinder and the frame and see the tab/stop is fully up in the cylinder slot that is aligned at the bottom.

[o] As I begin pressure on the trigger, the tab/stop drops down into the frame and the cylinder begins to rotate.

[o] When the tip of the trigger gets even the the "e" in "Airweight", the tab/stop reappears, and you hear a click as it touches the cylinder.

[o] Continue with pressure to the trigger and the cylinder continues to turn.

[o] The next click I hear is a loud "snap" as the hammer/striker falls.

All of the above is done very slowly.

If I increase the speed of the trigger-pull, I hear a second click immediately (and I mean VERY immediately) just before the "snap" of hammer-fall, BUT I only hear this 2nd click on every other pull (that is on the 1st pull, I hear the 2nd click--on the 2nd pull, I don't hear the click--on the 3rd pull, I do--on the 4th, I don't, etc.)

I'm no gunsmith, but I think the trigger is much easier and smoother now. (I am liberal with the dry-firing).

Everyone: how does your trigger compare to mine?

R/fiVe

 

[Rez]

Thunderwear User

This is for Rez and any other "SmartCarry" and Thunderwear users...when you carry your J frame in that type holster and you draw from it, do you find the back of the cylinder 'grabbing' the front of the pocket material? I have and it's very disconcerting to pull the holster out of your pants with the gun! Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem.

Hey sorry to take so long to get back here and reply

I love that thunderwear carry
I wear really tight blue jeans boot cut (no ankle holster possible) and I tuck
in my shirts...so no uncle mic's clip-on......
and I am in Florida so no over coat or sweaters..

The 642 is so smooth with it's concealed hammer I find no snagging whatsoever
when drawing from my Thunderwear....

Like I said in my original post...
I have to go in late at night to pick up deposit bags..
lots of thug/gangbanger types looking me up and down
sitting at a counter on a counter rotating stool in front
of the 'witching hour crowd' and making night deposits
in the bad part of town in badly lit ATM night drops...

I could not feel safer.....that thing is right there
accessible and completely invisible as far as they are
concerned....

Of course I always take my left hand (I'm right handed)
and pull the front of my jeans away from my body sort
of subconsciously to give that cylinder room for clearance
so I can imagine what you are talking about.

Rez

 

[sdl]

fiVe,

Thanks for the great description of what your trigger does. Because of it, I think I've solved the mystery.

Your description is dead on with what mine does with one exception. The second click I hear (and now see) is the cylinder tab locking into the next ident on the cylinder. I wonder when that occurs on yours and other peoples weapons?

 

[fiVe]

sdl: It appears that cylinder lock-up occurs just nanoseconds before hammer-fall. At that point, the cylinder tab has inserted into the next cylinder indent. I guess this explains the marks on the cylinder between the indents. The 2nd click I hear is obviously the cylinder tab at lock-up (like yours). I'm curious why I don't hear it every time, but everything works fine.

The 642 is still the best carry piece for me. I like it better every day.

R/fiVe

 

[RonJ]

OK, 642 owners, I have a question. I have now been to the range 6 times with my new 642, and although the groups are pretty good, all of them are to the right. I have Crimson Trace Laser Grips and shot from 10 feet up to 30feet with the same result. The gun is shooting to the right. What could be going on?
Thanks.

Ron

 

[jad0110]

fiVe,

I tried my 642's trigger. Their is actually a click even earlier in the pull. Very faint, it occurs as the tab slides down into the frame during the first moments of trigger pull. Click # 2 is the most obvious. Click 3 occurs so close to the firing pin letting go that if you go just a little too fast, the sound of the 3rd click overlaps with the loud clack of the firing pin. Definitely not as easy to stage the trigger for long distance shots as a K or L Frame Smith.

Compared to my K and L Frames, I'd say my 642's trigger is just as smooth, if noticeably heavier. The 642 pull feels a tad shorter, can anyone back up this observation?

RonJ,

Have you tried firing your 642 from a rest position at short range (7 yds or less). This would at least give you an idea if the laser is a little off, as you could compare POI with both the laser dot position on the target and the POA of the sights.

 

[308win]

RonJ - somewhere in this thread there is a diagnostic that tells you what you are doing that causes your shots to pull off of poa.