The Construction of a Range: Pt. 1

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the 22 junkie

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Part one of a three part series.

The title says it all, but for those of you who didn't bother to read it, I'll lay it out for you. Having been fed up with loud and uncomfortable indoor ranges, armchair commandos and morons at the outdoor ranges I frequent, and the blaring hot central texas sun, I have decided that I will be constructing a sheltered range at my farm sometime this summer with the help of friends and family, and would like some advice on it. This range *is not* I repeat *is not* going to be for long range target shooting or uber tacticool live fire drills, just plinking, so maybe 100 ft. at most. The firing line is probably going to be just a standard [sp?] wood and corrugated steel contraption, more just to keep us out of the sun than anything, maybe with the roof at about 8-9 ft. and a small counter to use a shooting rest running about 2/3 of the firing line under the sheltered area. The unsheltered area would be more of a speed draw area, as I wounld't want to shoot a hole in my brand new corrugated steel roof. Also thinking about maybe installing some drink holders and/or gun racks too. The whole firing line, unsheltered and sheltered areas both would run about 20-25 ft. As for floors, I think just well packed dirtwould do just fine, as concrete would cost way too much, could crack and cuase more headaches, and is just a richochet waiting to happen. The firing line would probably be raised a foot or two above the actual range itself. The Range itself would probably be out to 100 ft., maybe 125. Now here is where I face a dilema. I'm not sure wether I just want one back stop at 100 ft. or several other backstops closer in for closer ranges. Either that or I could just set the targets out at whatever ranges I want to shoot at and fire into the dirt, maybe mark the distances with different colored yardsticks or something like that. Anyways, the range would be sort of sunk into the ground (maybe 4-6 ft.?) so that there is less of a chance of a wild bullet flying off to the side and that all of our former bottles/milk jugs/microwaves/TV's/Bowling Pins/ would be contained and easier to clean up. The backstop would be probably constructed of loose dirt on packed dirt on old tires backed up by railroad ties, although the issue fo replacing these every (how long do you think said backstop could stand up against 200 rds every weekend or other) years comes to mind. I think about an 8 ft. backstop would be apropriate, especially if trees were able to take root.

And so that is my devious master plan, any questions/comments/flames/e-props would be welcome.

PS: This thing won't be done for a long time, considering that we have to wait for the new John Deere to come and get all the supplies ordrered and everything. Will update tomorrow with very crude hand drawn pictures and on sunday after the trip up thier (with measurements).
 
the range would be sort of sunk into the ground (maybe 4-6 ft.?)

If you're removing that depth of soil for 100+ feet, you should have more than enough to put lower berms on each side, and a good high berm at the end of the range. I'd say that a single large berm at the end would be more than enough to stop rounds fired at targets closer to the firing point.

Your biggest problem will be drainage from the sunken range. If the ground slopes to one side, it might be a good idea to level out the range "floor" and then put pipes through the side berm at regular intervals on the "downhill" side, so that rainwater can drain off. If the ground is level, you should probably not make the range sunken - otherwise after every shower, you'll have a shooting swimming-pool rather than a shooting range! :uhoh:

Also, why not consider taking the range out to a full 100 yards? That would give you a decent short-range rifle facility as well, and you could sight in slug shotguns.
 
you should probably not make the range sunken - otherwise after every shower, you'll have a shooting swimming-pool rather than a shooting range!

and what makes you think this isn't what he wanted??? we've all heard/read about the underwater glock shooting...

seriously...

how much room do you have to work w/ (how big is the area you can dedicate to the range - and what is the proximity of neighbors)?

i hear ya on public ranges... i haven't shot at one in many, many years, and don't miss 'em 'tall...
 
Think about raising the roof a little. When the sun heats that roof you'll feel like you're in an oven! The heat will raidiate downward and you'll think your brain is being cooked. Maybe some kind of insulation. If its open on all four sides maybe there will be enough air flow. Either way...you'll LOVE it!.
Mark.
 
If the property is rural enough, all you really need is a berm for the bullets to hit.

I made my own range in my backyard with two simple dump-trucks full of soft river-bottom dirt....no rocks at all in this stuff.

My range isn't covered. There is one very large shade tree as my protection from the sun.

I can get 40 yards out of my backyard range.

I've got another one planned that I can get 200 yards out of.

The only thing I before dumping the dirt was to make a wall of old tires.

Then, I had the dirt dumped atop the tire wall, and I used a shovel to fill up all the tires, and then pile the dirt on the firing-line side of the tire wall.

The tires provide a "skeleton" for the dirt to rest upon. Plus, all the dirt down in the tires makes for a rock-solid bullet stop.

I'd say make it safe, but tend towards the simple.

Get as much yardage as you can out of it.

And save money. Spend that cash on ammo instead.


Oh yeah. I shoot a lot. I also teach CCW classes.

My berm has soaked up, literally, tens of thousands of rounds since I built it. It's still holding up just fine.

I shoot everything from .22s up to a .58 caliber rifled musket into this berm.

hillbilly
 
The basic intent of a range design is to prevent wild fire leaving the range and a secondary intention is to prevent ricochets leaving the range. if you don't have 1800 metres down range, your backstop and side berms become very important.

Don't use tires as fill in the backstop, they present a ricochet hazard if they become exposed.

The angle of your backstop is important, a low sloping backstop presents a ricochet hazard so make it as close to vertical as possible for the strike zone. If there are houses or other structures down range from you, I suggest you build some sort of cover to use above hard targets, even plywood is usefull for this job.

I would try to take your backstop higher than eight feet, if you are back at 100 feet and you hold your gun at eye level, you will only need to elevate the gun a few degrees to be shooting over the backstop. 18 feet is a realistic height. If you are sinking your range six feet then another 12 feet above that at the rear will give you a good berm.

If you plan to shoot at targets on the ground at shorter distances, then small berms with timber covers to prevent ricochets are a good idea. If a reasonable height and set at close intervals, such mounds will also prevent an negligent discharge into the range floor from ricocheting out of the range.

Ricochets can go off at up to 45 degrees from the line of fire, so side berms are also a good idea.

http://www.miltemptech.com.au/ sells templates to Australian, Nato and English standards. These are map overlays that allow a weapons danger area/safety fan to be quickly worked out. The Australian pistol templates vary from the Nato templates in that they give an open elevation or maximum range template as well as a controlled elevation template.

http://www.pistolnz.org.nz/pdf/Police Ra...nual 2005.pdf
Hosted by Pistol New Zealand, this is an extract of the New Zealand Police range licencing manual.

http://www.pistolnz.org.nz/pdf/rdmsec01.pdf
http://www.pistolnz.org.nz/pdf/rdmsec02.pdf
http://www.pistolnz.org.nz/pdf/rdmsec03.pdf
Are extracts of the Pistol New Zealand range development documents. Incomplete but worthwhile. Includes data on rear and side berm construction.

http://www.1728.com/angles.htm an angle converter, for those confused by references to mils instead of degrees in templates.

http://www.gunsmithsociety.com/shootingranges.htm
Extracts from the English JSP 403 standard for range design. I recommend this one.

http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2002/DomnaAntoniadis.shtml

Table with maximum ranges of some popular calibres.

http://www.cpp.usmc.mil/base/safety/Pocket385-631.pdf

US Marine Corp range Safety Pocket Guide
 
hillbilly: The property is rural enough, as behind the berm we have about 2000 feet of timber, then a good sized field and lake after that. So, stray bullets directly downrange that miss the berm will not be a problem.

The area which I plan to build on is about a 2 acre field with an already existing bluff surrounded by oaks, The closest nieghbor is about a mile or so away across a nice big rye grass field (protected by yet more oaks). There is a shallow slope from the bluff heading down, and so I'm considering building into the bluff and intergrating it as part of the backstop.
 
Sand is a good medium for building a range. If you are concerned about recochets, you know the drill build your berm for the back. Build your ceiling at the berm to stop recochets using sandbags on the top double layered. Fairly vertical berms made out of hard dirt to the left and the right meeting the back berm ought to do it and you don't have to build them the entire length of the range, 20' should do.
 
Make sure your area isn't due for an influx of yuppies. We had a beautiful range on my parents' farm in NE Ohio. With the construction of a new school, the flood of suburbanite yuppies, and the hiring of six new deputies to patrol 3 roads..... the range was shut down. The worst part is that the chief of police and I used to shoot whistle pigs in her back yard.... But times change I suppose, and even the most die hard gunnies must bend to the majority.
1TheFarm.gif
 
Radagast said:
"Don't use tires as fill in the backstop, they present a ricochet hazard if they become exposed. "

I second this,as I have had a 45 ball come back at me from a truck tire sidewall.

I would also suggest any live trees be kept small and on the back side of the backstop as maybe erosion control,as I have had a large GA pine (probably a Loblolly pine) return one to sender also.

I've learned a few lessons about saftey since!

If you are using 2 acres that are inline downrange,I would stretch it on out to 100 yards if at all possible.That would leave you 100 feet for the backstop and the firing line to fit into.

Good luck with the range,I envy you at this point!
 
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