"This gun is harder to clean than that gun......etc."

[cslinger]

I have read many posts, most recently the post asking about AK advice that stated something along the lines of I don't like X firearm because it is harder to clean than Y firearm.

Now I can sort of see something like a Ruger Mark II/22/45 kind of thing since they are a bit of pain to breakdown and reassemble at first. I can even sort of see this with the good ole' 1911 as once again at first breakdown and reassembly can be a little tricky. Even these really don't take any more time to clean and are just a matter of getting used to breakdown and reassembly.

But as far as say AR15 vs. AK47. Assuming you actually clean the AK like I do I don't find it any more difficult then standard AR15 cleaning. Maybe if you break the AR bolt down after every session, I do not.

The same goes for the HK P7 series. These take me just as much time to clean as any other comparable auto chucker.

Heck when it's all said an done the biggest PITA to clean for me is the umbiquetous revolver. Too many holes and nooks and crannies, not to mention the cylinder face and top strap.

So my question is does anybody really find any mainstream firearm more difficult then another?

 

[larryw]

Ruger Mk II: breeze.

P7: no sweat (although as a southpaw, one must be careful not to disassemble it during firing)

Bull barrel'd 1911. Getting the spring, guiderod and link all lined up so you can insert the slide stop pin is almost enough to drive me to a Glock. :banghead:

 

[Chipperman]

"P7: no sweat (although as a southpaw, one must be careful not to disassemble it during firing)"

LOL!

That happened to me. I also am a Southpaw, and carry a P7. During a stessfire scenario, I had to shoot one round w/ no mag, then reload. The slide did not lock back b/c no mag was in. I popped the mag in, and racked the slide (using a strong overhand grip the "Proper Way"), and when I let go the slide shot forward about 10 yards into the lane.

The guys I was shooting with just about fell on the floor they were laughing so hard. I was laughing too, until I retrieved the slide and found that the rear site had been pushed out of place.

Now I'm more careful to be sure my index finger does not press the take down button.

 

[mfree]

*cough* Walther P22 gets my vote for WORST.

 

[rl2669]

Cleaning?

Easiest guns to clean are semi-autos with trivial breakdown - Glock, Sig to name a couple. Of course if you believe some of the folks on other forums, they don't even need frequent cleaning, but I do so anyway.

Hardest of mine are MKII, but I've got that one down pretty OK. Still don't like it though.

I'll agree that revolvers, esp stainless are nasty, I especially don't like having to use the lead removal cloth on the front of the cylinder face. But, it must be done!

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

I have read many posts, most recently the post asking about AK advice that stated something along the lines of I don't like X firearm because it is harder to clean than Y firearm.

I actually don't get why some consider the AR so difficult to clean either... I spend less than 15 minutes on mine after most range sessions and maybe 30 minutes for an extended detail cleaning a couple a times a year.

I wonder if part of that perception isn't from people who are trying to keep their AR spotless, white-glove clean instead of just functionally clean?

 

[Standing Wolf]

Heck when it's all said an done the biggest PITA to clean for me is the umbiquetous revolver.

Yep. I can clean a High Standard or my pre-agreement Smith & Wesson model 41 in half the time it takes to clean a revolver.

 

[Wildalaska]

HK G3 series guns.....uugggg

WilddisgustingAlaska

 

[PlayTheAces]

I view them all pretty much the same in terms of difficulty and time spent, even the dreaded MK II.

What I hate is removing burn rings from a blued cylinder. A lead away cloth makes it pretty simple with a stainless gun, but I pretty much limit myself to elbow grease on a blued cylinder.

Nobody seems to put elbow grease on sale anymore, either.

 

[sm]

Bartholomew Roberts-

A great point well stated!

 

[1911Ron]

umm you are supposed to clean them

 

[Destructo6]

HK G3 series guns.....uugggg

WilddisgustingAlaska

All of the roller guns get nasty filthy, but seem to work okay despite it. The 5.56mm guns are the worst (SL6).

Maybe I'm anal retentive about it, but (no pun intended) I find it takes much longer to clean my AR than my AK or even HK.

 

[WhoKnowsWho]

I wonder if part of that perception isn't from people who are trying to keep their AR spotless, white-glove clean instead of just functionally clean?

I used to try to keep all my stuff that clean. Clean enough to eat off of. But time grew shorter the more guns I picked up, so now, it is functionally clean, and a more complete cleaning every now and again.

 

[Billy Sparks]

My first forray into the world of 1911's was a Les Baer that I picked up at a gun show for a good price. That things was SO tight it took three hands to reassemble. I think that is one reason I was turned off by 1911's for so long.

WA, I agree the G3's are a pain to clean.

 

[shep854]

Pain of cleaning is the reason I have no plans to buy a 7 or more shot revolver.

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

What I hate is removing burn rings from a blued cylinder. A lead away cloth makes it pretty simple with a stainless gun, but I pretty much limit myself to elbow grease on a blued cylinder.

Try a product called "Carbon Cutter" from a company called SLIP 2000. This stuff is very effective on carbon build-up.

Caveat: You should use gloves with Carbon Cutter. It is non-toxic; but it will completely strip all the oils from your skin if you don't.

 

[Werewolf]

AR, AK, Semi-Auto pistols are all a piece of cake for me to clean - thoroughly and quickly. The easiest to clean weapon I own is a SXS Coach gun. Quick and easy break down and everything that needs cleaning is readily accessible. 10 minute job at most for the SXS.

OTOH I'm not a huge fan of the M-1 Garand when it comes to cleaning. I still haven't torn the thing down to the level it shows in the manual that the GI should do in the field. It generally gets a barrel cleaning and a wipe job on the reachable parts while still in the stock (I also grease the grease points I can get to). When the round count gets up around 1000 to 1500 I'll probably take it all the way down. Not looking forward to that.

I'm also not a huge fan of the Win M94 I've got when it comes to cleaning (though it is my absolute favorite rifle to shoot). Not being able to remove the bolt assembly without jumping thru major hoops is a major pain so it doesn't get done. Consequently all it gets is a barrel scrub, the bolt face cleaned and what ever else I can reach with a q-tip or brush. And I feel guilty because I know its not getting the care it needs and I've shot well over a 1000 rounds out of it.

 

[jsalcedo]

I realized I was doing more harm than good with detailed cleanings.

Now I boresnake, wipe the crud from the front of the bolt face and wipe the whole gun down with a silicone cloth impregnated with oils.

I only disassemble guns out of curiosity now.

 

[Ian]

I find my M1 to be really handy to clean. Pop out the trigger assembly, remove the stock, clean the bolt face, lugs, breechface, barrel, and chamber. Then regrease the necessary surfaces and reassemble.

The most obnoxious gun I have to clean is my 1860 Army BP clone. It's nice in that it cleans up with soap and water - but the cylinder is a huge pain because the chambers have closed ends.

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

I find my M1 to be really handy to clean. Pop out the trigger assembly, remove the stock, clean the bolt face, lugs, breechface, barrel, and chamber.

Just don't remove the ejector from the bolt without an empty .30-06 case handy to help you put it back in. That thing is a weapon in itself with the spring behind it...

 

[Dave R]

HK G3 series guns.....uugggg

What's so hard about cleaning a G3 series? I can clean my CETME in under 15 minutes (less bolt disassembly, which only happens every 1000 rounds or so at my house.)

-Punch out the stock pins & remove stock.
-Pop out the trigger assembly.
-Carefully remove the bolt & recoil spring assembly. If you drop the bolt and the rollers pop open, it may take more than 15 minutes to get back together...
-Clean the bore with the usual rod, brush & jag.
-Clean chamber flutes with a .45acp nylon brush, with a big patch around it.
-Clean the bolt. Toothbrush & dental pick for under the extractor.
-Wipe out the inside of the receiver. I can get the roller recesses with my finger and a cloth/patch. Someone with fat fingers may want a purpose-built chamber brush.
-Reassemble.

What's so hard about that?

 

[at-home-daddy]

My S&W 422 .22LR is *much* more difficult to both break down and clean than my Sigs or 1911...so, yes, among my collection there's definitely one that's more challenging than the others.

 

[rayra]

Non-issue, for me. They are what they are.
I usually take several firearms with me when I can make it to the range.
The post-shoot cleanup is usually a a big messy production anyway, with newsprint, latex gloves, safety glasses, liberal doses of CLP and bore cleaners, toothbrushes. Everything gets disassembled, everything gets cleaned. 'hard' or 'easy' never comes into it.

 

[entropy]

I do it for a second job, so I'v done quite a few &^$^*(& ones and some easier ones. I'm cleaning the cosmoline off my Yugo SKS as I type this. (Then I will clean the cosmoline off the keyboard! ) My favorites are generally ones I own or have owned, because I clean them enough to do it fast. AR's because I was an Armorer, (I like to clean 60's and M249's, too, but don't get much chance lately. ) 1911's, 870's 1100/11-87's, Marlin 336's, are all easy. Yes I hate taking down MkII's, too.
Worst one I've done lately is a Mossberg 353T .22 auto. :banghead:

 

[taliv]

HK G3 may be hard to clean, but put 300 rounds through the SL8-1 and you'll find it the only thing that even shows a hint of carbon is the bolt face and the barrel. definitely one of the easiest guns to clean