Thoughts on a S&W Model 49 Bodyguard modifications…

[Kerf]

I have this basically “beater” Model 49, .38Spl that I was thinking about having the cylinder cut to accept moon clips. That conversion is pretty cut and dried, makes a reload muy quick, and doesn’t hurt the gun muy mucho. Then I notice on the website (http://www.moonclips.com/) that he can cut the cylinder to accept 9mm w/ moonclips. Having had a recent 9mm epiphany (hat tip; and it does take an epiphany) and love affair with the 9mm in the form of a CZ 75B SAO, I think it would be neat to have the two guns I carry the most have the same cartridge. But then, why stop there. Why not go with a .38 Super re-chamber w/ moonclips in the 49? I’m not even sure a .38 Super will fit in a .38 Spl. chamber. At least it has a straight case wall.

So, the two concerns I have to resolve are: 1) Pressure and 2) Accuracy.

I know the 9mm/.38 Super are operating at a higher pressure level than the .38 Spl. But, I believe the Model 49 is rated for +P loading, I believe. I think I would be happy with a 9mm/.38 load that’s a tad hotter than a .38 Spl, and therefore, would be at a lower pressure. I have practiced with this gun a lot over the years and feel comfortable shooting it, so it’s not like I would need to shoot it a lot in practice. And, I could always load it down with light target type loads for practice.

My second concern, and probably more critical, is the accuracy issue. I have visions of a .355/.356” bullet rattling down an oversized bore and totally ruining the guns accuracy. I’m thinking of loading some 9mm bullets in 38 cases and testing the accuracy potential that way. Oversized cast bullets in the 9mm might also work depending on how the cylinder chambers measure out.

So, I’m looking for wisdom here; thoughts, enlightenment, past experience? Rants are okay, too. Tell me what you really think.

P.S. What got me thinking about this was another post about the Tyler T-grip and bannockburn posted a great photo of his 49 with the T-grip (which is what I have). http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=798415 Funny how your mind wanders and associates things.

Thanks in advance;

kerf

 

[fireman 9731]

Seems like for the cost of the conversion and all of the tools you could buy another gun, but whatever floats your boat.

 

[bannockburn]

Kerf

You should look into the Phillips and Rodgers Medusa Model 47 Multi-Caliber revolver. I think it was capable of firing just about anything in the .380/.38/.357/9mm. range of ammunition.

 

[PapaG]

My 49 is not rated plus p. Is yours so marked?

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Just a note, just because a revolver isn't marked +P doesn't mean it's not capable. If the revolver was produced before SAAMI created the designation it won't be marked +P because there was no such thing.

S&W has clearly stated any all steel revolver with a model number is capable of safely firing so called+P ammo. (1957 on)

 

[Radagast]

18500 psi vs 35000 psi. I wouldn't do it unless there is never factory ammo in the house and I never ever lent a gun at the range.
If you do go ahead then .38 S&W load data may help. The cases are similar.

 

[Jim Watson]

Mark at Pinnacle will rechamber and clip cut a J frame to 9mm.
He says it will likely stick Specials in the tapered chamber, so it is not really a convertible unless you buy a new cylinder.
He will only do the 9mm P, .38 Super, 9x23 conversion on an L frame.
http://pinnaclehighperformance.com/cylinder-work/

TK also does clip conversions and rechambering.
http://www.tkcustom.com/content/machine.asp

I wouldn't worry about the allegedly undersize bullets. There are a lot of 9mm barrels out there as large as .358" and they do OK.

It isn't cheap.

 

[Kerf]

Thanks everyone for the information...

I was trying to locate Pinnacle website, it was in the back of my mind, but couldn't remember the name.

I think what I'm going to do is, have them cut two of my cylinders for moonclips, which is a no brainer. And, then I'm going to have an extra cylinder made up for the Mod 49 in 9mm. At least that way, I can always return the gun to factory condition.

Just so you know, I did load some 9mm bullets into .38 Spl cases just to test for accuracy. I did a mild load first to see if everything went well; and then a bit hotter load to see what near normal pressure would look like. They both went well and the accuracy did improve with the slightly hotter load. Anyway, thanks again for your help.

kerf

 

[WardenWolf]

The Model 49 is a steel-framed version of the aluminum Model 38. I inquired with S&W about +P in a K-Frame 1955 M&P pistol (a much stronger gun), and they said they do not recommend it. Therefore I do not recommend +P or .38 Super with this gun. It won't blow it up, at least not immediately, but it's a bad idea.

The only modifications I can recommend are a Hogue boot grip and perhaps a different hammer spring. The boot grip, in particular, will make it a much better gun. It eliminates the pain of recoil, and gets your hand off the backstrap so the hammer doesn't bite your hand when you pull the trigger.

 

[GRIZ22]

Converting a J frame 38spl to 9mm is making a grenade that's going to go off someday IMO. If you want to convert a J frame to 9mm I think you're best starting out with one rated for 357 magnum.

 

[WardenWolf]

+1 Griz. Particularly these older ones. You're best starting out with a .357 like a Ruger SP101. At least the Rugers can take it.

 

[amd6547]

I would shoot +P all day long in a 1955 K frame.
My own is a 1957, made about the time they started putting model numbers on them, yet it has no model number. It's loaded with +P right now.

 

[WardenWolf]

I would shoot +P all day long in a 1955 K frame.
My own is a 1957, made about the time they started putting model numbers on them, yet it has no model number. It's loaded with +P right now.

Yes, well, considering this particular revolver has the best trigger I've ever felt besides high-end 686's, I'm not going to abuse it. It's got the wider target trigger, and the single action is basically a hair trigger release.

 

[Kerf]

I think I have to defer...

I think I have to defer to GRIZ22 in this matter – even though it can be “made to work”, spare cylinder, reloading specific to the gun, etc – why leave a grenade lying around for future generations to pull the pin on? Also, I really shouldn’t muck up a perfectly good S&W, regardless of how much of a “beater” it is to me. So, I think I’ll enjoy my Bodyguard with the moon clipped and mild, heavy for caliber .38 Spls and as WardenWolf mentioned, start looking for a Ruger SP101 with 3” barrel, 5 shot. They’re brand new dirt cheap, built like a tank, and I won’t suffer pangs of guilt later for having destroyed a heirloom. Soon, I’ll be the only guy on the block with a .38 Super, 5 shot.

Thanks everyone for the slap upside head and getting my head screwed on straight – much appreciated.

kerf

 

[CraigC]

I'd be real leery of such a conversion. Huge difference between .38Spl +P and 9mm at 35,000psi.

 

[Jim NE]

.38 Special to 9mm....Aren't there guns out there that are built like that at the factory? I could definitely see a conversion like that potentially changing a gun enough to alter it's likable characteristics.

If someone wants a different caliber revolver, it makes more sense to me to buy a different caliber revolver rather than turn an existing gun into something it isn't. Older J frames might handle a 9mm, but I don't know about a .38 Super.

 

[WardenWolf]

Good choice, Kerf. You'll also find the Ruger to have a much better trigger. Those old J-Frames had a really awful trigger pull, largely because S&W's reliance on standard frame designs hampered innovation by locking them into a particular form factor.