Thread adapter converters for suppressors? Is it safe?

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I recently purchased a CGS Hyperion Suppressor in 7.62. My plan is to use this on 5 different rifles. I have a 17hmr that has a 1/2 x 20 threading, A browning X bolt 7 mm-08 with a M 13 x 1.25 threading, a Christiansen arms Mesa with a 1/2 x 28 threading, a Winchester model 70 in .270 that’s not yet threaded, and a PSA AR that already comes with a 5/8 x 24 threading. CGS makes a 5/8 x 24 braked adapter which is supposed to make “optimal concentricity and retention” with the shallow tapered joints of the Hyperion's threading connection. I would like to use these adapters with each of the before mentioned rifles.

My question is: To get to the 5/8 x 24 threading for these adapters, I will need to add a thread adapter converter to the original rifle threading. My fear is that the tolerance of the threading of the initial thread converter might throw this off and I could ruin my suppressor.

The company that I’ve been looking at for these thread adapter converters is Hughes Precision. Has anyone heard of them? What do you guys think about what I’m trying to accomplish here? I spoke to a gunsmith about converting my Christiansen arms Mesa to 5/8 x 24 from 1/2 x 28, and he said that the barrel contour is too thin to convert, and that I would need to use a thread adapter converter. I’m having him look at a Winchester model 70 to thread it, but he said the same thing may happen depending on the barrel’s thickness; he may not be able to get 5/8 x 24 threading on it, and may have to use an adapter, I’ll just have to wait and see. Long story short, do you guys see an issue with using a thread adapter converter, then using the CGS braked adapter to then install the suppressor on these rifles? Should I lock them in with blue loctite? What company do you guys use for thread Adapter converters that you trust are machined concentric? Last question, do you see an issue shooting a 17hmr through a 30 caliber suppressor?
 
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I emailed CGS and they stated:

"you might find a thread adapter from a reputable company that can make concentric thread adapters which has a shoulder diameter of .735” or greater but that’d probably require some calling around and ideally you’d want one in which wrench flats aren’t cut into the shouldering surface. For whatever reason, rifle companies making lightweight profile barrels don’t understand that muzzle shoulders exist or that they could just bump up the barrel profile right before the threads begin."

Point being they apparently don't see an issue, but said "reputable company that can make concentric thread adapters"....

I'm wondering if Hughes Precision will work?

https://hughesprecision.com
 
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I do this alot....but this is another question id direct towards @MachIVshooter
I really don't like the idea of the converter, then the adapter, then the suppressor. That's a lot of threading. If I end up having to do that, do you think I should loctite the converter and the adapter? I won't be removing those, I'll just swap the suppressor to whatever.
 
I really don't like the idea of the converter, then the adapter, then the suppressor. That's a lot of threading. If I end up having to do that, do you think I should loctite the converter and the adapter? I won't be removing those, I'll just swap the suppressor to whatever.
That many different connections would make me leery but they're probably fine as long as the machine properly and will fitted...
 
A lot of tolerance stacking going on there, and you are looking at doing it on several different platforms. I see it going wrong sooner or later, especially on a semi auto which people tend to fire faster and will get hot (not sure the heat matters though, may help here).

If you do go that way buy some check rods. However, I think I would look about getting things re-threaded if at all possible. Given the cost of the adapters, converters, can, stamps, etc doing it right from the go is the best plan in my mind. Yes, sort of sucks but I think will pay off in the long run before something comes loose and you have to send the can back for a strike.
 
Extra layers of tolerances to stack isn’t a good idea. If the can is a 7.62 can, the absolute biggest thing I would shoot through it with a thread adapter on is a 7mm. It’s not a whole lot of wiggle room but it’s enough to give peace of mind. Can strikes and baffle strikes do damage that may take $200 and a few months of waiting to fix on top of the cost of repairs.
 
A lot of tolerance stacking going on there, and you are looking at doing it on several different platforms. I see it going wrong sooner or later, especially on a semi auto which people tend to fire faster and will get hot (not sure the heat matters though, may help here).

If you do go that way buy some check rods. However, I think I would look about getting things re-threaded if at all possible. Given the cost of the adapters, converters, can, stamps, etc doing it right from the go is the best plan in my mind. Yes, sort of sucks but I think will pay off in the long run before something comes loose and you have to send the can back for a strike.
The semi-auto is the only one that is already threaded with a 5/8 x 24
 
I don't get it. What did I not acknowledge and disregard?

A >400 word answer to your questions in a PM last month that you never responded to, which included advising that you consider mounting options. Most people would have at least taken a few seconds to say "OK. thanks", and you clearly didn't consider that you have multiple hosts which won't be directly compatible with a fixed 5/8-24 DT can, even though I said in that message:

....mounting systems are something to consider. Most of the industry has moved to 1.375-24 Bravo pattern threads in rifle cans so you can choose from multiple mounting systems and change them at will, from ~1 ounce titanium direct thread adapters to heavier QD systems, or taper mounts that are in between weight-wise and have the benefit of a muzzle brake inside the can as well as better repeatability, better retention and faster installation than direct thread...[snip]...incompatibility with other mounting systems is something to keep in mind.



I'm happy to share everything I know freely, but I get salty when the time I take to do so is unappreciated.
 
My question is: To get to the 5/8 x 24 threading for these adapters, I will need to add a thread adapter converter to the original rifle threading. My fear is that the tolerance of the threading of the initial thread converter might throw this off and I could ruin my suppressor.

If I had that fear, I would machine the OD of the adapter to thread into the suppressor. Then I would indicate the suppressor and machine/thread the ID of the adapter after it is installed. This way I don’t have the “stack” of the two tolerance’s. Doesn’t matter if a blind kid machined the first one as I am indicated off the bore for the ones I made.
 
A >400 word answer to your questions in a PM last month that you never responded to, which included advising that you consider mounting options. Most people would have at least taken a few seconds to say "OK. thanks", and you clearly didn't consider that you have multiple hosts which won't be directly compatible with a fixed 5/8-24 DT can, even though I said in that message:

....mounting systems are something to consider. Most of the industry has moved to 1.375-24 Bravo pattern threads in rifle cans so you can choose from multiple mounting systems and change them at will, from ~1 ounce titanium direct thread adapters to heavier QD systems, or taper mounts that are in between weight-wise and have the benefit of a muzzle brake inside the can as well as better repeatability, better retention and faster installation than direct thread...[snip]...incompatibility with other mounting systems is something to keep in mind.



I'm happy to share everything I know freely, but I get salty when the time I take to do so is unappreciated.

My apologies. I absolutely thought I responded to that. That was around Christmas, and I was having hearing issues, and just a lot going on. Thanks for the info that you gave. I truly did my best to look into everything that you mentioned in that conversation, but I'm pretty inexperienced with suppressors, clearly. A lot of what you said went over my head. I'm just trying to get this all figured out. As you know, the reason for the suppressor is because I blew my left ear out in late November. If that hadn't happened, we probably wouldn't be having this conversation.
 
As you know, the reason for the suppressor is because I blew my left ear out in late November. If that hadn't happened, we probably wouldn't be having this conversation.

Funny how it’s only “cool” to hurt your body until you do.

I still remember my Father yelling at me for using his welding gloves. I didn’t understand at the time that burning them on hot metal made them hard and caused them to have even less dexterity but I will never forget him saying “Those cost $5, your skin will grow back.”

We didn’t have special seats for kids or bicycle helmets back then either.
 
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