Ti Cylinders - Any issues?
- Thread starter GaryP
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I am aware of two Ti-cylindered Taurus revolvers that had the cylinder face chewed by by something after firing a limited number of VERY hot .357 Magnum cartridges, which in my opinion wasn't a bright thing too do. Neither gun had any obvious mechanical problems such as endshake or excessive cylinder/barrel gap. When "ranged" with a gauge all of the chambers were found to be correctly alligned.
I also believe that S&W recommends not using a conventional bore brush to clean the chambers.
I also believe that S&W recommends not using a conventional bore brush to clean the chambers.
mete:
I'm aware that the cylinders (and other parts also) are coated, but these were both brand new revolvers. One only had 5 out of 7 chambers that had been fired during the first and only cylinder full. I estimate the other, which was far more damaged, had a round count under 25. The latter gun is back to Taurus for examination and repair.
Yes, by all means do follow the manufacturer's instructions when cleaning/servicing any firearm. But special situations should be noted for purposes of evaluation of a particular material.
I'm aware that the cylinders (and other parts also) are coated, but these were both brand new revolvers. One only had 5 out of 7 chambers that had been fired during the first and only cylinder full. I estimate the other, which was far more damaged, had a round count under 25. The latter gun is back to Taurus for examination and repair.
Yes, by all means do follow the manufacturer's instructions when cleaning/servicing any firearm. But special situations should be noted for purposes of evaluation of a particular material.
Stainz
Member
Several years ago, I called S&W about my then new 296 (2.5" hammerless 5-shot .44 Special with an Al frame and Ti cylinder). I was told that lead was not advised due to bullet creep, but have since learned that lead contaminants on the cylinder face may require more aggressive cleaning, another possible problem. I was also cautioned to keep the cylinder chamber's full - ie, no .44 Russians - again, due to the otherwise need for more aggressive cleaning. Cleaning with Hoppes and a brass/bronze chamber brush is fine - just allow plenty of time for the solvent to work, thus requiring less mechanical (and abrasive) work. I use an M16-style nylon brush and Hoppes on the cylinder bore exits... certainly hide the 'Lead-free' cloths! Also, avoid bulging/split cases - the Ti can be scored or nicked, which can propagate. I quit using the Blazer 200gr GD's in my 296 after one of their brethren split it's Al case in my SS 696... use brass!
Yeah, SS/carbon steel is a far better - and less tempermental - cylinder material.
Stainz
Yeah, SS/carbon steel is a far better - and less tempermental - cylinder material.
Stainz
HankB
Member
I recently bought a 340SC. The instructions warned against using excessively aggressive chemicals on the cylinder, and went on to say words to the effect of "if you wouldn't use it on your car, don't use it on your revolver." 
I emailed a question to S&W about cleaning the cylinder, asking about the use of various cleaners like Hoppe's #9 and Break Free CLP. In the response, S&W never addressed these specific products, but they said the best thing to use on the Ti cylinder is a product called "nevr-dull" which I gather is available at hardware stores. (The nevrdull website has an MSDS which lists "mineral spirits" as the only hazardous ingredient.)
S&W also told me that a conventional bronze brush is fine.
I emailed a question to S&W about cleaning the cylinder, asking about the use of various cleaners like Hoppe's #9 and Break Free CLP. In the response, S&W never addressed these specific products,
but they said the best thing to use on the Ti cylinder is a product called "nevr-dull" which I gather is available at hardware stores. (The nevrdull website has an MSDS which lists "mineral spirits" as the only hazardous ingredient.)S&W also told me that a conventional bronze brush is fine.
SouthpawShootr
Member
I'm amazed they recommended this. It's available in the automotive department of Wal-Mart. It did a wonderful job on the stainless steel exhaust pipes on my mustang. Polished them right up. Never used it on a gun, however, it is recommended for removing the blued (black, probably painted) finish on Romanian AK bolt carriers. I certainly would have second thoughts about using this on coated titanium parts.
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